Wednesday morning (19th February) we were up early, packed up the car and left our little cottage behind. We drove towards the ferry terminal and arrived early enough to get the ferry before the one we were scheduled to be sailing on. I went inside to talk to the check in desk and they said we were welcome to join if we wanted to – however, they wouldn’t recommend it, as they had just loaded a lorry full of cows on board. In bad weather it wasn’t unknown for cars to be splattered as the cows reacted to their confinement in a ‘rolling’ truck. Hmmmm….our hire car was already filthy from all the dust on the Kangaroo Island’s unmade roads….didn’t fancy that! So we declined to join and waited it out keeping our place at the start of the queue for the next sailing.

Our next destination was Hindmarsh Island where Lester and Helen had settled since leaving the Gold Coast where we had met them. They had had an Island Packet too and we were (allegedly LOL) the inspiration for them to sell their boat SV Joule, as they had seen how well we had done in the Covid market when Australians were after anything that would let them go walkabout particularly boats and caravans in response to the restrictions. Their move to Hindmarsh – which is an inland river island located in the lower Murray River near the town of Goolwa, South Australia – is very close to where Helen had grown up so the huge move was also partially for family reasons as her mother had had some health concerns over the last few years. We were very excited to see our friends again especially in their new home and eagerly boarded the ferry and took off towards the mainland. We docked on time and drove towards the island and across the bridge. We located and drove down their street but couldn’t spot their house number – suddenly Richard spotted Lester in the road behind us – we had driven right past LOL.

We quickly got our luggage indoors, made ourselves comfortable in the guest bedroom, and then headed down the Murray River on their motorboat Romanza where we had a glass of bubbles and some nibbles. Lovely!

We then returned to their beautiful home for dinner – at which point Helen and I went indoors and the boys disappeared. Helen said they were probably next door so I popped out into the garden and yes, there they were, both sitting in the cockpit of the neighbour’s small Beneteau. Warned them dinner was almost ready and, eventually, they returned so we had a fantastic meal, sat and watched some TV, and then to bed. Had been a lovely day.

Thursday morning we headed to the Goolwa Barrage – this is a 10 minute drive from the town of Goolwa around 80 kms south of Adelaide. It separates the fresh water flowing down the Murray river from the salt water of the Coorong. It is the last of a series of locks and barrages that control the flow of the Murray River along its entire length. They were originally intended to make the river more navigable for the elegant paddle steamers that once plied these waters carrying essential goods. A row of statuesque Norfolk Pines lines the roadway to the barrage and as we reach the barrage we are greeted by a variety of wildlife around the first section which leads out into the river. There were great cormorants, NZ fur seals basking and fishing in the muddy water before resting up on the barrage itself for a rest (don’t know how they get into the positions they ferociously defend) and a view of my personal favourite the Australian Pelican. So much more beautiful than the brown pelicans we are used to seeing in the Caribbean. This largely white bird with black wings just seems bigger and more majestic somehow…..

We then moved on with a drive into the Barossa Valley. We stopped for coffee in Balhannah (in the Adelaide Hills) along the way and then headed towards Gumeracha where we saw the Big Rocking Horse….not sure why the Australians have to have “big” things everywhere but as they then become tourist attractions over time can see the long-term benefit!

Then onwards to Tanunda where we had a lovely lunch in the Bakery. We also stopped at the Whispering Wall in Williams Town – amazing feat of engineering building a curved dam wall that, when you speak to each other from either end, it sounds like the person is standing next to you! Had lots of fun with that….

We then went to a couple of wineries – the first one being a very commercial Penfolds and finishing up at Rockford – smaller with old fashioned methodology. We enjoyed the cellar door tastings and, having purchased a few bottles here and there, we headed back to Hindmarsh for dinner. Lovely day!

On Friday first thing Richard tried his hand at radio controlled sailing. This is something that Lester has newly introduced to the island and there is now quite a gang of them who race regularly! I declined as I really have no hand to eye coordination LOL.

Peter and Carol came over and we went up the river on Romanza to Clayton Bay for lunch at Pier 28. A jolly time it was too…. Always nice to make new friends. Everyone had a go at driving the boat and trying out Lester’s silly captain’s hat LOL.

On return to the house we chilled for the rest of the afternoon before getting ready to head out to Goolwa for the evening where we were going to a quiz night which was a fundraiser for the community shed that Lester attends. The team consisted of us, Lester & Helen, Peter & Carol, Frances & Geoffrey and George & Di. Lots of Australian specific questions so we were rubbish at them and because the team was so large the lady scribing often chose an alternative suggestion to our preferred answer….as a consequence we came third overall but, had she chosen some of our responses, we could have improved upon that LOL. Lester was also somewhat distracted by the yacht racing going on in the bay – a weekly event that he usually takes part in on his neighbours Beneteau….

Saturday morning we went into Goolwa and visited the historic Oscar W which is a unique 1908 wood-fired heritage Paddle Steamer. Lester is heavily involved in this vessel being part of the crew and Helen is currently treasurer of the charity so we had a private viewing! This project definitely keeps them busy…. Beautiful old craft which takes paying guests periodically for a cruise along the Lower Murray River.

We then headed off for a trip aboard the Steam Ranger Heritage Railway towards Victor Harbour – was quite excited about the idea of going on a steam train but, unfortunately, the trains were cancelled due to the fire risk – the temperature was above 38 degrees Celsius and there has been no rain for months. So we drove to Victor Harbour instead and dropped Helen off as she had an important opticians appointment. We then drove up to the Bluff for some scenery pictures before returning to get a horse drawn carriage over to Granite Island. We chatted to Albert – the large Clydesdale horse who was shackled up ready to go. The people running this service said this would be the last run over as the heat was too much for the horses…. So we waved Albert off and went to chat to Scottie, who was being lazy, and came with a warning that he bites! Lester chatted to him and he clearly wanted to bite him LOL.

Anyway by now Helen was free again so we went to pick her up and travelled onwards to the McLaren Vale where we visited the D’Arenburg Cube which is Salvador Dali inspired and where many exhibits were signed and certified as originals from the Dali stable. The most expensive statue was only Australian $1.95 mn plus sales tax (10%) plus delivery….. Was interesting looking through all the exhibits – not sure our garden / house or pockets were sufficient to warrant a purchase LOL. Some of the exhibits were just plain weird to be honest.

D’Arenburg is actually a winery so after looking around the exhibits we headed to the top floor for a wine tasting. All the white offerings were a bit sweet for our palate but was a fun experience anyway.

After we finished the tasting we drove back to the mouth of the Murray River which was fascinating. We then had dinner at home before retiring to bed after a long day. The temperature had certainly started to drop when the sun when down.

Sunday we headed to the Warrawonga Wildlife Sanctuary which is owned by Lester’s old school friend David (Cobbold). They had recently reconnected via social media.

We fed kangaroos / emus / checked out the ducks and turtles but sadly saw no platypus. Then it was time for our koala adventure…we all went into the enclosure with two rangers and, it was so cute, one of the smaller ones just reached up for the guy and climbed straight into his arms for a cuddle. Apparently this koala loves anyone dressed in khaki LOL. These koalas really seemed to enjoy the human interaction and we had lots of petting time – usually they give you a side look to say ‘hey, I’m tired, let me sleep’…. These were the friendliest koalas we had ever met and the most rewarding adventure.

Sadly leaving the koalas behind we continued wandering around the park and visited the dingos and, again, were mugged by the kangaroos for food. Richard even had the emus eating out of his hand…. I’m a little nervous around them as they have huge claws and a fast turn of speed…. Then we spotted a couple of little fellows – we think they looked like rock wallabies – some cockatoos, snakes and lazy lizards – called sleepy lizards and some blue tongues. All very strange looking creatures.

Moving on we headed to Hahndorf which is a German artisan village settled in 1839 by Prussian Lutherans seeking religious freedom.

We checked out the cuckoo clocks, the nutcrackers, the scented candles and a variety of other items, especially Xmas decorations. We, however, decided not to buy anything.

We stopped for a snack – I had a pretzel which was pretty good – and then we returned to the house. We had a rest up before getting ready to go out for dinner at the Chiton Rocks Surf Lifesaving Club. We saw an amazing sunset on our departure before heading home to bed.

Monday morning we said our sad farewells to Lester and Helen again – it had been a very special reunion and we were so very grateful to them for their amazing hospitality in their beautiful home and for showing us around the area. They are definitely living the dream!

And so the next chapter of this adventure beckoned….the Great Ocean Road to Melbourne. Very excited about this. Bye for now, come back soon, Jan