Thursday night we met Charlie and Saundra as planned and walked down the road to the Sunset Grill.    The food was great, the ambience lovely, and the company were on form – fun time had by all!

Friday morning we were up early but bad weather had arrived during the night — William came to tell us that the Port Capitan had put out a severe weather warning for all boats under 40 feet because of the large waves out in the Yucatan channel.   So the only diving option was into the park again – we decided instead to postpone for another day.  As we were up early anyway, we headed into the marina for a fantastic breakfast before walking up the road to the supermarket.

Laden with fresh crusty bread, it is so good we really can’t resist, we arrived back and stowed our purchases.   I had a lazy day on the boat – not feeling too good to be honest – while Richard started to tackle a sewing job.   Our Lifesling currently sits on the rail under dink – which would make it pretty difficult to deploy.  

We’ve decided to move it to the port rail but, of course, our new dodgers cover this so will need to be adapted to accommodate it.    The weather cleared up a bit later and I was feeling a bit better so we went to the pool for a swim before heading back to Morphie for an early night, after a spectacular sunset.

Saturday morning and Richard continued with the Lifesling…..while I did some cleaning, stripping beds etc……

We were constantly being thrown around by the wakes of the large number of boat movements – some big motor yachts have arrived and there are the huge tourist catamaran booze cruises regaling us with their taste of music as they go on by….  

Richard finished his project and we installed the Lifesling in its new position – excellent job.  Well done!   We can use it now – although, of course, we hope that we never have to. We lazed around in the afternoon reading books and doing some more research on future destinations.    We have to clear out of Mexico but all the ports that can supply this service are quite a long way north – meaning that our original plan of meandering down the coast towards Belize doing small hops as and when the mood takes us is not a (legal) option.   Having to make a run for it – after clearing out – would take us between the mainland and the massive offshore reefs at night – and we know that these reefs are not accurately marked on the charts.  And then there is the added complication of getting to the cut through the reef at the top end of Belize in daylight hours….  So we’re thinking of doing an offshore 300+ mile passage to the Bay Islands instead.  These islands lay off the coast of Honduras – and we particularly want to dive in Roatan.   That would put us in the area at almost the right time (fingers crossed) to get in the water with whale sharks….so the idea really appeals.   And the sail back to the bottom part of Belize would then become a downwind run if the trades come from the east.    We’ve not yet decided – but will keep you posted!

Sunday we were up early and cleaned Morphie thoroughly down below – the humidity is picking up here so we need to keep on our toes to prevent mould appearing….    Later on I prepared some appetizers as Charlie and Saundra were coming on board for sundowners.    Had another great evening……and, of course, I forgot to take any photos!

Monday morning and we had a lazy start, dropped dink down from his davits, and took him for a run up the channel into the lagoon.   We enjoyed the sights of the fishing village and the very small marinas all overflowing with boats – not to mention the broken docks and the big boys marina at the end!   We wanted to go ashore at one of the small local hostelries that line the water front but actually couldn’t find anywhere to get out of the boat – with day tripper boats rafted up to drop off their guests everywhere.   

So we came back – a bit disappointed – and spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool before a quiet evening on board.

Tuesday morning we were up very early as we were going diving at 8.30.    The boat was there….we were there….our gear was there….but the other divers weren’t.   We were going to have to share William with another two divers today rather than have the boat to ourselves – but both were experienced so we could still head out to do some ‘adventure’ dives.  We took off finally about 9.15 and headed out across the channel.  During the trip out to the dive site one of the guys was sea sick – good job it wasn’t that bad a day in terms of the waves…..    We all kitted up – jumped in – and William is telling us all to stop.   Well there had been a miscommunication on the boat – William planned to jump in, check the strength and direction of the current, to make sure we dropped in the right spot for the drift dive.   But we were all instructed to jump in!   So we did – and we then all had to get back out again.  Oops……   So William resorted to sticking his head in the water over the side to check our position before we all went in again.   

We descended to the bottom and Richard has a free flowing spare regulator – great, we’ve just had these serviced in Florida!   It wouldn’t stop so he is losing air but it should be OK…….   The visibility is poor and the water is cold with numerous thermoclines changing the temperature quite significantly.     Never mind – we drifted along – and enjoyed the sights, particularly the turtle who was so busy munching he couldn’t even be bothered to look up to check us out!

Back on board and the guy is still being sick – so we scrap the idea of going to the far point of the island for another drift dive – and return to the marine park for a shallow dive where the water is calmer.    Again the visibility wasn’t as good as before and the water was chilly – and this time Richard’s pressure gauge failed!   So he was leaking air through his regulators and now his air drops from half a tank to virtually empty….   Luckily we had almost finished our diving bottom time so we started a slow ascent and Richard and I buddy breathed on my tank just to make sure.     Damn….looking like we’ll have to try and source another gauge on our travels…and he’ll have to rent regulators in the meantime.  Not the best diving experiences today.

Back to Morphie and we had a lazy few hours before heading to the bar to meet Hank and Mike – we had planned a pub crawl.   We all met up and hopped into a cab – first stop was the bar where we watched all the locals having fun – before heading into the more tourist area and stopped at El Patio for a bite to eat and to watch the band – obviously fans of Led Zeppelin and Deep Purple – and quite amazing adaptions of their tunes.   Moving on we then listened to an acoustic set before ending up in the salsa bar wearing silly hats and a bit of dancing.   

Great evening – back to the marina suitably hydrated LOL!

This morning – Wednesday – and Richard is chilling while I’m blogging.  We’re planning on playing boules later – so should be fun.   We think we are going to be diving again on Thursday but watching the weather…..as another front is due to come through. 

Bye for now

Jan

Saturday afternoon we went to the bar for sundowners and came back to Morphie for dinner.   As I was down below cooking Mike went by on his dinghy so Richard invited him on board for an impromptu evening…..was good fun!

During the night the winds picked up – as forecast – and we were rolling around even tied to the pilings….    Sunday morning and the winds continued to howl – we did a few boat jobs and checked our lines / fenders and listened to the early morning cruisers net with its reports of boats dragging and going bump in the night.   Glad we are tucked up here in Marina Paraiso.

Later on we went to visit Island Sol – our Island Packet neighbours.   These very generous people are giving us loads of information about diving in Roatan and some detailed waypoints for when we head off.    Well – as we were sitting and chatting – the heavens opened and we had a horrendous thunderstorm.    I got caught out as I’d just popped ashore to phone Mum so while I was soaked through I checked all the lines on both our boats….   We ended up spending the afternoon with Charlie and Saundra and had a lot of fun (and drinks)!

Sunday night we ended up having a quiet one on board……having watched a spectacular stormy sunset.

Monday morning we were up early – we planned to go into Cancun – but, when we got online over breakfast we realised that it was a public holiday in Mexico.   So, although the big stores will be open the smaller chandleries will not be……   Hmmmm…..we’re heading off to investigate whether we can buy ablative antifoul as we’ve been told that it is possible to get this in Guatemala but it is very expensive.  We didn’t buy it before we left the States as we thought we were going to be in Panama where this stuff is readily available – but changed plans mean we need to source this if we can before we haul now.  So we decided not to go to Cancun today after all – and, as the weather was so nasty, we just vegged out on board. 

Tuesday morning and we were up early again…..and headed off to the fast ferry terminal.  We got our tickets and enjoyed the views of the island sitting upstairs, where we were surprised to find a guy playing live music for us.  He was quite entertaining and pretty good with his renditions from Guns & Roses and the Eagles.   Was a pretty fast trip and we admired the views of the hotel district along the way.

Arriving into Cancun we walked away from all the taxis at the ferry terminal as they are very expensive.    It is much cheaper to flag one down on the main road so that’s what we did.    We first went to Walmart and got everything on our list – primarily oil – of the transmission / engine and outboard / generator variety.    Packed everything into our wheelie bag and got a taxi back to the chandleries.    Well, they have no bottom paint apart from Seahawk Island 44 which is not legal down under so scratch that idea for now then!  

We went back to the terminal and were surprised to see the queues – we didn’t actually make the next ferry that came in, having to wait for the second, which was absolutely rammed.   Again we sat upstairs and had another guy playing music – but he wasn’t very good!  

Back to Isla Mujeres and we got a taxi back to the marina and back to Morphie to stow all our goodies….not a completely failed trip!    And that is where we stayed for the rest of the day.

Wednesday morning and we were up early and on the dive boat by 8.30.    The first dive was a drift dive – across an interesting bottom with lots of vegetation and huge sponges with the occasional sandy patch and shelf.  And as I’m going across the top of a shelf all of a sudden a large shark comes out from underneath me – not sure who was more surprised him or me LOL!    Another superman dive again and we were going along at about two knots.  Great dive.

Second dive of the day was on the Canyons – fantastic dive and our favourite of them all so far.   Interesting topography and lots to see – including some eagle rays, some large specimens and a school of big barracuda – not to mention the sunfish….and the large groupers and schools off fish out there in the blue……   Totally amazing!

Back on board we had a rest before going bobbing in the pool for a while before getting cleaned up and heading down into town for the evening. 

We went on a mini-pub crawl looking for live music and ended up visiting three venues and had a great time including a simple but tasty supper of fish tacos and chicken fajitas.   We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

This morning – Thursday – and we’re being lazy.  We’re going out for dinner tonight with Charlie and Saundra, so looking forward to that.    Friday we’re off diving again …   In the meantime, we’d like to wish all our family and friends a very Happy Easter!

Bye for now

Jan

Tuesday afternoon we relaxed by the pool before enjoying an early night on board.

Wednesday morning we were up ready to go diving just after eight. Sadly the dive boat was late again…..but we did manage to get underway by about nine…and we were pleased that there were only four divers on board too. We headed out towards Cancun’s hotel district and were looking for a buoy which marks one of the many deliberately-sunk wrecks along this coast. The seas were pretty big and the boat was crashing into the waves…..and one of the divers was struggling with seasickness…. Although at the right GPS co-ordinates we couldn’t find the mooring ball, and the conclusion was that it had been stolen overnight – apparently this is a frequent occurrence!

Anyway….moving on….and we came to another marker, quickly got ourselves ready and jumped into a very fast moving current. We submerged to the ocean floor (about 85 feet) and literally had to propel ourselves along the sandy bottom to get to the wreck as it was too hard to kick into the current. But we were rewarded for our efforts by the lovely sight of eagle rays floating along. We also saw a reasonable sized nurse shark and a sting ray lurking under the ship’s bow but they scooted off way too quickly for us to get photos. We thoroughly enjoyed this wreck dive until it was time to surface and back into that horrendous current again – with the safety stop on the fixed line being particularly challenging. Luckily the dive boat captain is pretty skilled and picked us up as we drifted along at speed after we all collectively decided to abandon the line because we couldn’t physically hold on to it!!!

Back on board we headed back into the national park for a shallow reef dive at around 30 feet. Was not a lot to see but we enjoyed it although even in the shallower waters the current was running quite strongly.

Wednesday afternoon having got ourselves cleaned up we chilled by the pool and had another early night.
Thursday morning and Happy St Patrick’s Day!

We had heard on the cruisers morning radio net that there was going to be a party at one of the bars near us so we wandered down town – principally to go to the bank and get drinking vouchers.

Strolling around through the back doubles we kept getting encouraged to visit shops to buy things – many of the vendors here have the gift of the gab although we managed to avoid their collective charms.

We then came across a local bar playing loud Mexican music – so we took a seat outside and ordered a couple of beers. Well – this place has a cantina licence which requires them to serve food every time they serve a drink – and it’s free!!!

So we ended up with chicken and nachos / followed by more chicken and nachos / followed by fried pastries filled with cheese….and finally had to ask for no more food!!! The barman didn’t speak English but had a translation package on his phone and I tried my best in Spanish – well it worked, we had a wonderful time, listened to some mariachi music on the juke box and I had to fend off the local old (slightly inebriated) guy who wanted me to dance with him LOL!   It was a really friendly place and a great way to spend a few hours….

We then grabbed a cab back – you can pretty much go anywhere on the island for about 50 pesos if you don’t mind sharing – that’s £2.   It was time to join the St Patrick’s Day celebrations. The bar was lovely and had great views out to the anchorage.

The music started and the guitarist was from Middlesborough so his repertoire of Irish songs was pretty limited so it became more of a Beatles / 70s theme. But we had a great time – avoided the green drinks served by a very happy barman – and made friends with one of the local boat dogs. You can always tell island dogs by their long bodies and short legs!

We bailed out late afternoon as we were diving again the following day so wandered back to the marina and had another early night.

Up early again Friday morning and we realise that we are the only ones on the dive boat – result!  William was going to be our leader and the first dive was a drift dive on the canyons. Well – it was definitely a fast drift dive – but we missed the canyons. He decided it was too tough to combat the current to go searching for the dive site so we just went with the flow….feeling like superman as we sped across the bottom in about 50 feet of water. There were a lot of different species around and we were lucky enough to see a large turtle and lots of trigger fish amongst many of the usual suspects – I just love the huge angelfish.

Back on the surface we headed over to the national park again for our second dive – on another man-made installation of a variety of shapes that have been sunk at about 30 feet. The coral was bright and beautiful and the fish were plentiful – with one of my all-time favourites, the giant puffer fish, putting in an appearance. There was also a pretty large barracuda and a huge black grouper that swam away quickly when he spotted us – reckon William’s signal about being hungry was correctly interpreted LOL.

All too soon we returned to the marina and had a lazy afternoon on board followed by catching up on the internet over a few beers in the evening.

This morning – Saturday – and we have decided to take the weekend off. So we’ve had a leisurely start to the day and Richard is now snorkelling under Morphie to clean her waterline while I’m blogging. We have definitely decided to haul out this summer in the Rio Dulce, Guatamala, rather than in Panama – although we haven’t yet finalised the arrangements.

So, as a result of that decision, we don’t need to move on so fast. Which is just as well – the wind is strengthening again on Sunday / Monday and there is no suitable passage window open to us for a while yet. So we’re going to make the most of it and enjoy more exploring and more diving. The marina’s dock master has also been very kind to us by allowing us to just top up our marina payment from the original daily rate to the monthly rate which is significantly cheaper – so we’re all set here for a couple more weeks. Definitely not complaining!  We love it here….

Bye for now

Jan

Tuesday morning we strolled down towards the ferry terminals….we wanted to catch the older / slower one as it took us into the right port in Cancun.   We got our tickets – only £5 return each – and drank coffee while we waited.  

We climbed across a very rickety metal ladder with ‘Mind the Gap’ resounding in my head before we cast off – into a very rough sea – and we occupied ourselves by watching the Mexican news on the ferry’s tv.   We struggled to translate exactly what was going on – but the coverage of Trump had a rolling ‘latest news’ banner calling him a Nazi.   Hmmm….seems like he’s upset the Mexicans pretty badly!

We arrived at our destination and walked to the government office clutching all our stamped and signed papers.  The lady was very accommodating but couldn’t issue our temporary import permit as we hadn’t come armed with Morphie’s inboard engine number!   Damn…..   Neither of us had picked up on this “very important” requirement so we’ll have to come back another day.

So we walked back to the ferry terminal feeling a bit dejected – and of course the heavens opened and we got very wet!   We sat – admiring Captain Hook’s pirate ship – and waited for our return trip.  Was another bumpy ride and, this time, the sea was coming in through the window seals as we bashed into the wind and waves.

Arriving back on Isla Mujeres we were greeted by more torrential rain….   An enterprising chap crossed the road from his shop and was selling ‘pack a macs’ so we bought one each and wandered downtown trying not to get too wet crossing the flooded roads.   

We had a nice time looking at all the little shops, boutiques and restaurants that fill this end of town nestled alongside the fishing village.   There was an eclectic mix of items for sale – not sure of the significance of the wrestling masks!   After a late lunch / early dinner we wandered back to the marina where we had an early night.

Wednesday morning – armed with the ‘very important’ numbers this time – we went on the ferry with it all feeling a bit like ground hog day LOL.  Yay – this time we got our permit issued which is valid for ten years….    Mission accomplished we headed straight back to Morphie to get on with the rubbing down / varnishing of the eyebrows.   While Richard was applying the varnish I started cleaning the stainless. 

Eventually by late afternoon we were done and we had a quick bob in the pool to cool off before going on board Island Sol – our neighbour – for sundowners.  

We had a good look around their boat and then they came on to Morphie so that they could see the differences between their older Island Packet and our newer one.    We had a lovely evening – with Charlie particularly enjoying the Goslings Dark & Stormy – while Sarah tried out our Cuban beer.    Having been cruising in this area for a few years they were full of useful information for us about Panama / Guatemala etc.   And they told us about the lightning season in Panama – with violent thunderstorms a daily occurrence during the rainy season (April to October).    We are planning to be in the San Blas islands at that time – these islands are notoriously tricky with poor charts and extensive reefs so you need to use eyeball navigation.   Hmmm…..so the rainy / lightning season means we may have to sit out rainstorms and thunderstorms for days on end…..waiting to be struck as we will potentially be the tallest point for miles around.   Gulp….we may need to rethink our plans!

Thursday morning – we rubbed down, varnished and carried on with the stainless cleaning.   In the afternoon we got ourselves cleaned up and headed out – and walked to another marina down the road where we had been told there was a chandlery.   Well we couldn’t find it – anyway, we ended up in the Verde Bar & Restaurant and had a very late lunch, early dinner.   Was absolutely lovely!   Wandering back we stopped in another bar and had a beer sitting on the swings.  

We had final pontoonies in the marina – served by Daniel – and got chatting to other cruisers many of whom had cruised extensively between here and Panama.   And, yes, the lightning season was confirmed and they all declared they wouldn’t frequent that area during this period.  Oh dear….

Friday morning – and, yes, you guessed it…..repeat….    Richard applied the final coat of varnish to the eyebrows and went around identifying other ‘keepers’ that we needed to do.   I got dink down and went around the hull cleaning the stainless under the rail….   Yay – job done!!!  

We had a lazy afternoon bobbing in the pool – talking through our options – and ended up having another early night after a moody sunset.   The wind seems like it is finally calming down – but still coming from the south which means there is no chance of us moving on just yet – so we decided to stay put for another week.

Saturday morning and we were up early and had breakfast in the marina.  Wow – huge!!!  Amazing value at only £8…..    

We then popped into the dive shop and booked a couple of dives for Monday afternoon.   We meandered into town and hired a golf buggy for 24 hours and took ourselves off on a tour around the island.  

We had a lovely time – including finding a local dressed as a Mayan near the ruins – and stopped and started all over the place to take in the views…..   From little village scenes to fancy cliff-top villas – from zip lining to crashing waves….to iguanas…..  And even some Banksie style wall art.  Stunning place!    

Driving back from the far end of the island my hat blew off – so we stopped and I went to pick it up – and I ran back across the road.  Not a good idea in flip flops.   So….of course…..I got my feet tangled and flew through the air landing face down across the road and high curb.  Richard was not impressed – and other people were stopping to check I was OK while I tried to scrape myself up off the floor!   I cleaned myself up – thankful that I didn’t tear my clothes – and was only bleeding from some gravel scrapes on my elbow.    Oh well….no harm done…apart from my brand new RNLI hat which got damaged in the process of being retrieved!

We headed back into town and had a couple of beers in a small roadside bar before heading off to the beach.   This was full of day trippers – and we had a lovely late lunch in a little Mexican restaurant – while people watching.   We had now circumnavigated the whole island and we headed back to Morphie – planning to rest up before heading out again for the evening.   Well we rested up and ended up staying put!

Sunday morning we were up early – said hello to the pelican that likes to sit on the mooring post -and headed out to the big supermarket – time to stock up on Mexican beer and fresh meat.   

Back to Morphie, we unloaded our provisions, and then went to return the buggy.   We had about an hour to kill so we drove around the town again – watching the tourists streaming off the ferries – before we returned it having topped up with drinking vouchers at the bank.    Back to the marina we got ourselves into our swimmers and headed down the road to the Soggy Peso.   This is a happening place on a Sunday and we enjoyed a plate of ribs while chatting to some people we shared a table with.   Was a nice way to spend a couple of hours.

Back to the pool for a little while then we got cleaned up and met Charlie and Sarah.  We got a taxi to a restaurant they wanted to try – and we had a lovely meal – before returning to the marina for final pontoonies.  Was a great evening with new friends.

Monday morning and Richard worked on the keepers while I started blogging.  Just after lunch we headed to the dock to await the dive boat – due to leave at one o’clock.    So we sat waiting…and waiting….and waiting….and finally the boat arrived at two.    We got ourselves quickly geared up and left – with just us and two dive masters on board.  Perfect!   We haven’t dived for a while so today we were going into the national park to do two shallow dives – one on the statue installation and the other on a reef.   We headed out and were amazed by how many boats were out there – but our dive leader William was very skilful working our route to keep us away from the crowds of divers and snorkelers.    We did the maximum time – 45 minutes – and returned to the boat.  Thoroughly enjoyed seeing the statues – interesting place – but didn’t have the same impact as the one in Grenada.   Maybe it was the less serious nature of some of the installation?? 

Back on board the guys quickly dismantled our equipment and set us up again for the next dive – while we sat back and enjoyed the valet experience LOL.   Moving only a couple of miles away, and still within the national park, we did our backward rolls into the water and quickly descended to a very good looking reef with lots of life – including a little turtle munching on the soft corals.   A lovely dive – with a few more statues – and again we did the maximum 45 minutes before returning to the boat.

Back to the dock and we sped through the cut, admiring the large house on the end, back into the marina where the guys helped us clean all our gear and took it away for storage so that we don’t have to carry it around…..   Great service!   We returned to Morphie, showered and then headed to the bar for a couple before turning in as we were both quite tired.

This morning – Tuesday – and Richard has dropped off laundry and organised more diving for tomorrow morning while I’m sitting down below blogging…..    We are intending to relax for the rest of the day.

Oh yes….  We are seriously considering hauling out in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala, rather than in Panama this season.    We can then visit the San Blas islands in the dry season (non-lightning season!) in December on our way to the Panama Canal in January 2017.  But lots more research to do yet….  Will keep you posted.

Bye for now

Jan

Monday afternoon we returned to the Hemingway dock master and paid our bill, relieved that he did not ask us for a tip as had happened to other cruisers.   We picked up our laundry, returned to Morphie, watched our final Hemingway sunset and had an early night.

Tuesday morning we were up very early to find hardly a breath of wind.   We recalculated our passage many times with different scenarios but couldn’t work out how we could make it before dark without punishing the engine.  So we decided to do a day passage to Bahia Honda instead – then push on to Cabo San Antonio the following day.   Decision made – and we slipped away from the canal – and round the corner onto the Customs Dock.   After a bit of a wait, we were issued our Despacho and the customs guy came on board to check we had no additional passengers.

We finally left Marina Hemingway behind us going straight out into a beautiful azure blue sea.   Very few boats out and about and we enjoyed watching the scenery – and the industrial landscape – of the coast of Cuba.   

The wind came out to play for a little while, but still very light airs, so we deployed our whisker pole for the first time.    It all went pretty smoothly so we were pleased with our performance.  Mika – the catamaran we had met in Varadero – chased us down and came alongside for a little radio chat….  We waved them goodbye and carried on – pulling into Bahia Honda at around three o’clock having covered 41.8 miles.  It was a lovely downwind sail with the occasional lift from a counter current that runs along the coast.

Bahia Honda is a large bay and we radioed the Guarda Frontera to let them know of our imminent arrival.  We found the customs building and anchored off – amazed to find ourselves in the middle of a junkyard….and not little boats either….  

Well after an hour of radioing and with the sky darkening we decided to get some shelter away from the channel and radioed the Guarda (in Spanish!!!) to let him know that we were moving to anchor behind Punta Del Caldero if he wished to see us.   We have always chosen not to be the only boat in the anchorage in isolated places – and, guess what, this is exactly that.  

So we enjoyed the sunset and then had an early night having set all our security measures in place.

Up early Wednesday morning and by 6.45 am as the sun was coming out to play we picked up and moved slowly out of the bay.  

Again the winds were very light and variable so the pole was deployed ….then the wind swung ENE and dropped, so the sail got put away….then it came out again….and the scene was set.   Richard decided to try his hand at fishing and caught a lovely female Mahi Mahi – but we decided to let her return to the deep as we didn’t have time to eat it all before arriving in Mexico, where it would probably be confiscated and wasted.  We loved watching the hundreds of flying fish getting out of our way but, despite hours of trying, I couldn’t get a decent photo of one of them skipping across the waves ahead of us.

And then the ships came out to play with one altering course to give us safe passage….   Thanks!  

The sun went down and it was the blackest night ever…..with no moon.  Now the wind strengthened, the pole was put away, and we were picking up speed in another current – and we were now going to arrive in the dark!   So we reefed to slow the boat down although we still maintained 6/7 knots and then, suddenly, as quickly as it had started the current switched against us and our ETA was pushing back….and we were now only going at four knots so the sails were unfurled.   Lots of ships around too…..

By 8.30 am on Thursday morning having watched another sunrise at sea we were alongside the dock in Los Morros, Cabo San Antonio, having completed another 137.2 mile passage.   We did the paperwork and then wandered up to the marina buildings saying hello to the many cats that were wandering around and ‘talking’ to us!   

We found out that there was an Eco hotel up the road – about 4 kms – so we cadged a lift from the white van man who drives constantly backwards and forwards between there and the marina.   The exhaust on the van was absolutely wrecked and we could barely hear ourselves think!   We arrived – were amazed to find wild pigs wandering around – and had a couple of beers in the bar.   We chatted to some Canadian woman, and her Cuban boyfriend who seemed to be enjoying himself spending her money on expensive imported Scotch whisky, and then went off to find our van man again.  He had by now removed the exhaust and just left it there on the road as he took us back!  

Back at the marina we chatted with another boat who had just turned up from Mexico – with the guys being quarantined on board as the customs office had no visa forms so they couldn’t be checked in and were being diverted about 150 miles north or south to complete formalities – they were not happy!   Then a coach drove down the dock – as this dock is clearly the only gas station in this part of the island.   Was a strange sight alongside.   We then had an early night in preparation for our passage the following day.

Friday morning we got our Zarpe and left the dock by around 8.30 am.   And, of course, there is no wind.  But we have to get going – our tourist visa expires in a few days and there is bad weather coming from the South – so we traded good passage conditions for the lack of wind.    Goodbye Cuba – we had enjoyed revisiting you – but we will not be back again.   With the restrictions put upon boats not being allowed to visit many anchorages unless they either have a marina; are a clearance port; or a tourist resort – the rest remains a myriad of beautiful cayos but you are not allowed ashore anywhere by dinghy, particularly near settlements.   The people of Cuba continue to endure hardships that you can only imagine.  

Actually the wind did pick up enough to get out the main so we motor sailed – into huge amounts of ships.  There were never less than seven ships on the AIS throughout the whole day….with us slowing to let some pass ahead of us and others diverting to pass behind us.   Certainly made the watches interesting!  

Not to mention riding the currents…..crossing the Gulf Stream……which pushes north at a rapid pace of knots….so we had to adjust our course to allow for all that….   Check out the movement of the currents below.

It was a cloudy grey day and the dark night loomed – and then we were surrounded by lightning storms.   So we reefed down accordingly anticipating them coming at us – but they just kept circling.   The wind switched, the current got us at one point forcing us to change our course by 35 degrees just to keep going in a straight line, and the sea got lumpier.  Oh well….almost there…..  Certainly not much chance of falling asleep on watch with all this activity going on!   And we always get mesmerised by the fairy dust being sprinkled into the dark ocean by that tiny leprechaun who resides on the stern.   Can watch the magic of phosphorescence for hours at a time – absolutely fascinates me for sure.

The sun came up welcoming us to Saturday morning and we were rewarded by a lovely dolphin encounter.   Ahhhhh…..makes us both smile every time!

Finally we can see land ahead – although it was difficult to tell apart Isla Mujeres from the coastline of Cancun beyond for quite a way away.    Then it became clear as the rocks at the end of the island became apparent ….  Navigation was definitely aided by the distinctive huge hotel too.

We rounded the island and pulled into Marina Paraiso by 10 having completed another 115 mile passage.    We engaged Chapo – the Dock Master – to help us with the checking in procedure.   This involves loads of photocopies of loads of documents and visiting lots of different authorities….   He told us to go wait in the bar, have a cold drink, and he’ll let us know when the authorities arrive.   Nice!   The first one to turn up was the agriculture guy who wanted to check out fish / meat / vegetables.  As we didn’t have anything other than processed / canned he was on and off Morphie within five minutes.   Back to the bar……and the next to turn up was the Sanitation man. This was to check we were healthy.   Job done back to the bar….    Then the immigration man came and gave us 180 day visitor cards…and back to the bar…..watching our new best friends the iguanas.

The final guy was customs – but no show – and Chapo then called us over.  He explained to us that the customs guy had just stamped our papers and was not coming to visit us – neither were the drug / gun sniffing dog.   Excellent!    So we are all set – paid Chapo his fee – and we returned to the bar.   Pretty tired we shared fish and chips before heading back to Morphie for a very early night.

Sunday morning and we were on a mission – we went to the marina restaurant (which is part of a hotel) to have breakfast – and then walked 15 minutes down the road to the huge supermarket.   

Amazing!!!   Sells everything and must be the Mexican equivalent of Walmart.   We got some pesos from the ATM and bought some fresh meat, vegetables and crusty bread.  Yay!!!  

We walked back and then got to work – cleaning all the salt off Morphie and spot cleaned her top sides.   She looks pretty again now.

Then we took ourselves to the pool for a bobbing afternoon before returning to have an early dinner of steak and fresh vegetables (yum) before turning in after a spectacular Mexican sunset.

This morning – Monday – and we’ve spring cleaned Morphie down below.  Now Richard is masking up the “eyebrows” as they need varnishing badly.   

I’m down below blogging……   We are finally getting back into our ‘mornings for boat jobs’ and ‘afternoons for fun’ cruising routine.    Not sure what we are going to do later – probably head out to explore a bit as we haven’t been here for at least 15 years.  

Tomorrow – Tuesday – we have to get the ferry to Cancun to secure our Temporary Import Permit (really a cruising permit) to enable Morphie to stay in Mexican waters for longer than five days which we have to do in person.  And that will finalise all our paperwork – incredibly bureaucratic process!!   Oh yes and we have decided to remain in the marina for the time being as bad weather is forecast from Tuesday through to Friday – building to 36 knots – making the anchorage, which has poor holding in grass, not a particularly desirable option.    

Bye for now

Jan

Thursday afternoon I gave up on the blog……the internet kept falling over and the photos wouldn’t load……and I was fed up with using lots of internet access cards too.  While I was doing all this Richard had been chatting and ended up challenging the crew of Florentina to a game of boules – so the guys came and played – with the German female contingent opting out.  Richard wore his French hat to gain a psychological advantage but was let down by my shoddy performance.  The final result of the tournament was Germany 2 – England 1.   Oh well, never mind….. 

Back on board, feeling a bit chilled from the north wind, we had some dinner and an early night after a nice sunset.

Friday morning I tried again to publish the blog and it failed.  So we decided to walk to the hotel for a better consistent signal – this is just so frustrating.   Richard listened to Chris Parker, the Caribbean weather guru, on the SSB.  These cold fronts just keep on coming through.  The northern coast of Cuba is pretty inhospitable and, although there are lots of cayos and mangrove areas inside the vast reef which runs along the coast (10 miles out in places) this inside run cannot be attempted at night as the charts are pretty sketchy in places and it needs eyeball navigation.  On top of that a north wind makes the cuts into these areas pretty difficult too.   So we are thinking instead of doing a straight 30 hour passage to the end of the island rather than days of daylight hops – especially as we are not allowed to go ashore at our destinations – before making an overnight passage on to Mexico across the Yucatan Strait.   We want to avoid north winds and, guess what, Chris is predicting three cold fronts coming through on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday….and the front that we are in the middle of hadn’t even blown itself out yet.  So it was starting to look like we might be here for a while.   

At the hotel – I finally got the blog published.  Yay!    We need more internet cards so decided while we were out and about we’d walk to Club Havana where we know they had some previously.    Walking along from the hotel I spotted a hair salon – so popped in and made an appointment for Saturday. 

We walked slowly and checked out the fishermen’s village and some of the local streets along the way.   At the Club they sold us some cards – that’s a relief.    But will have to be more careful about how we use them this time!

Walking back we spotted some unusual shapes and colours down a side street so went off to take a look.   Well – it is a tribute to the architect Antoni Gaudi – and there are all sorts of mosaics and strange buildings.   We also spotted a little dog up on a roof who thinks he is a mountain goat LOL.

As we went past a pretty ordinary-looking building we were tempted in by the guy outside who promised us a garden oasis in the city. 

Sceptical but interested we followed him in – through a modern nightclub type bar – and were amazed to find ourselves in a little paradise. It is brand new and only been open a month, we never expected to find anything like this here in this small town.  

We sat down, ordered a beer, looked at the menu and got tempted.  We ended up with chicken and pork from the open fire pit with rice and salad.  Was absolutely lovely….and the total cost was only 17 CUC and that included four beers!    And clearly the hummingbird thought it was an oasis too as he flew from flower to flower….   What a treat – we suddenly didn’t feel quite so fed up about having to stay here because of weather.  

Moving further down the street we explored more of the Gaudi-inspired area and were absolutely fascinated by this hidden gem of mosaics.   On the way back the sky was full of mare’s tails – which indicates another front is coming.   Great…..sigh…..

We walked back to Morphie and Richard continued with the construction of port fillers.   What are they for I hear the non-sailors asking?  Well, in extreme conditions, it is possible for ports (windows) to get smashed by big seas.   That can be a catastrophic event and so we are thinking about what we would do in those very rare circumstances – and this is all Richard’s idea.   So that was what the jigsaw was for!!!   Pretty good so far eh?  He’s such a clever clogs.  We didn’t do anything else for the rest of the day other than chilling in the cockpit and having another early night.

Saturday morning I left Richard continuing with his port fillers and wandered off to the hairdressers.  And, of course, it wasn’t open.  Oh well…..obviously I had the first appointment of the day…and she is on island time.   So I sat at the bus stop opposite and read my book for a while – but gave up after 25 minutes.  Clearly she was going to be a no show.  Feeling really fed up I wandered back.

Richard had by now finished the port fillers and had thought of a way of securing them in place – there will be wood batons fixed inside across the hole….   Great job!   I must reiterate for all the family and friends that read this that this is a very rare occurrence – so do not worry!   But we certainly feel happier knowing that we have something ready if that situation were ever to occur.  

Forced back down below because of the cold we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening watching movies….

Sunday morning and we did a few boat jobs – and the wind has died down and the wind is now coming from the north east.   Hmmmm……interesting!   We decided to return to the outside bar which is located between the end of Canal 1 and Canal 2 – and it was rammed.    There was some sort of car event going on……there was loud music, people dancing, and cars doing doughnuts!    It was kind of funny – here we were taking photos of the old cars – while the locals were all posing in front of the BMW that was centre stage.    We sat out on the wall for a while enjoying the sun and watching some boat traffic – the declining wind had encouraged people to get on the move. 

We went up the stairs to Papas restaurant – which is actually a Chinese.   It is pretty shabby chic but the food smells were good so we ordered a late lunch.    Wow – it was great!!!  Thoroughly enjoyed it – and clearly it is a favourite as there were many locals in there having family occasions.   And we would have taken photos of the food but we couldn’t wait to tuck in LOL.

Back on board and we sat in the cockpit and listened to music – waving at Pieter and his crew as they headed out to a restaurant in their dinghy – and watched the sun go down.    It was another moody one because of the heavy cloud cover.

This morning – Monday – and Chris Parker thinks that the weather patterns are moderating which means we can make a passage to Mexico on Sunday / Monday of next week.   So we used one of our internet cards to confirm it with other weather websites – all looking good….   But first we have to get down the coast – and there are north winds forecast during the week.   So we’ve decided to get out of here tomorrow, Tuesday, and make a direct run to Cabo San Antonio.   We’ll chill down there for a while on anchor and wait for the passage window.  We’ve checked it out and we can go ashore there as it is an official port of entry which means we can also get our exit Zarpe for Mexico.   It is slightly exposed in north winds so we’ve been doing a bit of research and have found a couple of cayos we can tuck behind if we need to….so all looking good.

So I’m blogging while Richard is doing engine checks.   We’ve also dropped some laundry off – no self-service allowed here – and have been to the Dock Master to start the checkout process.   We’ve been told to come back at 5pm to finalise it and then we’ll be good to go at 10.00 am on Tuesday after a quick detour to the customs dock for our official Despacho. 

I’m not sure if we will be able to find internet at our next destination – so it may be we’ll be off line until we arrive and have got ourselves legally checked into Mexico.   But we’ll be in touch when we can.   Oh yes, and Happy Mother’s Day to my mum for this coming Sunday – hope you like the flowers!  Lots of love xxxx

Bye for now.

Jan    

Saturday and the weather window was still looking good – so we walked across to the marina office to pay our bill.   Without the receipt you can’t get a customs clearance to move onto the next port.   Next stop was the customs to let them know that we would like to leave at three on Sunday.   All sorted…..

We then returned to Morphie and did final engine checks and put waypoints into our plotter – then we moved her off the med mooring and docked her alongside.  There are not many boats left here in this vast place.  Later on we returned to our favourite pool and said our sad farewells to Durnia.

Back to Morphie and we did final engine checks / waypoints before we headed out to the cash restaurants – decided to try the Mexican but didn’t fancy the menu – so ended up back in the Argentinian steakhouse again, which was OK.    Then we wandered into the hotel foyer to check the internet and we did a bit of people watching while the security guards watched us!  They have treated us OK but some of the other cruisers have had real difficulties moving around the complex – not really fair when we’re paying to use the facilities in our marina fee.

Sunday morning we walked to the coffee shop as we had found that they sell French baguettes first thing in the morning!   So we hurried over there – mission accomplished – and Richard did final checks while I got our passage food ready.    Later on the customs girls turned up – looking anything like customs officials – especially the fishnet stockings and the skirt no wider than a belt!   We got our exit paper and we are ready to go….   Slipped away from the dock at three as planned – saying a final goodbye to Varadero – and headed out through the channel which is well marked and pretty wide most of the way, just watch out for our friend Mr Flatpack!!!

We decided to go out the way we came in rather than cut through closer inshore as the coast of Cuba bends and we would get a straighter shot at our next destination.  We turned to start our downwind run on genoa alone – the sea was bigger than expected and the currents stronger – and the wind was about 20 knots too.   We were flying – surfing down the waves with boat speeds above 8 knots – and at one point our ETA at Hemingway Marina was going to be in the early hours of the morning.   But we were anticipating a very strong current going against us as we get close to Havana so we didn’t worry about it at this stage.  We reefed down and enjoyed the sunset as we headed into our shifts after dinner.

The moon came up and it was beautiful – lighting up the sky so much that it didn’t feel like night at all….making it easy to spot the significant number of ships around. The night continued and it was very rolly so we both found it difficult to sleep but did our best as we kept getting slammed from all directions with rogue waves.    The wind calmed down a little so we shook out the reefs during the night.   

My shift and, of course, I get the cruise ship.   He was heading at our bow so I radioed him – yes he could see us – do not worry he said.  Well, that’s fine for him to say, but I thought less than a quarter of a mile turning directly across us as he entered Havana was a bit close for my comfort zone – so I changed course and pointed at his stern.  Looks like a long way away from the photo as he finally crossed but believe me he wouldn’t have been if I had stood my course!

As we neared Havana on Monday morning the current against us was significant – and we slowed down to two knots across the ground.   Amazing skyline…

We never did get shore power in Varadero and the overnight use of all the instruments was taking its toll on our batteries so we decided to motor sail the final 20 miles.    We picked up speed a little and made it to the entry waypoint…which we’d taken from the physical chart we had as we had spotted that the Garmin chip was hopeless for the detail of Hemingway Marina.   The channel is well marked and wider than we thought but it was pretty shallow either side with breaking waves over the reef that we were passing through.  Thankful for the advice to do this entrance in an east wind….  Check out the differences on the charts below.

We came alongside the customs dock – showed our clearance – and we were told to go to Canal 1.  We were a bit disappointed as we knew that Canal 2 had better protection from northerlies and, allegedly had power and water.    Well…..Canal 1 also has power and water….and actually the power is the right voltage!  Yay!   We had fenders and lines already on our port side (for the customs dock) so rather than swap them all over we turned around in the canal and got Morphie docked alongside.   The dock hands tied her up for us – connected our power and (low-pressure) water – and the dockmaster came on board to do more paperwork.   All completed – hands shaken – and we then did our spring lines.    We were a bit shocked to see the huge rock protruding from the wall just ahead of us in the water – glad we didn’t need to take some extra room!

We then washed Morphie down and chatted to some cruisers we had last seen in Varadero.  They told us that the hotel across the road had no internet tickets so we had to walk to Havana Club to log on.  Wanting to tell everybody we were safe we went on the trek – it was a long dirty, dusty, walk.  Just what you need after an overnight passage with little sleep!!!  Anyway we got there – admired the beautiful building – and purchased some internet cards and a celebratory beer at the beach bar. 

Tiredness was overcoming us so we quickly headed back to the marina – locked down – had a shower, watched a beautiful sunset, and then went to bed!

Tuesday morning we went exploring the marina – this place is rundown and pretty dirty, but we knew that….and even the canal wall has disappeared in places!   

There is an abandoned hotel at the edge of the complex and a couple of stores – although you have to watch where you put your feet even in the shop as the floor is all broken up.   We found an unusually parked car as we wandered to the Hotel Aquario which is alongside Canal 2.   This is also run down and has a real strange view of art in my humble opinion LOL.   Interesting to see a couple of racing yachts being stored here too….

We went into the hotel – yes no internet cards – and asked about using their pool.  Yes for 10 CUCs each per day (at 1.33 to the pound) – so went and had a look to see if it was worth it.  Doesn’t look too bad from the photo but definitely not clean and Richard decided he would need a few jabs before venturing in…   So looks like our pool days are over for now – shame!   We also found out that they have discontinued the shuttle bus to Havana so we need to research other options – there is a bus service for sure.

Walking back we went into a snack bar at the end of Canal 1 which is where local taxi drivers hang out to see if we could do a deal.    The beer was bad so we went next door and found a three lane bowling alley, football on the TV and general noise!  The Cubans are very excitable and loud so we made a quick exit after one.  We wandered to the end of the dock and found another bar – which looks over the water – and isn’t too bad if you can avoid looking at the litter of old cans lying around in the sand….   They had a Chinese next door and some people were eating – it looked good so we tried just a dish of rice and it was quite tasty if a little dry.  Not bad for 3 CUCs.   

Heading back we chatted to our immediate neighbour Pieter and his crew.  They are planning to go into Havana on Wednesday so we have decided to go together to see if we can get a deal on a taxi….   Back to Morphie and we had an early night.   One observation about Marina Hemingway is that we were led to believe that the general public could wander the docks and hustle you for work / tips / gifts etc.  But we’ve found that the security here isn’t bad and we haven’t had any requests for cash yet.   That said, wouldn’t fancy leaving the boat here unattended during the evening.

Wednesday morning we met our neighbours and wandered down to where the taxis hang out – and we came across an old American taxi which was willing to take all six of us (at a squeeze) in one car for 20 CUCs.  Bargain…..so we headed off….on the 40 minute drive.

We arrived into Havana and went our separate ways.   We have toured the city before and visited the museums – which we remember vividly – so really just wanted to wander around, soak up the atmosphere, and admire the beautiful architecture.   The place is just the same as it was 10+ years ago – but much busier with more hustlers;  more beggars; more construction;  more tourists;  more pollution;  more dancing; a huge cruise ship;  and generally just more madness and mayhem than we remembered!    It was scorching hot and the main difference we spotted was the amount of street food being offered – but there were still queues of Cubans at all the local shops – from bakers, butchers, (empty) department stores, banks and the mobile network office…..   We wandered around admiring the sights avoiding the unofficial ‘tour guides’ and the ‘photo opportunities’ with locals dressed for the cash-generating occasion.    We decided our feet had had enough so we took a buggy ride around the City – which we thoroughly enjoyed – seeing the tourist areas and the local areas side by side reminding us of the poor conditions that some people live in here.      We ended up in a local restaurant having an average meal (on the rooftop up and down some pretty horrendous stairs!) but with great musicians before we headed back to the Capitol building to find a taxi to take us back.   We thoroughly enjoyed seeing Havana again.   Check out the sights for yourselves below:

We got a great deal – 15 CUC in an old Lada – and so back to Morphie for a quiet evening on board and another early night!

This morning – Thursday – and we awoke to a north wind.   The sea is raging and boats are trapped here until it subsides – probably Saturday / Sunday….    So people are pulling themselves off the wall by taking lines ashore to the other side of the canal but we don’t have any cleats on the other wall opposite us so we’re just staying put and watching our fenders.  

Not sure what we are going to do with ourselves – we have decided not to return to Havana again – so I guess we’ll just have to catch up with the long list of boat jobs.   While I’m blogging Richard is busy making some fender boards and some wooden blanks for our ports just in case one of them ever gets damaged.    

The internet is really poor here so please be patient when waiting for the next blog..   Bye for now

Jan

Sunday night – Valentine’s Day – we took a short walk along the promenade and were greeted by a wandering band and their dancers.  Very noisy and not sure what type of music it was but everyone seemed to be enjoying them following the minstrels around like the pied piper.   

We then headed into the waterfront seafood restaurant for a special Valentines dinner.   We were greeted with pretty rum drinks….

….then our starter turned up which was salmon and shrimp ceviche…along with champagne and a bottle of white wine for later….

Then the main course of fillet steak with foie gras was delivered to us – sadly a bit too ‘blue’ for our taste – but there wasn’t any option to return it as the waiters were moving around delivering plates to everyone without paying much attention to anything else – but we soldiered on and were happy to pour our own champagne LOL!

Then desert turned up which was a lovely chocolatey and strawberry concoction.   It was all very nicely done – sitting on the balcony overlooking Morphie in the marina….    And we were royally entertained by members of the local philharmonic orchestra who played in restaurants to earn some extra money – they were very good!

After coffee we left the restaurant onto the promenade and there was a show going on.    This overlapped the all-inclusive and the cash area so wasn’t sure whether we could get a drink or not to watch the show – we asked a waiter and he was happy to serve us, so we took seats had another couple of glasses of wine and enjoyed the spectacle.  The lead singer was very flamboyant and reminded us a little of Shirley Bassey….followed by some acrobatic dancers.    What a lovely end to the day.

Monday morning and Richard finished the varnishing in the heads while I had a massage, which was a lovely treat.  Don and Michele from SV Hemera asked whether we could help them to try and resolve an autopilot issue.  Not experts but happy to try.   So we went on board….and decided that the autopilot needed recalibrating as it may have reset to factory settings whilst on the hard and disconnected from any power source.   Really just an educated guess as the compass differential was showing blank settings.    We decided to leave the calibration for another day as it involved a sea trial and ended up staying on board Hemera…. and chatted…. and drank beer alternating supplies between the two boats… and chatted… and drank beer… and then rum….    Was a lovely impromptu afternoon / evening which meant that we returned to Morphie for a very early night.

Tuesday morning we were up bright and early and boarded Hemera – cast off – and went just to the lagoon beyond the marina.   We started doing slow and wide 360s before the harbour master appeared in the chase boat – making sure we weren’t heading off anywhere we’re not allowed to go!  We finished the 360s in one direction and it looked positive on the instruments but then it fell over again…. so we did 360s in the other direction and it looked even more positive until it fell over again.   Damn – they need this working as they are heading to the Bahamas and beyond to Prince Edward Island, Canada, this year and that is a long way for hand steering.   But we did find another option in the manual so hopefully that will fix it – all fingers crossed for when they get a chance to swap the cables over.

They headed off into town while we took ourselves to the pool near Morphie and took a cooler with us as we are not allowed to buy drinks at this bar.  During the afternoon we enjoyed watching the birds using the (freezing cold) pool as their bath and the large American motor yacht that arrived into the marina.  This caused a lot of excitement and the officials were queuing up to get on board – along with every other staff member who came out to watch it all going on.  

Don and Michele joined us for a final couple and, having had enough sun, we left for the afternoon.  Big downside to the wind dropping today and the weather heating up is that the bugs are out in force – we all got quite badly bitten sitting around….

Later on that evening the four of us headed over to the Argentinian Steak House for dinner – had a lovely meal with great company – was a lot of fun.   On our way back to the boats we came across another show – so we took up a couple of empty seats and watched.  More dancing and the guys definitely enjoyed the skimpy outfits a lot!!!

Wednesday morning and we said our farewells to Don and Michele who are heading into an all-inclusive resort as their son is flying in to get married.    We are going to be the security detail for their boat while they are away – although it is illegal for Cubans to come on board private vessels there is no security from other tourists who wander around.   Actually we are thinking of charging them to wander our dock as we have featured in many holiday photographs, including one wedding and one model shoot so far!!!   

We went for a walk and found the other apartment complex pool.   This one has a cash bar – so we decided to spend the afternoon here…  But the walk is a long way and we’d already done it once today there and back so took dink for a run out.   Check out the view of the marina from the other pool – not to mention the whole area still under construction.  This place is absolutely huge!    Lovely cloud formations today too….

Oh yes, and for some perspective on sizing, check out the US yacht against the apartment buildings.

We had a lovely afternoon bobbing – yes the water was actually warm enough to go in – and came back for a quiet night on board.

Thursday morning and we awoke to a brilliant blue sky and pretty warm temperatures.   So we decided to go to the beach after doing a few chores like changing beds etc.   This is a public beach so although we have to walk through the hotel grounds – armed with our marina passes – we can take beds there.   But again we took a cooler as we were not sure whether we could get drinks.

Varadero beach is a very long strip of sand and, with the wind blowing from the north, it had some pretty impressive waves breaking. 

We lazed around for a while and did a bit of bobbing in the sea – first time this year!!! – before returning to Morphie via the hotel’s large pool.   We were not questioned by security so we sat down for a little while to watch the goings on – obviously this is all-inclusive as lots of people are drinking lots of alcohol – and there were quite a few Manchester accents!  Richard was tempted to engage about the latest Spurs football results LOL.   It is very pretty although not a lot of shade to be had.

We have decided not to take up the option for an all-inclusive day pass at 87 CUCs (around £65 each) as we thought it would take a lot to spend it.  For example, in the cash area, beers are 2 CUCs and our Argentinian steak meal only came to 60 CUCs for both of us which included three courses and wine!   

Thursday afternoon we returned to the pool near Morphie for a couple of hours – had a nice time with a couple from South Korea who now live in Canada – and chatting to the lovely friendly staff.   After a lot of sun and another lovely day we had an early night.

This morning, Friday, and our laundry has returned – Jose the dock master takes it away and returns it done just like magic!   The sky is grey and the front has arrived – with very strong winds again – and it is pretty chilly.  We have been to the Cadeca for more drinking vouchers and are now sitting in the cockpit blogging /reading.    I think we will probably have a lazy stay on board day today although Richard is planning to do pre-departure engine checks while I sort out the route to Havana.     

The weather is looking good for a Sunday afternoon departure – an overnight sail along the coast – and into Hemingway Marina on Monday morning.   The east winds will give us a downwind run, although will be slow as we are heading straight into a strong current, and easterlies give us the best conditions for entering into the marina’s narrow channel through the reef.   We’ll continue to watch closely as we have to give 24 hours’ notice of departure to get our clearance documents – but hopefully next time you’ll hear from me we’ll be in Havana, the real Cuba!!!

Bye for now

Jan   

Tuesday night we went to the Schooners Wharf Bar which is another live music venue.  We had an appetizer each for dinner and settled down with a bucket of beers from the happy hour special.   The band then started up – and they were absolutely fantastic turning their hand to pretty much any type of music requested.  We had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed our last (chilly) night in Key West.

Wednesday morning and we did our final preparations.   Richard managed to negotiate an extension to our checkout time so we didn’t have to leave until 12.30 – as the girl in the marina so loves his accent LOL – so we wouldn’t have to go on the hook prior to our departure from the USA.  All ready to go so we relaxed while eating a massive brunch of burger, sausages and eggs – the final meat products from the freezer and the last of our fresh eggs.  I also cooked dinner for later.  So we will arrive in Cuba, very well fed, with just some milk and butter in the fridge – the rest is all processed meat and cheese which are allowed.  Yay!   We also took down our US flag, not sure it liked the strong winds…

We moved from Galleon marina onto the Conch Harbor Marina fuel dock to fill up our tank and spare diesel jugs.   It was all done at a leisurely pace so we finally slipped away at one o’clock ready for our overnight passage to Cuba.    As we motored away from Key West we were sad to see the boat still wrecked against the breakwater….   

We said a goodbye to the lovely Galleon Marina and the sky was blue and the clouds were fluffy…. just shame about the temperature!!!     The wind, of course, was less than forecast so we motored along for a short while…..and had another very brief dolphin encounter.

We were shadowed by a US Coastguard boat all the way out…. and then he left us and another one turned up.  This time he was towing a big rib so we were anticipating a boarding – he just stayed behind us keeping the same distance – but we were very aware of his presence.  Especially when we had a few fighter jets go overhead, which prompted Richard to start humming the theme tune from Top Gun LOL.

Finally 12 miles out – and now with the genoa up and motor sailing along nicely in 12 knots of breeze – the Coastguard turned for home as we entered international waters.    The Gulf Stream was very close to Key West so we crossed that pretty early on but the currents pushing us east continued throughout the passage – and they were very strong most of the time – so we tried to stay high of the rhumb line.   At times we were going through the water at 7-8 knots but were only seeing a speed over the ground average of 4.9.

After dinner – and no sunset because it was so cloudy – we went into our shift pattern.   The currents continued to play with us and the waves were throwing us about a bit – with a reasonable sized sea running too….   But we were having fun – or at least we were until we got nine ships on the AIS all at once – with two of them ‘not being under command’…    Oh well….seems like we found the shipping channel….   There wasn’t any distinct pattern to their movements so we just kept clear – although we did give ground and dropped below the rhumb line by holding our course when a big tanker was coming our way LOL.

Finally after a few hours the ships went away and we were the only ones out there….   Big waves and strong currents dominated and the wind picked up to around 23 knots – great downwind sailing under a reefed genoa.  It was a pretty dark night with only a sliver of moon but the clouds gave way to a spectacular starry night….    Bliss….

Thursday morning we were welcomed by the sun rising over the sea.  We had managed to climb back above the rhumb line and were heading towards our first waypoint off the coast of Cuba.   Ten miles out we made the requisite radio call to announce that we were incoming – to no answer – but at least we complied.  

The north coast of Cuba, which is a lee shore most of the time, is pretty inhospitable looking – and then you spot the large buildings / hotels which are a feature of this tourist area of Varadero.  We spotted the first markers easily and then it was just a matter of following the well-marked channel (avoiding one dead green marker – no.3 – the buoy was still there but the top had been flat packed by a wave).   Richard hoisted the flags – Cuba top with yellow Q flag underneath – and got out ropes and fenders for our entry into the marina.  Suddenly it is very busy with tourist boats coming out and about and we turned into the entrance avoiding all the construction work around.    The marina contacted us with instructions so we pulled alongside the dock they reserve for clearance – being met by the dock master and a doctor. 

The doctor came on board and asked us some health questions – all fine thanks – and then the dock master took our passports off.  We asked him not to stamp them and he said fine, no worries.   The doctor spoke pretty good English and then the dock master was back with our passports and visa forms so we had all the documents to fill in.   I had prepared a boat / crew list information sheet in Spanish already for them so they were pleased about that…..using my information to complete their numerous forms.   Then we had the question and answer session…..and we had all the right answers in the right places….and they left us with a handshake and a “welcome back” as they had asked whether we had been to Cuba before.   Only about an hour in all and was less intimidating than many of the previous Caribbean nations we had entered.   Interestingly no agriculture guy came on board to check out our supplies and no sniffer dog for drugs – both of which we had been warned about – perhaps they had a day off???   No poking around in cupboards either….nor sealing up our flares / GPS so that they couldn’t be used…..all very civilised.   Guess it depends on the guys on the day – we were lucky I think – although we had nothing to worry about because we were compliant with their rules.  Maybe our confidence about that was why it was such a pleasant experience?!?      

We then went to the Marina Manager’s office for more paperwork – all done – and then went for a wander to find a Cadeca to change up some money.  We used sterling (GBP) cash rather than use our debit /credit cards – and avoided using US dollars as apparently they charge a surcharge for that.   We received an exchange rate of 1.36 CUCs to the pound.   We then purchased an hour’s internet for 1 CUC so that we could let everyone know we were safe and sound and returned to Morphie.

Here in Gaviota Marina – which is absolutely vast with more than 1,000 places when the new bit opens (which is the construction going on) – it is designed predominantly for Mediterranean mooring with lazy lines to mooring balls.  There is an option of going alongside for three times the price so we decided to go for the stern-to option.  We got dink down off his davits and tied him alongside and then got ropes and fenders ready at the stern.   The Marina Manager turned up in his rib – they untied our lines – and then led us to our new berth which is quite close to one of the condominium complexes / the laundry (which is actually closed right now) / showers / the small store and the all-inclusive hotel.  There are numerous restaurants, bars and small shops along the boardwalk here – but, as marina guests, you are only allowed to use those in the ‘cash area’ – the rest are exclusively for the all-inclusive guests of the hotel and two apartment complexes.

We motored inside the mooring balls – as the lazy lines are not tied to the dock.   They handed me the bow line and I tied us in tight while Richard manoeuvred us around – lots of windage pushing us on – so I kept him off the dock, they tied up the stern lines and I released it a bit until we were set into the correct position.   Job done – very pleased with our performance!   

As we were adding spring lines from mid ships to the dock just in case there were any wind changes the large catamaran (that had arrived from Key West about an hour behind us) was coming inside the balls to the position near us.   Then the wind caught him and the guy hit the dock – hard – and the hull scraped along the metal barrier which protects the pilings – and he continued to run the boat down the side and gouged out a chunk about a quarter of an inch deep for a length of two feet….  And numerous other scratches too – ouch!!!   The owner was not a happy lady.   We all ran to help minimise the damage by pushing him off but it was pretty bad.

After all the excitement we decided to plug in to shore power but had been warned to check the voltage first – good job we did as it was running at 150 volts and we are a 110 volt boat – so not suitable for us to use.  We have a step-down transformer on board but the plug didn’t match.  So the electrician has gone away to scratch his head and see if he can resolve it somehow.  At the time of writing this he hasn’t so we have resorted to running the generator for an hour a day to top up the batteries.

Jobs done – and we couldn’t be bothered to do anything else – so we sat in the cockpit for a while having a few celebratory and restorative beers before heading for a hot shower and a very early night!   We slept very well.

Friday morning Richard washed the salt off Morphie while I went exploring.   I had a look in the little store near us and bought some pork liver pate…  Strange concoction of things in the store but at least you can buy frozen chicken.    I am amazed at the size of this place – it is absolutely vast.   And empty!!! 

The hotel seems pretty busy from wandering through their lobby and I worked my way through to the condo swimming pool and asked the young lady whether we were allowed to use it as marina guests.  Yes she said, no worries.  Fab….looking forward to that later.

I returned to Morphie and we spoke to the South Africans on the catamaran – they are going to haul out here now for about a week as the hull was flexing around the deep gouge and they were worried about it, as well as an engine problem.   We wandered up to the pool just to admire the views and have a beer and were royally welcomed by the young lady I spoke to earlier.    We ordered a couple of Cristals – we also tried Bucanero, another local brew, but found it a bit strong!  

We had a couple of beers each and then went to pay – and she told us ‘no, you can’t pay here, this is all-inclusive area only’.  We said, but you knew we were not all-inclusive guests – and no bracelets to show for it either – and she said no worries.  So we embarrassingly tipped her royally and hope that she did not get into trouble – she told us to come back anytime we liked!!!

Moving on we came across a couple of nice classic cars in the car park – and were stopped by security wanting to know who we were – showed them our marina passes and all is well.  Lesson learnt – do not leave the boat without them!   

We went into the luxury hotel and found out the prices for either an evening pass or a day pass and are thinking about whether to do this for a day whilst here – think we can push the boat out for one day!!!   Oh yes and I booked into the Spa for a massage on Monday….looking forward to that.

Wandering down to the cash area of the boardwalk we popped into the Tapas Bar for a couple of plates and had a couple of cocktail beers and were very pleased to find that they were only 2 CUCs each….   A bit of a change from Florida pricing!

Saturday morning and we went off in search of a bus – we crossed the road and picked up the Hop-on / Hop-off tourist bus that runs right around Varadero, which is pretty reasonable at 5 CUC per person valid all day.   We enjoyed the views of the hotel complexes – two of which we had actually stayed at in the past – and got off at the Plaza America.  

We had heard there might be a market here but, not really, just little stalls selling the same usual tourist stuff along with a bank and a pharmacy.  But it did have access to the beach so we wandered down there for a little while…..

Back in the mall we had a soft drink before rejoining the tourists.  We found out that the fruit and veg market was in Santa Marta – not possible by bus from here – but a taxi driver quoted us 16 CUCs to take us there and we thought that was a lot of money just to get some fresh provisions – so we declined.  As we walked away he said 14, then 12, then 10!!!  Looked a bit shocked that we just carried on walking despite his best price LOL

Back on the bus….we enjoyed the sights as we came into downtown Varadero….and got off again for a wander.    This is a bit more like Cuba – the hotel district is the Disney version – and at least downtown you meet locals who are selling their wares from small kiosks / tented markets.   

Back on the bus and we got off at the end of the line before it turns around – the road itself carries on towards Havana.  We enjoyed a leisurely lunch at the local restaurant there on the river – which is one that we had visited by tourist boat before when we went to a ranch….  

We reminisced about our trips to Cuba in the past and remembered meeting a couple from Scotland who were sailors – and we talked about our dreams of owning a boat and going cruising someday.   Can’t believe it – we sailed here!!! Woo hoo….  

Back on the bus – sitting on the top deck you have to duck to avoid getting hit by trees as you go along the road – and we enjoyed the sight of pelicans being fed by the local fisherman and then we headed back towards the hotel district.    We went past a restaurant called The Beatles – check it out – it’s definitely a long way from Liverpool LOL.

Back to the marina – another classic car – and then we had a couple of beers sitting on the boardwalk watching the tourist day boats return from their booze cruise / snorkelling / fishing trips – and then wandered back to Morphie via both the little fruit market store and the grocery store.   It had been a long hot day so we had a quiet evening on board.

This morning – Sunday – we got up a bit later.  I’m blogging in the cockpit while Richard is rubbing down some teak in the heads which has got water damaged.  It is Valentine’s Day so we will probably go out for dinner this evening – quite fancy the cash restaurant that sits over the water.

We’re quite enjoying being tourists here in Varadero – especially now that it is actually sunny and quite warm during the day – while we wait for a weather window to make the next overnight passage to Havana.  Bye for now.

Jan

Thursday afternoon by the time we had finished our jobs the wind had picked up and it was getting decidedly rolly.  We telephoned the marina and we received our confirmation e-mail.  The dinghy ride into town is definitely no longer a sensible option so we stayed on board and had a visit from the guy on the boat behind us asking if we knew about the bad weather due to come in overnight.   The answer was yes – we had a lot of scope out – so were confident we would be fine.    But he said it was coming from the south….  So we double checked and it was due to come from the north and much stronger than the original forecast.  Hmmmm….   Clearly he wanted us to move, so we picked up and reset just before sunset into a nice space with lots of swinging room – on an 8:1 ratio with 120 feet of chain out in 15 feet of water.

We had an early night – then the wind picked up combined with torrential rain.  Morphie is nodding furiously into the waves and then we swung through 180 degrees – the movement forcing us out of bed and into the saloon.  We went up into the cockpit at around one in the morning to do a spot check and were horrified to see a huge steel derelict boat too close for comfort on our starboard side.   So in 35 knots – with higher gusts – and very little visibility we picked up our anchor and motored our way through the unmanned unlit boats – and re-anchored even further away.  Was really hard and very wet but we managed to get away from the “hulk” as we nicknamed him.   

We got ourselves dried up and dug out our heavy offshore waterproofs and sat in the cockpit keeping a watch all night – until sunrise when the wind subsided a little and we went back down below.

The wind continued to howl all day Friday – not really going below 25 knots all day and often in the 30s – with the direction changing a couple of times forcing us out into the rain to double check our position.  Luckily we didn’t need to pick up again.  Phew!   By now we can see some boats lying on their side and some have run aground…. and others have lost their masts.

Thankful for our new anchor we held fast.   So we spent the whole day wrapped up in blankets on the sofas reading – damn uncomfortable and cold!   And that is where we stayed all night too…doing meerkat impressions popping up to check our position relative to the derelict boats.      Was a pretty spectacular stormy sunset – and yes that really is a tourist boat out there!!!

This was a very different situation than we have found ourselves before – usually in an anchorage we are surrounded by manned boats all showing lights and all looking out for each other, with horns blowing to alert people to dragging anchors.   Here in Key West we felt very vulnerable as these boats are wrecks, with nobody on board, and many appear to have been abandoned years ago so we are the only ones who can keep us safe if any of them drag…..    We found it all a bit stressful.

Saturday morning – having had very little sleep – we are relieved that we have a marina place booked.   We waited until 11.30 and checked that the slip was available and yes it had been vacated – so picked up anchor and motored around the islands and into the shipping lane and spotted a boat that had dragged in the storm and sunk right off the breakwater with just his mast and sail flapping above the water.   What a nightmare….  

We got into our allocated slip perfectly and I left Richard sorting Morphie out while I did the paperwork.  The weather forecast shows another front coming through Sunday and then again on Tuesday – so I tried to get our stay extended until Wednesday.   The answer was yes but not in the slip we had just pulled into.  But thankfully they found us an alternative slip so we moved – which was tricky as the 25 knot wind was on our side and tried to take us in – but Richard managed brilliantly and we got tied up just as the heavens opened.

And it rained – and it poured – and it rained – and it poured – and it continued to blow old boots.  But we decided to brave it anyway and went out wearing our oilies….leaving Morphie snug as a bug in her slip.

Are we really in Florida?  This weather is really getting us down now….    We tried the Galleon’s Tiki hut first then wandered down the strip to The Green Room.  Great songster – shame about the beer selection!  

Some weird people about partying- particularly the hen party quickly followed by the stag party wearing some very revealing shorts!!!   Obviously their holiday wardrobes didn’t extend to warm clothes LOL.

Moving back towards the Marina we popped into the Island Dogs Bar – listened to the female artist for a little while – and then headed back to Morphie….  Another freezing night but at least we were cuddled up in bed and didn’t need to keep a watchful eye.

Sunday morning and it was time for more chores – after hot chocolate for breakfast in the cockpit still wearing our oilies!!!

This time it was laundry and catching up on the internet followed by a wander downtown for a final drinking voucher top-up from the ATM.   On the way we talked to a guy who was on a very small racing boat and who had just come back from the Cuba race – he hated Varadero as the marina is miles from anywhere so no opportunity to mix with the locals other than those working in the nearby resorts.  They themselves didn’t get to Havana because they were time curtailed by the weather for the crossing back.   Later on I spoke to another guy who had done the same trip and he loved Varadero – particularly the modern marina – versus Havana where the marina was particularly dated.   Interesting….   Oh yes, check out the little racing boat the first guy raced.   Very low freeboard so he got swamped on the way back with water in the cockpit up to his knees most of the way!

While we were out and about we came across a manatee which was being treated to a fresh water drink by one of the guys on the dock.  Manatees absolutely LOVE fresh water – he was rolling in delight LOL!   However, giving them water really isn’t encouraged as it brings them into marinas and into contact with boats which is the main cause of injury to these amazing creatures.

On the way back to Morphie we checked out the wreck on the breakwater again…his sails are ripping now….and then we spotted the little race boat leaving for home, which was somewhere near Tampa on the west coast of Florida even though it was still blowing 25 knots and very choppy.   But at least they have places to sneak into if it gets too bad as they planned to hug the coast a bit.

We had a lazy afternoon and dinner on board – trying to eat the contents of the freezer as the importation of fresh meat into Cuba isn’t allowed – and wandered the strip.  Well – it is Superbowl night – and there wasn’t a bar without people yelling at the TV.  So when in Rome and all that we returned to the Galleon’s Tiki Hut and watched the game ourselves…..  

We chatted to an interesting guy who was down with some friends for the Superbowl and they were Bronco fans so we decided to support their team.   The adverts between the play were really funny and the half time entertainment was an eclectic mix of Coldplay, Beyonce and Bruno Mars….  Coldplay – really????   Not sure how they got top billing – Bruno was his usual amazing self….and Beyonce twerked her stuff whilst making some political statements…..   Back to the game and it all got a bit tense then suddenly another score and the Broncos were guaranteed to win – and the bar erupted….   We had a great evening.

Monday we worked out what needed to do before we headed to Cuba – the weather forecast is looking good for a crossing overnight on Wednesday but not into Havana, which has a tricky entrance, so we are now planning to go into Varadero instead.  At least we’ll be on our way….   Oh yes and we have telephoned Customs & Immigration at Key West airport – where we have to go to check out – and they told me, unlike the marina, that we don’t need a notarised document.   We’ve decided to go Tuesday so that we have time to get this sorted in case they change their mind – all depends on the official in charge on the day I guess!

While I’m in the lobby of the Galleon resort starting the blog and updating my computer to Windows 10, Richard is on board doing serious engine and pre-passage checks.  When I got back he’d even cleaned the waterline of the beard that Morphie had grown this season while we’ve been sitting in marinas…..    Doesn’t she look lovely?

Later on we headed to Publix again – we’ve found out from our interactions with the race guys – that some of them had their dairy products confiscated….   So I’m after bread – which isn’t available to purchase in Cuba as each household receive bread as part of their weekly grocery allowance from the Government – and dried milk just in case.  

The sun has come out finally – what a difference a day makes!   Looks lovely out there – and the pool is very inviting too….

By the time we got back and got our groceries stowed it was getting late….so we had an early dinner….and headed over to Mallory Square for the famous sunset celebrations.   It was crowded with vendors selling everything from roasted corn / popcorn to quite nice original paintings and hand-made jewellery.   The performers were out too – so we watched some fire eaters; some acrobats; and a lovely little pig.  

We watched the cruise ship disappear into the sunset and admired the beautiful view as the sun disappeared – wonderful colours….

Later on we watched Hindu – a lovely old gaff-rigged tourist boat – return and watched more entertainment…..  

Wandering back towards Duval Street we went into the memorial park in Mallory Square which has bronze busts of significant people in history – so we read up on some of the stories, said hi to Ernest Hemingway, and enjoyed the stories of the ‘wrecker’ industry that sprang up on this coast many many years ago….

We ended up back in the Green Room having one beer – but no musician tonight – so swiftly moved on to the Island Dogs.   Chatted with some people – including a fellow Brit who now lives in Santa Barbara – and even met a couple of Coastguard guys…..    We had a really nice evening.  The night was a bit disturbed as the wind howled and the next cold front came through…..    Seriously fed up with all this!  

This morning – Tuesday – we headed off to Customs and Immigration at the airport.   We had to telephone a number to get them to answer the door as it was a secure facility.   They let us in and asked us where we were sailing to….   Cuba we said – wanting to be honest – and expected it to be a bit difficult.   Relationships have thawed but not that much.    Sorry, they said, can’t give you an exit clearance for Cuba.   Where else are you going?   Mexico we said.  Right answer they said!  So they stamped us up with a clearance to Mexico – and we were back out in less than 15 minutes.    Phew, had been dreading the whole experience…..

We then returned to Morphie via West Marine – Richard’s last chance to get some more boat-related supplies – this time it was varnish as we need to tackle the rail again…..  We spotted another protected cock – actually as the national bird of Key West it is a $2k fine to kill one so they wander around everywhere….   Oh yes and Richard quite fancied the Harley Davidson…..

By the time we got back, of course, the sun had gone down – so we carried on making the most of our internet access.   We contacted Panama for our marina / haul out reservation for August.   We contacted the Mercy Hospital as we haven’t been billed yet for Richard’s treatment in January.  We’ve paid up our credit cards and now we’re back in the Galleon lobby – I’m blogging while Richard is surfing….and re-checking weather.

Tomorrow – Wednesday – we are planning to leave around lunchtime for the 100 mile passage to Varadero so should arrive Thursday morning.    We don’t know whether we can get internet access easily in Cuba – but we’ll be in touch the minute we can!     In the meantime, bye for now

Jan