Sunday afternoon having eaten our bodyweight in Bockits – which is a local bread speciality – and exhausted our internet fix, it was quite late so we abandoned the beach idea and ended up onboard for a couple of hours before going back into town to watch the carnival procession. There were very few people about and it was pretty deserted. We found a good spot up at the end of the town near a local bar and took up our position.

Lots of kids dressed up as well as loads of men wearing women’s clothes! Not sure what all that was about??? Couldn’t really catch pictures of them unawares due to the lack of crowds… unfortunately!  Same as the young guys wearing what appeared to be gang colours and had also covered their faces with scarves…. Later on the sound system came through…. and the procession started. It was pretty small, very carefully controlled by security people as well as armed police – and it was pretty uninspiring really. Interesting the difference between Dominica where people wander selling baskets of sweets – here in Martinique young women walk around with baskets of free condoms which are given out to other young women…. Overall we had a good time and left to go back to Morphie at around 7.

We were up early Monday morning and headed out of Sainte Anne bound for St Lucia. Initially we went with reefed sails to test the conditions in the channel…. which can be tricky.   But we very quickly dropped them out and ended up with all three full sails up in the most perfect conditions. Relatively flat seas and 15 to 18 knots of breeze on a broad reach. It was fantastic to say the least. And the whole twenty three miles was done on a single tack….  Best sailing of the trip by far!   Whilst underway we had a little race going on with a 42 foot French Amel who had set off ahead of us and was flying four sails. About half way across the channel we started to overtake him – he clearly wasn’t happy so he tried to head us up into the wind…. Hee hee – we blew him out of the water. Yay!

Arriving in Rodney Bay we anchored off the beach and took dink into the marina to clear into customs, immigration and the port authority. All done quite quickly and friendly…. and we then went into Island Water World to see whether they had stuff that we needed. Bumped into Dan – from Evensong – and ended up going back to their boat to collect Ruth and we were reunited over quick sundowners at the Boardwalk Bar in the marina. We headed back out to the anchorage before dark as we had no lights with us or on Morphie. Had a quiet night in after enjoying our first spectacular St Lucia sunset.

Tuesday morning we radioed the marina and got told which spot had been reserved for us. Great – we came in straight away – and were tied up securely in our slip by around noon. We got ourselves and Morphie cleaned up and then went with Dan and Ruth to the marina pool for a bobbing session. We have all decided that mornings are for boat jobs and afternoons are for having fun whilst we both get ready to greet friends and family in the next week or so. After bobbing we headed back to clean up and went back out for sundowners. We really enjoyed the sights and sounds of being back in the marina and were entertained by a kitten playing up a palm tree – we think he was trying to catch lizards, a little concerned he might be stuck, but he got down as easily as he had climbed up! Realising that we were pretty hungry we headed into the marina’s Thai restaurant for dinner and enjoyed a very hot green curry….. Lovely day.

Wednesday and we are cracking on with the boat jobs….. Dan is fixing their generator, Ruth is cleaning and cooking, while I’m starting on the endless round of stainless steel polishing while Richard is off out trying to get new ropes. Both our headsail and staysail furling lines are showing signs of wear – they are more than five years old now. Richard came back quite a bit poorer but laden with new lines…. and promptly installed them… while I carried on with the polishing. We had planned a beach afternoon but we didn’t make it as we all got engrossed in our boat jobs…. so eventually met up for sundowners, enjoyed another sunset, and went back to our respective boats clutching take-out pizzas.  Yes – I know it’s not local food – but having had the choice of chicken or fish with “provisions” for months, we are ready for international stuff!    Tired out we had another early night.

Thursday and we are determined to have a beach afternoon….. so the work cut-off time has been set for 1pm!  We were up early, got dink down off his davits, and dinghied into the lagoon to take the short walk through to the mall and the supermarket. It feels really weird to be back in malls and large supermarkets again, but I’m definitely not complaining!!!   We managed to get most things that I wanted to tide us over for now and headed to the bank for some drinking vouchers.

Back to the marina and we headed to the beach for a bobbing afternoon.   Richard dropped us all on the beach, went back out, anchored dink, and then swam ashore.  We wandered up to the first local concession on the beach and got a price for their buckets of beer – then tried the second one – and then went back to the first. Everything was being priced in US dollars…. when we said that we wanted to use Eastern Caribbean dollars the prices were significantly reduced as they realised we were cruisers and not cruise ship passengers. Yay….cheap beer!!!  We then cooled off in the water – playing with our new Waboba ball – and had a great bobbing time. Later on we walked up the beach back to our local ladies and tried out their freshly cooked Jerk chicken. Fantastic!

After a chilled afternoon it was time to go – so Dan went to return the bucket / bottles and Richard swam out for dink. He brought it back and we hang onto it…. in the surf / swells…. and we waited, and waited, and waited. So we sent Richard to get Dan back and he started chatting too…. Ruth and I are getting soaked through and our arms are weakening….. We were just debating about driving the dinghy back without them when they showed up. Nearly got left behind guys LOL!!    On the way back to the marina through the inlet we came across a local Rasta man who sells hats / bowls made out of palm leaves, which he does from his little very leaky boat. So we towed him back in much to his amazement.  He seemed pretty happy as he was making thumbs up signs at everybody he knew as we went through the cut alongside Gros Islet. Lovely day had by all. Back on board Morphie and we were in bed pretty early again….

Friday was fishing day!   Dan and Ruth had chartered a deep sea fishing boat with Captain Tom before and asked us whether we wanted to join them. We have never done this before so were up for it. Up very early to make a picnic lunch, 7.30 meet at the coffee shop and 8.00 we were heading out. It was pretty calm and we were going fast…. while Captain Tom got the rods / lures / bait ready. Into the channel between St Lucia and Martinique and it was really lumpy…. We were surprised that the local fishermen were out in their little motor boats – looked way too dangerous today.

Anyway, we were hopeful and we sorted out the order we would take the bites – Dan, Richard, Ruth then me. We had our instructions in using these reels, very different from any that we had used before, and settled down to wait. And we waited…. and waited….. and waited…. We moved position…. we rebaited the lures….. we changed the lures….. we changed the depths of the lures….. we dragged attractive things in the water behind us. We ate sandwiches and then drank beer. Nothing going on…. Oh hang on… Yay!!! Line streaming out… Dan is in the chair and, to his disappointment, brings in a barracuda. Back to the waiting…… Yes….goes again…. Richard is in the chair and, again, disappointment with another barracuda. Nothing else happened so Ruth and I didn’t get to have a go before we headed back into the marina….. Oh well, never mind, we had a great time.

As we drove through the channel we saw Patrick and Lucie (Illusions) in their dinghy and shouted to them. They turned and we were all reunited in the Boardwalk where we had quite a few sundowners, a lot of laughs and I really am not sure what they were doing when I took this silly photo!

This morning, Saturday, Richard is busy getting on with boat jobs while I’ve been for a long overdue haircut….

Bye for now

Jan

Monday night we enjoyed our final Roseau sunset before having an early night. Oh yes, it was also our friend Jack’s birthday…. You may recall that Jack donated our new crew member, Gervaise. So as a surprise, we sent him a birthday card featuring Gervaise enjoying life and rum in the Caribbean. He much prefers sailing here than on the River Crouch!

Tuesday morning we were up pretty early and set off on our passage to Martinique. We really enjoyed our final views of Dominica as we sailed towards the end of the island and into the passage.

This passage is known for big seas so we were cautious in our sail plan with reefs in both the main and the genoa. The seas weren’t too bad, the wind was 18-20 knots, and we were flying along about seven knots really enjoying ourselves. On Channel 16 we heard this very English voice announcing that his vessel was about to start helicopter operations and would, therefore, be restricted in its ability to manoeuvre. He was north of us up the coast of Dominica so shouldn’t cause us any trouble….. we just carried on, speculating on what this was all about. Hoping that it wasn’t a medical emergency…. Well – Budgie the private little helicopter flew past us going north. So we figured this maybe belonged to the yacht – some of these massive vessels do actually have helicopter pads on them. Oh well… excitement over… still looking out for dolphins. Then we heard the rotors again and realised that Budgie was heading back towards Martinique…. And, guess what, yep – we got buzzed again!!! He came pretty low and close to get a look at us…. Not sure what the fascination is…. surely they have seen a yacht before?

After a really good sail we reached Martinique and the wind died…. Oh well, we are only four miles from our destination of St Pierre so we put the engine on, dropped the sails, and realised that this meant hot water showers later!   Hurrah…  Arriving in St Pierre we noticed that since our visit last year, the French authorities have put in a yellow-buoyed no-anchorage zone and the shelf here is deep and very narrow…. so it is now even more restricted than before. We looked around and really could not find a spot that we would be comfortable in – especially if we wanted to sleep at night.

It was 3.30pm in the afternoon by now so we decided to carry on motoring down the coast to anchor in Anse Mitan which is opposite the capital of Fort de France. This area is huge and reminds us of the Solent in the UK – even to the extent that there was dinghy racing going on and these guys were out in their lasers in 23 knots and big seas! Some future French Olympiads???

We got a good set of our anchor and raised our yellow quarantine flag as we would not be going to clear customs / immigration tonight. It was almost 6pm by the time we were set – having travelled 52 miles – so we had a quiet night on board and enjoyed our first Martinique sunset.

Wednesday and we were up early to get the outboard of the rail and reinstalled back on dink. Oh dear…. the key won’t go in the padlock. Completely seized…  After about 30 minutes of WD40, Salt Away and various other products, not to mention a little brute strength and bad language, Richard finally managed to get it open. Another dead padlock then????!!!   Going ashore into Trois Ilets we cleared customs / immigration: here you just fill in a form on a computer, you sign, they sign, and good to go. Love the French system… We then headed into the local patisserie for our breakfast of great coffee and pastries. Yum….. and then wandered around town. This is a pretty sleepy little place with loads of French tourists spilling over onto the narrow beaches that surround the peninsula – against the backdrop of the large apartment blocks and office buildings across the way in the city. Feels very European and not Caribbean at all……

We then settled into a bistro to get access to the internet and enjoyed a really good bottle of French wine, raising a glass to our friend Bob who was celebrating his birthday in Brighton at the same time…. We also decided that we would move on in the morning. So back on board in the middle of the afternoon with some real necessities like baguettes, cheese and pate purchased and had a quiet afternoon / early evening sitting on the back of Morphie with our feet dangling into the blue water. Then we spotted this big fish hanging around our swim ladder. Not sure what he was…. but we put the camera into the water to get a picture of him. I got a bit hot so decided to go in for a swim – thinking he would move away when I entered the water – but, oh no, he came right up to me and touched me. Not sure if he was trying to kiss me or bite me LOL so left him to it!

Thursday and we were up early again and back out to sea…. This was a downwind sail to start with and was lovely. As we neared the bottom of the island, however, we had to turn into the east to run along the south coast. We had to decide to either stay offshore so that we could get an OKish sailing angle, or whether to douse the sails and run against wind and tide under motor. The seas had been building and the conditions were deteriorating… so we decided upon the latter option. Passing between the bottom of Martinique and Diamond Rock it was like being in a washing machine…. spray everywhere and we had a very wet and salty ride into Saint Anne. Diamond Rock continues to look majestic and I still can’t believe that the British climbed this steep, barren, snake-infested pinnacle and equipped it with cannons and enough supplies and water for a full crew of men. HMS Diamond Rock was an unpleasant surprise for unsuspecting ships sailing into Martinique which incensed Napolean, of course!

After anchoring and washing off the salt that Morphie had accumulated we went ashore to get some Euros and wandered around the sleepy little town. Back on board we sat on the stern platform again with feet in the beautiful blue sea and enjoyed a couple of cold ones. We had a chilled evening watching boats. This including saying “cheers” to the Customs guys every time they passed in their rib.

Friday we went into Marin via dink. This is a huge marina complex and loads of anchored boats everywhere…. but not nice water. It was a bit of a wet run as the sea is still quiet lumpy and I don’t care about wet shorts until I bump into those elegantly dressed French tourists!!!

We managed to buy some new stainless steel padlocks, had a look around some tacky tourist shops, and then headed into Leader Price which is a large supermarket that has its own dinghy dock. Got some great stuff and headed back to Morphie. Put everything away and then went ashore for happy hour at a very French bar….  Been a bit stormy and rainy today and the sunset showed it. Back on board and we really enjoyed the steak that we had purchased earlier…. been a while since we have had decent steak!

Saturday we sat out the rain and then headed to the beach for the afternoon. Had a lovely langoustine lunch and just generally chilled in the water. Whilst we were there another helicopter came over and landed in the sports field behind the beach…. not sure what that was about, but looked like an emergency situation this time.

Our friends Lorna and Brian – from Peace and Plenty – came and joined us and we introduced them to the world of bobbing. After a nice afternoon we strolled back across the hill to the town and thought that the cemetery had the best outlook of any we had seen. Wasn’t sure about the purple Jesus though?!?   Nice view of the anchorage too….

Back into town and there was a wedding…. with everyone in their finery. We weren’t sure that the tourists in the photo were invited guests or were welcome. People really should be more respectful and keep their distance….. in my humble opinion!

Saturday night Lorna invited us for dinner so we went over to their boat and enjoyed a chicken stew-type dish…. as well as a really good evening we were also treated to some spectacular sky scenes.

Today – Sunday – we have been into Marin to check out of Martinique at the Capitanarie for our trip south to St Lucia tomorrow.   Now we are in an internet café catching up…..   We may go to the beach later or into town for the carnival parade….    Not sure yet…. all will be revealed at a later date!

Bye for now

Jan

Thursday night we enjoyed our final Portsmouth sunset before retiring early.

Friday morning we bid Portsmouth goodbye as we headed out into relatively calm seas. The winds running along the coastline of Dominica are pretty fluky as it comes over the mountains so we decided to make water and keep the engine ticking over throughout the 20 mile trip. But even though the engine was on, it was in neutral, as we were determined to sail as much as we could so hoisted reefed sails and enjoyed a brisk 20 knots for a while in almost perfect conditions. Then some squalls came through and we tried to avoid getting wet – although sailing pretty fast – then we got a wind shift, then no wind so sails came down, then another wind shift, more wind, sails up and that was how we spent an enjoyable four hours. Sadly no sightings of whales or dolphins.

As we arrived into Roseau we spotted two cruise ships – one was a large sailing-type vessel and the other the traditional huge beast. And it was raining… The shelf here in Roseau is very narrow from the water’s edge and then drops dramatically into hundreds of feet in depth. So the sensible thing is to pick up a mooring ball – we were assisted by Desmond again who was pretty pleased that we remembered him from last year!

While we were getting settled we were hailed on the VHF by Brian and Lorna on Peace and Plenty – and invited over for sundowners. Yes please…. that would be lovely! Had a really nice evening with them and enjoyed watching the sailing cruise ship depart into the sunset.

Saturday morning and we were up early doing boat jobs…. And we decided to book onto a tourist trip to go whale watching from the Anchorage Hotel. The conditions were perfect – beautiful blue skies, the sun was out and the wind had moderated so the sea state was dead flat. Feeling optimistic that this might work out…. but I was also trying not to get too excited as I was soooo disappointed last year! Anyway kept busy doing laundry and whilst pegging it up on the rail we spotted that we had a small reef just below our keel – the water is so crystal clear here. So we went snorkelling and enjoyed having some fun in the water with the camera.

Back on board, got ourselves cleaned up, and headed off to the Anchorage Hotel. We listened to the skipper’s briefing, and admired the skeleton of the sperm whale that is displayed here. We managed to get squeezed onto the top deck of the boat on the front row – so had an amazing view. Please…. just one whale…. or even a dolphin will do. Really excited now…. so we took a selfie to celebrate!

Heading out into the flat sea and we travelled north about half way up the island…. Seemed a bit strange to be paying to be on a boat to do the trip we did ourselves yesterday. Oh well… fingers crossed. The captain turned off the engine and used his hydrophone to listen for clicks – the noise that sperm whales make. And there were some clicks due north….so engine on and we all start looking. Then we spotted the first blows ahead. OMG I am almost in tears realising that finally I’m going to see whales! And we watched this whale swim around until she dived. Then another one was spotted….and another….and a mother and her calf…..and a juvenile male who came right up to the boat being really inquisitive…. This was amazing. We continued to follow whales around all afternoon – taking time out to name some of them from the shape of their tail fins. We definitely identified Atwood, Tooth and Daisy…. and met about eight in total. Heading back – after a three hour excursion – and we were served rum punch to celebrate the day’s success. Wow!

Back to the dock and we decided to go visit the Drop Anchor for sundowners and Richard was going to treat me to dinner ashore. Unfortunately the bar was closed so we just ended up back on Morphie having a glass of wine and I cooked – so another early night – and another spectacular sunset.

Sunday was a lazy day on board doing a few jobs. Very very hot and still here… so ran the little Honda generator for a while to top up the batteries as the wind generator is doing nothing right now!  In the evening I cooked a meal for Lorna and Brian on board Morphie and we had a nice evening…. Enjoyed spending time with them and hope to catch up with them again along the way.

This morning, Monday, we were up early and headed into Roseau. There was a huge cruise ship in town so we took dink to the nearest dock we could get to and walked the rest of the way. We enjoyed wandering the streets and spotting differences from last year and enjoying the mountains that peek over the rooftops. The main thing we noticed was that the new Government building was finished and so was (we assume) the huge residence to go alongside it…. a horrendous amount of money that the very poor people of Dominica could have done without spending I would have thought!   We also noticed a spectacular new – or renovated, not sure – emancipation statue that stood proudly on one of the roundabouts.

Today’s cruise ship towered over everything and we were pretty amused by the noddy train that takes the passengers out around the city.

Having had lunch out at the Calabash and finished our provisioning, we came back on board via a slow dinghy ride along the foreshore looking at the variety of houses and shacks that line the shore. Everyone waves as you go by – this is definitely one of the friendliest islands.

Back on board and we are getting ourselves and Morphie ready to go to sea as we are heading off to Martinique in the morning, probably an eight hour sail…..  Will be sad to say goodbye to the Nature Isle, Dominica.  We have had a fantastic three week stay here….  Although we didn’t explore the interior this trip – having hired a car and did every trip last year we didn’t feel the need to revisit the waterfalls, the volcano, or the rainforest – we had a fantastic time and are happy to announce that this is one of our favourite islands.

Bye for now

Jan

Friday morning we were up and about early to go diving.  Today we were diving with the crew of Hooligan. The first site is a favourite of ours so we were very happy to return to it. Weather conditions were pretty good with a flat sea and sunny skies – hurrah! Very relaxed and chilled dive – spotting the usual suspects as we meandered around through the gulleys, the caverns, the tunnels and up on top of the boulders watching our bubbles come through the porous rock. Love diving through the bubbles – and the noise as they pass by is quite tinkly and surreal….. Beautiful colours to the pristine coral here and, of course, all the usual suspects were around in large numbers. About six lionfish came to an early demise on this dive too. My favourite critter this dive was a lovely giant puffer fish with his big cow-like black eyes. We had almost an hour in the water and enjoyed every minute of it.

The second dive of the day was to a new site – the Rose Garden – which was an amazing coral garden with fantastic sponges, fans and soft corals swaying in the current. This site, however, was absolutely rammed with lionfish – and way bigger than we have seen anywhere else. Beautiful fish but a menace to the indigenous fish population so they have to go….. oh yes, did I tell you they are really stupid? There are six of them under a ledge and Fabian spears the first one and puts him in a bucket. The others don’t even look around to work out where “Dave” went…. they just stay there hanging out. So the next one gets it…. and they still sit there hanging out, not wondering where “Dick” went…. and so it goes on until they are all dead in the bucket together. Very strange behaviour!   Another relaxed dive – thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Sorry no photos again…. both sites too deep. Am starting to think we should invest in proper dive housing for the camera at some point!

Dive over – shame – and back on board to clean up. In the afternoon Martin, one of the boat boys, came over to pick us up. He had arranged for us to go to visit CALLS.

Basically this centre was set up by Roman Catholic nuns in 1995 to educate the youth of Dominica between the ages of 16 and 22 who, through no fault of their own, had not completed their education. It is open to students irrespective of religious background, although has a Catholic base. It is largely dependent upon volunteers and donations – as the Government funding is minimal. The two-year programme focuses on basic educational needs and life skills to enable them to enter employment and to learn to live responsibly, including work experience at the end.  Amazingly they have a 60% success rate in students being employed at the end of the two year period.  This is really the safety net for youths who are at risk of getting involved in the seedier side of life here in the Caribbean – eg drugs, prostitution, theft, gang-related violence – to name just a few. So we went to see the principal and had an interesting discussion.  We made a small donation but also decided to volunteer to help out.  Going back to the anchorage we enjoyed seeing Morphie looking good out there.   Once we were safely back on board we had a quiet night and enjoyed the moody sunset.

Saturday morning and we were up bright and early as it was market day and I was after some fresh fruit and veg. Was quite an experience and I purchased a lot of stuff – but from as many vendors as I could to “spread the love”!   We also came across a street medical clinic where doctors were giving jabs etc – we did wonder whether this was an initiative by the Ross medical school.  Richard had, of course, to visit his favourite eatery again while we were out in town….

Back on board and we did a few boat jobs.   The rain had stopped and we had a beautiful rainbow….

Later on we headed out for the evening BBQ. Oh yes, and it’s raining again – hard!!!!!  We had a really nice evening and caught up again with Eric and Pat on Cutter Loose as they continue to head north along with quite a few other cruisers, some we had met before and others we hadn’t. As usual the food, the rum punch and the company was great. Even did some dancing myself this week. Back to dink – who was sloshing around in rainwater he had collected while we had been out – and so to bed.

Sunday morning and we were up pretty early and did a number of boat jobs. Then we chilled and got ready to go ashore – today is the start of Carnival here in Dominica. Oh yes, and the clouds are rolling in across the mountains again….. looks ominous. We left dink on the beach jetty rather than taking him into town and started to walk admiring the flowers that grow everywhere wild. And of course, the heavens opened….. So we ducked into the Bamboo Bar and tried to get a beer – oh no, sold out, rum punch it is then! I’m not really a rum drinker – honest – and this was so strong it wasn’t funny…. I had to ask him to water it down for me. Needless to say Richard managed to finish his without the need for any additional passion fruit juice. There was a guy on a guitar doing a live set – and we recognised him from last year. So that was a nice interlude while waiting for the rain to go away.

Eventually after about 45 minutes it looked safe to continue the walk. Arrived at the market area and bumped into Hooligan and Inspiration crews who had clearly been there for a while! So we enjoyed a few beers with them and then headed off to the other end of town to await the parade.

And it rained again. Oh well, never mind… just have to get wet. Of course, we don’t own an umbrella on the boat – although many cruisers do. Just never really felt the need – the rain here is WARM!  Eventually the parade started with the large music lorry which actually had a live band playing… and then the dancing started…. and the motorcycle club came roaring in…. and then the rain came….and more dancing…. and more drinking….. and more dancing…. and more rain…. Eventually – somehow?!? – we ended up in the parade ourselves dancing along with everyone else and then I got grabbed by a guy in a Morphsuit. Gave me a fright until I realised that it was Fabian, our dive leader! Too funny and he now answers to the nickname Mr Sperm!  The children were dressed up; the costumers were traditional; the stilt walkers were great and the music was LOUD. The whole place was rocking. We grabbed some BBQ chicken from the street vendors along our way and the heavens then absolutely opened and the torrential rain just kept on coming. We are all soaked through to the skin – literally – but hey, it’s Carnival, so we just carried on. Eventually the crowds started to get larger and rowdier – time to leave. And, oh yes, it’s only 7pm…. Back to dink exhausted and soaked – but had a great time and really enjoyed ourselves. Once back safely on board Morphie we had lovely hot showers and so to bed.

Monday morning and we went into CALLS for our first volunteering session. We had a good look around – they have an impressive nursery for the babies of some of the students – a wood machine shop, a couple of classrooms and a computer room. Richard and I were allocated students and we took them off to work with them 1:1. Richard’s lad was pretty clued up and smart – and I caught them doing some pretty advanced stuff by lunchtime. My lad was struggling and couldn’t really get his head around addition and subtraction – let alone multiplication and long division. Anyway – clearly we were both a hit – as the students asked if we could stay and do the post-lunch session with them too. Sure – why not? We both were humbled by some of the stories – abuse, violence, abject poverty, and illiteracy to name just a few. Felt really good to give something back to this beautiful island and its people. After lunch we did another hour lesson and then called it a day. It had been a very rewarding day which we celebrated by having a few sundowners at the Blue Bay before having an early night. The sunset was pretty moody again tonight…. and Alexis carried on working in the anchorage as the sun disappeared.

Tuesday and more rain. Torrential most of the day so we stayed put and did a few boat jobs and then got ready to go diving.

We had planned a sunset dive and a night dive – with the latter being at the cruise ship dock, and a promise of seahorses!  Well Fabian and Don were late – and the cruise ship hadn’t left yet. So we went off to a new site – and dropped down into the gloom to explore sand which is thermally warmed. Very strange to put your hands into hot sand down at 75 feet! Anyway…. we were diving around and the light was fading…. and the currents were pretty strong. We realised that Fabian looked a bit uncertain about the direction he was going to take – and seemed to be swimming above the reef which is unlike him. Anyway, we followed him….. and then we realised that not only were we being pushed out to sea by the current but also that we were being dragged down too…. At 120 feet (36 metres) we alerted Fabian and told him we wanted to start our ascent. We slowly ascended and took our time as our dive alarms started to go off…. and then the current released us and we started to bob up too quickly…. Oh no… dive down…. We eventually ended up with an eight minute safety stop in the blue before we surfaced – a long way from where we should have been. Luckily Don had been watching our bubbles on the surface and realised that we had ‘missed’ our turn and so had been keeping an eye out for us and then drove the boat to pick us up. Not a great experience – but just one of those things. It reinforced our buddy skills, looking after each other, and makes you less complacent of the dangers of the sport next time you go in the water. Obviously we did not go ahead with the second dive as we would have needed too long a surface interval to get us back into the safe zone.  Back on board quickly – cleaned up – and so to the bar where we had a good chat about what happened. Turned into a bit of a session along with the PAYS guys and we had a good time.

Wednesday morning back to CALLS and we were allocated the same students again as they had asked for us! How great was that? Made us feel really good. So did the first session with them and then got new students for the second session. Richard’s was, again, pretty clued up. Mine, on the other hand, didn’t know colours, shapes and could almost count up to 20 but really struggled to write them down. A real eye opener to me as he was 17. He was keen to learn and we worked really hard. What impressed me was that he could do basic maths in his head even though he struggled to write the numbers down.  So a very long road for him ahead but I’m really hoping that he stays with the programme. Hopefully my little bit helped in building his confidence if nothing else and I would have loved to spend more time doing this – such a shame that we didn’t find out about it until relatively late in our visit here. But I’m determined to spread the word with cruisers that are heading north – so hopefully they will get more volunteers as a result. Fingers crossed.

Wednesday afternoon we rushed to the PAYS hut on the beach – the Minister of Tourism and his staff had asked to meet the cruisers and the PAYS guys to see how he can help them with additional initiatives to encourage more cruisers to come and to stay longer. This all came about, partly, due to Richard’s impromptu chat with him last week. It was a pretty impressive meeting and we all felt that we had contributed and been listened to. Whether that makes any difference in terms of getting the funding that the guys need is another thing – but he seemed to get it! Only time will tell….

Wednesday night – phew this is a busy day! – and we are back on the beach to the PAYS BBQ. We weren’t going to go – but we need to support this organisation, so we decided that one more rum punch wouldn’t hurt us. Well – it was a fantastic evening – and one of the ex-CALLS students 23rd birthday, so after the BBQ we decamped to the very loud local bar next door and danced the night away. Back on board around 1.45 am – oops.

This morning, Thursday morning and we got up late…. no surprise there then!   We are staying on board today getting ourselves, and Morphie, ready to go back to sea. So a very quiet day planned and certainly not going ashore tonight!  We said all our sad farewells last night. Tomorrow – Friday – we are running down the coast to visit Roseau, capital of Dominica. Hoping for whales and dolphins on the way…. It is the time of year for them…..so all things flexible crossed!

Bye for now

Jan

We went ashore about six on Sunday evening as we thought we’d go into the local beach bar prior to going to the PAYS BBQ. We purchased a beer and were quickly driven out by the painfully loud Soca music … we are pretty used to it, especially having been to carnival, but this was mad. If you looked hard enough you could see the individual grains of sand on the beach jumping to the beat!!  Exiting left – fast – we wandered the beach to the Purple Turtle which is next to the PAYS structure. Purchased another beer here and then moved onto the BBQ itself. We started on beer deliberately as the BBQ tickets include all you can eat food and drink, but that consists of a lethal rum punch only!   So we were pacing ourselves….

Alexis – our boat boy – was helping with the cooking tonight but he came over for a little while to chat. We were surprised by how many cruisers were in attendance as there didn’t seem to be that many boats in the anchorage ….. so I reckon Eddison and his lads had done a really good selling job. Well – at EC $50 a head (£12.50) – it is pretty reasonable. Tonight Don (the diver) is the dedicated security guy in the anchorage so he has promised – in return for a rum punch – to circle Morphie at least once every ten minutes! It was really nice to hang out with the local boat boys and catch up with them. Amazing that they really do seem to remember us even though they must have thousands of boats go through here in a season….. Anyway dinner of rice / salad / chicken / fish served – and most of us went back for seconds. As much as you could eat was right….. And I had a dog friend who followed me around – who quickly realised that I would be a soft touch for leftovers. He was right of course!

After we had all eaten the tables were moved out and people either moved onto the black sand beach to chat (which was us) or they went inside to dance. This was more ‘Dad’ dancing than anything else, particularly bearing in mind the average age of the people in attendance. By now the rum had started to take its toll. One woman, in particular, was so out of it her husband tried to manhandle her into their dinghy and ended up in the drink himself…. Oh dear – in the end one of the boat boys took pity on them and helped them into his boat and gave them a ride home. Good night had by all and we got back to Morphie safe and sound…

Monday morning and we have nothing planned…. and the heavens opened. It rained on and off all day so we actually did nothing – sleeping, eating, reading and chatting. Lovely!

Tuesday we were up early to get ready to go diving again. When Don came for us Marcus – the photographer – was already on the boat so there was a little inward groan from both of us. But Aon was also on board so he was diving with him and we were diving with Fabian. Result!!!!  The first dive was to a wreck of an old tug boat, lying in about 80-100 feet of water. Loads of little critters around and beautiful corals…. and then we worked our way back towards the reef. Fabian was killing lionfish and managed to catch about six in all…. and we got a moray eel to eat one, but didn’t become the focus of the dive, which was good. Saw quite a lot of the usual suspects but my favourite this time was a spotted eel which was so sleek it looked like a sea snake…. and he had beautiful markings and very kindly stayed put while I had a good look at him. No photos again I’m afraid – way too deep. Second dive of the day was very close to the shoreline…. so it was a shallow reef that dropped off into the depths. It was a pretty damp surface interval as the rain came down again…. Oh well, never mind, we were wet anyway!

We swam out to the rocks and back and were constantly surrounded by these huge schools of fish. The corals were spectacular in colour with amazing large sponges. All very dramatic with cuts and curves, overhangs and gulleys all covered in soft and hard corals with an aquarium full of fish, some so small they were barely visible to the naked eye. It felt like we had stumbled into a fish nursery! During the dive, we came across Marcus – doing his usual photographic thing – who was getting Aon to pose for him. Aon was in the military for 14 years and did say before he went in the water that if anybody had managed to get his photo during that time he wasn’t doing his job properly – so was a pretty reluctant model! Seeing Aon being moved around for photos got Fabian, Richard and me giggling as we went by and I’m sure our dive was at least five minutes shorter as a result of the excess air used. When we surfaced we got our camera passed down to us and managed to get a few shots from just below the surface of our fishy friends.

Back on board for a quiet afternoon after cleaning off all our gear and we went ashore for sundowners at the Blue Bay grill. Met up with Fabian and had a couple of beers while we enjoyed another lovely sunset over the anchorage.

Wednesday morning we spoke to Rachel, Kiera and made noises at Finlay as he is not six months old yet.  Was lovely to do this using Facetime on the iPad – we don’t feel like we’re missing out on these special little ones growing up now.  Around lunchtime we went into Portsmouth and as Richard had “only” had bananas, papaya and mango for breakfast he persuaded me to go to Ray’s roti shack. He managed to eat his way through both a chicken and a vegetable one in very short order – I had an egg roll. After that we walked through the backstreets to find the bakery and came across loads of very very poor housing – basically traditional shacks which look like they could be blown over by the next puff of wind that comes through. And they are living alongside many large substantial concrete structures. I guess you build what you can afford?

Anyway, found the bakery and got some supplies, then off to the supermarket for a few bits – via the computer shop as I’d put together some basic income / expenditure / balance sheets for Fabian to use in his newly-registered diving business and needed to get them printed.

All jobs done and with full bellies we wandered back to the main fishing jetty. One of the boats had just come in and was unloading watched by an attentive audience. They were speaking Creole so couldn’t understand them but it sounded like they were enjoying some good banter. Well…. the fisherman had bags and bags of lobsters which he transferred into a large cage which he then dropped into the sea to keep them alive and fresh. I’m not sure when they actually sell them to the public – clearly not yesterday – but am hopeful to get some before we leave Portsmouth.

Back on board, we did some laundry before having a lazy afternoon and into the Blue Bay for a light fish supper and a couple of beers. While I was explaining to Fabian how to use the book-keeping sheets, Richard was asked by Jeffrey (who heads up the PAYS organisation) to come over and talk to this guy. Turns out to be the Dominican Minister for Tourism – who wanted to hear how they could improve things for cruisers in Portsmouth and Dominica more generally. That was a turn up for the books!  Nice to get a voice for sure.  Eventually back to Morphie for an early night although it was really really rolly again…..but we were so tired doing not much that all it did was rock us off to sleep!

Thursday and we had a late start. We ran the generator to make some water and charged everything up at the same time. After brunch we went snorkelling under the cruise ship dock – this is only for small Windjammer types, not huge ones. This is a great site with loads of brilliant-coloured corals on the poles…. Really enjoyed ourselves and, of course, we managed to get photos this time!

Back on board, cleaned up and we are staying put. Dink is up on his davits and we have just watched the sun go down…. and the moon come up. Lovely…. and planning a quiet night onboard with dinner followed by an early night.

Bye for now

Jan

After our time ashore Monday enjoying our last views of Admiralty Bay….

we went back onboard for the afternoon to get Morphie ready to go to sea…. including getting the outboard off of dink and securely fastened to the rail.  Liferaft; grab bag; food preparation; equipment checks; passage planning all done; and the last thing we did was check our lights as darkness fell – with the help of Dan and Ruth on Evensong who were anchored nearby. All working and we said sad goodbyes on the radio to all of the people we had spent time with in Bequia. We shall miss you all and hope to see you again soon!   Completely ready we went to bed.

Tuesday morning we were up early…. donned lifejackets and picked up our anchor by 5.45 am. We turned into the wind and put up our mainsail – double reefed until we tested what the conditions were like out there – and turned towards Dominica, which lies 150 miles north as the crow flies. The wind wasn’t too bad so we put out most of the genoa although the waves were bigger than forecast at about 9 feet. We were thinking about shaking out the reefs in the main – anticipating a reach all the way – and then we had a significant wind shift and, of course, not in our favour as it had a north element… So now we are in 26 knots and close hauled so put the reefs back in and pulled out the staysail too… In the middle of all this activity we were visited by a large group of dolphins who swam alongside momentarily. Unfortunately we were pretty busy and by the time we had grabbed the camera they had gone. Oh well – it was lovely to see them anyway. We said a sad farewell to Bequia as the sun came up….and we ducked our first cruise ship of the passage!

The wind and waves remained higher than forecast for most of the day and we were screaming along averaging about 7-8 knots – quickly passing St Vincent and then into the passage towards St Lucia….

But the currents were running strongly too at about 2-3 knots and we were getting pushed constantly out to sea to the west. So we tacked towards St Lucia and made a tedious 2 knots against the current to get more east….. But the boat was much flatter so took the opportunity to eat and make tea!   Having crossed our original rhumb line we then tacked back and we took off like a bat out of hell…. And then the wind died down to less than 10 knots. We carried on sailing but had to put the metal sail on in the end as we were making no headway at all in 5 knots of breeze. Then an hour or so later the wind kicked back in and we were off again…. Wow loving this, although it was pretty bouncy! We were taking it in turns to be in charge – on an hourly basis – doing the log and keeping watch etc with both of us in the cockpit.

The sun started setting so we reefed in ready for the night and donned more clothes. And now we moved into three hour shifts with the other one down below asleep in the saloon…. Richard was just about to leave me alone when I spotted another cruise ship – lit up like a Christmas tree and no navigation lights showing. And, of course, they were not broadcasting their AIS signal either…. Grrr…. We couldn’t work out what the hell he was up to so we attempted radio contact – and they didn’t answer that either. So we had to change course – to our detriment – to stay safe. As we finally passed them we realised that they were just drifting around in the current as they had time to spare before docking in the morning. Oh well…..

And the pattern was set for the night – huge winds, large rain squalls (on my watch of course!), no wind, light airs and more cruise ships and freighters to avoid…. I think Richard was a bit worried about me when he felt the boat accelerate sharply in the gusty conditions – but my whooping in the cockpit with excitement must have set his mind at rest because it wasn’t long before I heard him snoring down below again!  This was the most fantastic star studded night you can imagine with the milky way easily visible. Martinique was the busiest in terms of commercial traffic at night as well as the French coastguard cruising along the coast. Watching the sun come up while at sea is one of the must-have experiences to witness in your life!

Wednesday morning came and we are nearing Dominica … and the wind remained fickle and we had to do another tack into the current to get closer…. Then the wind died and the engine came on – then it picked up and we turned it off…. Then we had company with a huge racing yacht coming by…. and finally into Portsmouth to be met by Alexis our boat boy (man really) from last year, who remembered us and welcomed us back to Dominica. We did 172 miles in total over a period of 31 hours – and enjoyed the experience. Felt really pleased with ourselves…..

Dominica is beautiful and the anchorage at Portsmouth is notoriously tricky with loads of grass and last year there were numerous boats dragging…. so we picked up a mooring ball to give us peace of mind when we go exploring. The mooring balls here are provided and maintained by PAYS the local boat boy association who also patrol the anchorage at night for security. Great initiative and really works well.

Alexis took us into customs and we cleared in and out (covering three weeks) for the princely sum of EC $10 – about £2.50. There were a lot of French sailors in the office – usual here as Martinique is to the south and Guadelope to the north – and they were struggling with both the forms and making themselves understood.  We were trying to fill our forms in standing up as all available table space was taken and the customs girl came out from behind the counter and moved some of them on…. Didn’t go down too well – and we were given the evil eye!  Ooops….. that’ll teach ‘em for beating us at rugby. Sorry Florence Hubert, had to be said LOL!!!!

Then onto the Blue Bay grill and bar for a couple of well-deserved cold ones and to let people know we had arrived safely….and then we had an early night and slept through.

Thursday was spent cleaning and tidying the boat and ourselves up followed by happy hour ashore….. and treated to another spectacular sunset.

Friday and we are off diving with Island Dive Operation – which last year had just set up and now have a little dive shack shop on the beach.   Everyone remembered us and we had a good time catching up.  We dived Toucari and Split Rock with Fabian leading us – both dives were too deep (100ft / 80 ft) to take photos without a camera casing, which we haven’t purchased (yet)!!!!  And no buddy Dan with his either – so no photos sorry!

These sights are spectacular with huge sponges, gorgeous swim throughs threading through the sites – and watching bubbles come up like champagne through the coral we had just passed below was pretty special. Very pretty with lots of the usual suspects in attendance with my favourite being a huge crab sitting inside a sponge waiting for a critter to come swimming by!

On the dive we were joined by Marcus from Halifax, Nova Scotia, who was a photographer…. actually he referred to himself as an artist. Well he was a right royal pain in the proverbial!!! Kicking everything in his way as his sole focus was on his subject and not his buoyancy… As a vet he should know better than to damage the marine environment although, having said that, the guy who stole Nemo was a dentist! Marcus also got lost on numerous occasions where we had to stay put while Fabian went looking for him. He also never checked his air gauge the whole time we were down – and came back with less than recommended…. During the dive I had made a less than complimentary internationally-recognised hand signal to Richard about this guy not realising that Fabian had seen me do it – and struggled to keep himself composed!

Everyone was laughing about it later…. when we had a few beers together after Marcus had gone back to his holiday eco-lodge.

Saturday and we finally got dink down and the outboard installed – although it wouldn’t rev higher than idling. We looked at the troubleshooting guide and Richard did the obvious stuff to no avail. So we took a very loooooonnnnnnnggggg slooooooowwww dinghy ride into the nearest dock and went to see Fabian who organised Don to come and have a look at it for us while we were in town.

We wandered into town – it was fresh fruit and veg market day today – and enjoyed the walk…. The people of Dominica are the poorest we have come across, with many of them living in shacks and the houses largely hand-built – and one in particular was very stylised!!! The shops are not exactly stocked full and they sell an amazing variety of stuff… much of it home produced. One particular business sign for a consultancy didn’t really inspire us – with a name like NITS Richard didn’t think they would get any work in the UK!

Despite having very little the people of Dominica are by far the friendliest and, unlike last year, we didn’t encounter any beggars here in Portsmouth. Fresh bread and produce purchased we headed back to the dock and Don had fixed our outboard – salt had seized the throttle – for a very reasonable EC $50, £12.50. Later on we cleaned the rust from Morphie’s foredeck, caused by our anchor chain, and did a bit of polishing. Had a quiet evening on board and early to bed having enjoyed another beautiful Dominican sunset.

Sunday is a day of rest.  I’m sitting out of the rain down below blogging and Richard is reading in the cockpit – having installed our new canvas on the foredeck. We are heading out tonight to the bi-weekly beach BBQ organised by PAYS to support their organisation….. Really looking forward to it.

Bye for now

Jan

Thursday afternoon we headed into the beach as the weather had improved and met up with the others. Us girls bobbed while the boys camped out on the dinghies….

While we were there we spoke with Faye and Paul about the beach party arranged for Friday afternoon – and all systems go, except they are sweating on a beer delivery. Oh well…. fingers crossed. Had a really great afternoon – enjoyed the rainbow that came out, the panoramic views of the bay and finally the moody sunset before returning to Morphie for a quiet night on board.

Friday morning and up really early – Richard is picking up Alick (from the sail / canvas loft) off the dock at 9 am to come on board to make the pattern for our new cover – so I get a lift into town in dink to buy the fresh bread for tonight’s party and ingredients for my side dish. Decided on a chunky red onion and tomato salad with feta cheese, olives and pimentos – but without cucumbers because Dan has a serious issue with them!     Richard got his jobs done and came back to collect me….  Rest of the day we were pretty lazy and headed into the beach around 3.30 ish to set up the party. When we got there – with the rest due to arrive around 4 – we are told there is no beer, the delivery didn’t come!   Soooooo frustrating, as Richard had checked this morning with them and they said all was OK.  So Dan and Richard ended up shifting four crates of empties, dinked over to the brewery – on the opposite side of the bay – and back with the replacements.

In the meantime people were arriving – luckily there were some supplies in the coolers already so they weren’t really aware of the potential beer disaster – and I’m collecting money (to recover the costs we had already paid up front) and organising the table for the buffet of all the side dishes that people have brought with them. Oh yes…. and then a woman (who I have never met before as she was invited by another boat) asks me if there is any plain chicken as she has dietary issues. Said no – sorry – no one told me, all chicken has been marinated overnight in Faye’s homemade BBQ sauce. But there are hot dogs. Oh no, that won’t do either as she is gluten free. And, excuse me, but what is the vegetarian option for my husband?    OMG!!!!    We could have catered for this if anybody had actually thought to tell us – but they didn’t – so I gave her half her money back as a goodwill gesture which unfortunately reduced the tip that I had allocated for Faye and Paul – and hoped that she could find something to eat in the buffet. It was pretty tedious to listen to her questioning everybody about their dishes as she needed to know every single ingredient…. I was pretty fed up at this point – so went bobbing in the sea for a little while!   Finally – about an hour late – the BBQ pit was built and the food was underway.

Everyone was having a good time – and some cruisers brought along their instruments so we had live music. Then Faye is asking me for a dish for the hotdogs… Excuse me? Are you telling me that you haven’t got anything to put the damn stuff on when it’s cooked?????   Luckily I had bought a large foil baking tray for the bread so redistributed that onto paper plates and gave her that….. and Dan kindly went back and collected a large metal bowl for the chicken from Evensong.  Having a good time…. and we started eating…. and then Faye asked for a light as she couldn’t see what she was doing!!! This is starting to feel like some sort of comic sketch – I’m wondering if it could be a “candid camera” set-up or a test for the apprentice to see how I cope with stupid curve balls!?!?! Well… of course, being the girl guide that I once was, I did actually have a very large torch which I supplied to her and then, when she was finished cooking, I hung over the buffet table for the others. Phew…… finally time to relax….. As everyone started to drift away – all laden down with left-over goodies – they all said that they had a great time. Glad about that but I’m not getting roped into organising another one of these – ever…..!!!!   Went onboard Evensong for the final drink of the day and then back to Morphie for the night.

Saturday morning up early – got the stuff ready in the cockpit for Winfield as he should finish Morphie today – and then headed in to go diving.  Finally the sea has flattened and the wind has reduced – so we have different dive site options today. We head out to Moonhole point – where the eco stone lodges nestle into the cliff top – and do a 60 foot dive and into a cavern.

Had a great time but, again, we ended up on a lion fish hunt as they continue to try to eradicate these pests from the Caribbean.   OK – I understand – but it really detracts from the dive for me. Richard even got roped into holding the spear gun with a dead one attached while Jesse dealt with another one… It was nice to do a drift dive though – so no fighting the current to get back to the boat…. Yeah!

We had our surface interval back on land as we had to pick up more divers for the afternoon shallower dive – and Ruth turned up to supply us with pasta salad – tasty…. thanks, much appreciated.  Back on the boat for the afternoon and it was great, because the rest were all doing courses of some description, so it just left Richard, Dan, me and Putan (the dive leader) diving on our own again – and this time to the Moonhole reef. Great colours, diversity of fish, and some amazing families of lobsters lying around under the overhangs. It was really relaxed and we spent another hour in the water exploring. Doesn’t get much better than this!

Back to the dive shop and while we are washing our kit down with fresh water Ruth gets in the beers. What a star!   Had a quick one – and then rushed back to Morphie to see Winfield. When we got there he was very very quiet which is pretty unusual for him – and appeared in a bad mood. After about an hour he just put his hands up and said that he was absolutely shattered and couldn’t physically do any more work today. Damn!   He doesn’t work Sundays and we wanted to leave in the early hours of Monday so looks like that has changed…. Oh well….what can you do????  Another beautiful sunset in the anchorage as we were getting ourselves cleaned up.

Saturday night we met up with Chris and Linda from Troubadour and went out for a pizza – they are heading south shortly so it is very possible that our paths may not cross again. Had a nice evening, said sad farewells, and headed back out to the anchorage – to find we are surrounded by boats again. There is definitely something magnetic about us, I mean, why anchor in a large area when you can squeeze in near Morphie???? Grrrrrr…..

Sunday morning and into the Gingerbread for breakfast with Dan and Ruth – this was planned as it was supposed to be our last day and we would have a lot to do to get ready to go to sea. But, of course, we are not going on Monday now…..   Luckily the weather window is good right through to Thursday so we are planning a very early Tuesday morning departure.  As we are not leaving now – and the morning’s torrential rain had finally cleared – we ended up having another bobbing session on the beach, back on board for a quick clean up, and then into town for SuperBowl and another sunset.

I know….. Superbowl???? Don’t say a word! We are not American football fans – we don’t even understand it – but we were persuaded to go along as apparently the adverts in between quarters are worth watching. Well the food was good, the company was great and the adverts were very entertaining. The gang were amazed that we knew all the words to the songs that accompanied some of the adverts and so were we – we certainly did not expect to hear Slade (from the 70s) and singing along to “happy as you know it, clap your hands”!!!   How bizarre is that????   I’m afraid the football left me a little cold, although Richard enjoyed it more than he thought he would.  Ended up quite a late night….   Back on board and the wind picked up and the rain hammered down – but we slept better, thankfully.  Probably helped that a lot of the boats had moved out during the day…..

This morning and Winfield arrived.   While he was finishing off our woodwork we made some water and did some passage planning….   He finished and we headed into town for our final provisioning run ashore and a visit to customs and immigration to check out for tomorrow…..    Well the customs were at lunch so we did the shopping and ended up having lunch out ourselves.

When we get back to Morphie we need to get ready to go to sea for the 150 mile passage north to Dominica.  We are going straight past St Vincent, St Lucia and Martinique on the way – but will be dropping back south to these islands later on. Sad to leave such fun company but most people are heading north so I’m sure our paths will cross again!    One of the things we want to do this season is to push the boundaries in terms of longer periods at sea. Although we have done loads of sea miles and offshore passages / races we have always been part of a crew… So it is about time we got used to single-handed sailing when the other one is sleeping – if we are serious about going through the Panama Canal into the Pacific in the future then we need to hone these skills. We are both really excited about the prospect and are looking forward to the challenge.

Bye for now

Jan

Friday night and there was a big crowd of us in the Whaleboner for dinner…. before we decamped into safari buses to take us to the concert. Arriving at De Reef I was a bit surprised by all the security and police in attendance – but not going to complain about that! Felt very very safe…. The stage was set when we arrived and we had to buy drinks tickets – no cash over the bar. Went and got a supply and were very pleasantly surprised to find that beer was only EC $5 each… that’s about £1.25!

Well… it was supposed to start at 8.30 pm but being on island time we were not surprised when it was nearer 9.15 pm …and then there were the welcome / opening speeches including Basil (of Basil’s Bar, Mystique fame). Finally – time for the music! The crowd was arriving, although disappointed to see that this was largely made up of cruisers and holidaymakers with very few locals. Perhaps the tickets were a bit expensive at £15 a head???  Anyway there is always an exception or two – and there was one creepy looking rasta man who was trying to pull the oldest white single women he could find… Yuck – and they were falling for it – almost queuing up to dance with him!!!!

The band came on and we were entertained royally – starting slowly and they quickly increased the tempo – and the crowd responded. Everyone was dancing and we all had a really good time. The musicians were fantastically talented and all did a little solo with swapping out of different instruments and singers…. It was an amazing night and certainly one to remember. At midnight our safari bus turned up again to take us back to town, where we recovered our dinghies and went back to our respective boats. As an aside, we weren’t worried about leaving Morphie alone – although there have been issues in this bay before – because the SVG Coastguard have been doing regular patrols throughout the night and we are securely locked down and alarmed up. Anyway – pretty tired and so to bed.

Saturday morning and we had a lazy start – and the wind picked up and the rain came down. Hard!!!  Winfield came by and prepped for the next coat of varnish but, as last year, this got rained off so we had a nice chat with him anyway…. The squalls came through but by lunchtime the weather was much better so we went ashore to the beach with Ruth and Dan.  Arriving at the dinghy dock and this German guy comes out shouting at us because we had locked on in the middle of the pack – and he thought we should have gone at the end as the last arrivals!?!  Never seen that anywhere in the regs!  Anyway….we couldn’t have done that if we had wanted to because his stern anchor meant that it was too shallow to come the other side of him. Well that didn’t appease him – he was absolutely furious and went away muttering.

We were going to leave it but decided that he was so mad he could do damage to our dinghies so we unlocked them, drove off and beached them further down…. Whilst walking the beach there was a cute little crab shuffling around – although not sure I would fancy being nipped by that big claw!

Settling into a bobbing session – the heavens opened – but we were already wet so hey we carried on…. Dan was concerned about the German guy and being much more diplomatic than us, he went to Jack’s bar to find him and buy him a beer so that there were no hard feelings….. and apparently they were best buddies in about five minutes flat!

Couldn’t stay too long as we had arranged to meet Glen and Pam from Blue Pearl – finally! – for sundowners, so got back to Morphie, tidied ourselves us, and went ashore. Had a really nice time catching up with them and meeting their guests….whilst enjoying a stormy sunset and the comical sight of two young lads doing a pizza delivery!

Heading back around 8pm and we spotted another boat had anchored in front of us in our absence – 30 feet in front of our bow to be exact!  And he was way too close to the other boat in front of us as well – certainly not enough swinging room for all of us. So Richard got out the very bright LED torch, sat on the bow, and illuminated the cockpit of the offending boat. The guy got the message….came on deck….looked around and picked up anchor and moved. Phew!  During the night the wind howled and howled…… and we didn’t get a lot of sleep.

Sunday morning up very early looking around as the wind has not let up – and there are a few boats dragging or dancing around madly on their anchors.  Evensong have picked up and moved because a guy got too close to them and we have one sitting right off our bow again – he certainly wasn’t there when we went to sleep. We spoke to him and he said that he knew he was dragging but was waiting for his crew to wake up! Oh well…. we made a pot of tea and sat watching. Then his friends got up and they all sat in the cockpit chatting whilst every gust was bringing them closer… So Richard very politely asked them whether they were picking up their anchor or whether they were just going to watch it all morning!?! They got the message… and were out of there very soon after. This continued throughout the morning but finally, around lunchtime, it looked like everyone was reset and we were confident enough to go out to the music fest afternoon event.

We met Pat, Lucie, Dan and Ruth on the main dock and got another safari bus to the venue. There was a very different vibe to this event – much more a family day out with loads of locals setting up little concessions along the road with BBQs going and it was hard to see through the smoke at times…. Inside the venue there were loads of local people as well as cruisers and holidaymakers including Winfield and his wife and a number of other people that we recognised from town. Oh yes, and the creepy rasta man was there on the prowl again wearing exactly the same as he had on Friday night. Double yuck!

There was a mixed genre of music – from pan to blues to rock to soca to country and western. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves again…. particularly the chicken wings we got from one of the local roadside vendors!  We headed back to Morphie around 7pm and had an early night, not even bothering with any dinner….. Again during the night the wind howled, and howled, and howled. The forecast has changed and it looks like we are going to have this for a while. Not much sleep again…..

Monday morning and it was raining hard…. and the wind was howling up to 35 knots…. and the sea is very rough, with a marine advisory out on the local forecast. Boats are moving every which way and we have had a few more dragging incidents – luckily we are holding really well. Winfield will probably not be here to do that varnishing today!!! We were booked to go diving but really didn’t want to leave Morphie in the conditions so deferred to Tuesday and we are stayed on board most of the day.  Late afternoon it had calmed down a bit so we went ashore for sundowners and there was a big crowd of us in Tommys.  Enjoyed a couple of hours socialising – although disappointed to find out another boat had been broken into in the anchorage during the evening.  There was another spectacular sunset to enjoy being going back aboard for a quiet night. The wind picked up again but we had a better night – but we both would love to be able to sleep through rather than this three hours on/off cycle that we have got ourselves into!

Tuesday morning and we had a leisurely start getting our dive stuff together and then heading in. Dive one was pretty busy with loads of divers – and we buddied up with Dan as Ruth didn’t fancy it. This was a wreck dive and we came across a tug boat in about 60 feet of water, followed by a dead yacht….. and then onto the reef to finish off. Enjoyed it but was a bit disconcerted when the divemaster took Richard and Dan away from me to surface because they were getting low on air leaving me following the diveleader, but no buddy….. Oh well – not the best arrangement and didn’t feel particularly comfortable for some reason. Coming back ashore we met Ruth who had organised us pizza and drinks for the interval – fantastic! Then back out for our second dive and this was back to Devil’s Table……which is a muck dive to start with digging around in the grass and sand to look for little critters – and found the pink frog fish again! – and then onto the reef. Love this site and thoroughly enjoyed it – particularly the octopus and the colourful coral. Made better by the fact that there was only the three of us with a diveleader so loads of room and lots of fun with the camera – Dan does a pretty good job!

After diving we headed into the beach for sundowners as we wanted to see Faye and Paul – the local couple who have set up coolers on the beach – as we are hoping to organise a beach party with BBQ. Mission accomplished and back on board for a quiet night, pretty tired. And again the wind picked up and we had a broken sleep pattern, which is starting to get on my nerves!

Wednesday morning and we had a party planning meeting on Evensong – all sorted, just got to invite the others now – and we buzz around the anchorage to talk to people. Getting back towards Morphie we realise that Blue Pearl – who were anchored behind us – have left. Damn, missed them!   Luckily I’m sure we’ll catch up with them later on.

We then head into town to buy some groceries as Dan and Ruth are dining onboard Mophie this evening.   Back on board we clean up the boat ready to receive and get the food preparation done – an hour or so lazing about and cleaning ourselves up and then they arrive.   Have a really nice evening chatting, laughing, eating and drinking.  The wind died down during the night – although it did rain hard – so we had a better night’s sleep….  At last!

This morning – Thursday – and we are having a leisurely time doing some shopping, breakfast ashore and catching up on the internet at the Fig Tree.  Last year a big storm here in Bequia wrecked the fig tree and this year they have taken down the rest of it and carved some figures into it…..   Really impressive….   Oh yes and we have some pretty big neighbours in the anchorage!!    Probably won’t do much else today…..

Bye for now

Jan

Bye for now

Jan

Jobs done, blog done, and time to relax…. Later that afternoon we had a couple of beers bobbing at Bollheads and enjoyed the water. Quiet night on board.

Saturday morning we went into Aqua for internet – wasn’t working as the power was down. So they started up the generator and we waited…. and waited…. and ate chocolate cake – yum!! – and drank coffee…. and waited…. To no avail – so we had to abandon the idea. It feels quite weird not to have access to anything at all – even 3G on my Kindle doesn’t work! Oh well….never mind.

Later in the afternoon we met up with Patrick and Lucy (Illusions) and Chris and Linda (Troubadour) for a little beach bar pub crawl….. We started at Mr Pleasures where we were entertained by the man himself and Moses – and would have stayed longer but they ran out of beer! Next stop was to Sunset View …. and finally on to Bollheads, where we had left our dinghies. Fun time had by all followed by an early night on board.

Sunday we had a lazy day – really preparing to go to sea on Monday – and then went over to Troubadour for sundowners prior to going to Bollheads for dinner. Mr Pleasures and his merry men turned up to entertain us; great food by Tim as always, who was letting his hair down tonight; and even Chris got into the act by playing a few tunes… We had a good old fashioned sing song. What a fun evening! Sad farewells all round and back on board ready for an early start on Monday.

Monday and the forecast is for brisker winds than we envisaged when deciding to move on – but we are ready to go. So around 8am we poked our noses past the headland and hoisted the sails – heavily reefed – and headed off on the trip straight to Bequia, which is about 30 miles as the crow flies. Of course the wind is coming from the direction we want to go as usual – grrrr…. The seas were big, the currents were strong and the wind was blowing at 27 knots. We had a fantastic sail, making some great speeds, but we got relentlessly pushed away from the island by the waves and the current. Our tacks were pretty useless to get some more easting but we persevered. During our sail Richard shouted at me – look at that plane! It was a private jet coming very low over the sea straight at us – at only about 100 foot above the surface… Stomachs in mouths we watched him continuing to bear down on us at speed, he came behind us and circled around our bow, and then headed off to Mustique. So this was a deliberate buzzing! Phew – wasn’t expecting that…. and working class language was heard in the cockpit of Morphie as a result….. I really thought he was going to hit the top of the mast. Then Richard thought it could be ‘moves like Jagger’ on his way to the music festival???

Anyway, back to the sailing…. and eventually we had to decide what to do if we wanted to make it in before dark…. so ended up motoring the last five miles. Was a great day though and we covered 51 miles in total – were pretty salty by the time we arrived, but hey, who cares?!?!? We stayed aboard and enjoyed our first Bequia sunset before heading to bed very early, pretty shattered.

Tuesday morning we were up early and tuned into the cruisers net and heard that our friends Dan and Ruth, on Evensong, were here! Soooo excited…. we haven’t seen them since Martinique last year. So we quickly made arrangements to meet them on the beach for a bobbing session later in the afternoon while we got ourselves sorted out. Dinghy back in the water; outboard off the rail; stainless and wood washed down; beds changed; laundry done; into town for drinking vouchers and some fresh produce; and then to the beach. Phew! Princess Margaret beach was as beautiful as we remembered it and the water sparkling and blue. Bobbing and catching up was fun – with ‘odd’ rounds for us and ‘even’ rounds for them. We also met up with Ann and Ed from Windswept Dreams. We loved watching the stormy sunset coming through and probably stayed out a bit later on the beach than we should have. Going back to Morphie around 7 and we didn’t have a torch or had left any lights on – so finding her in this very crowded anchorage was a bit of a challenge, not to mention getting the boat unlocked! Lesson learnt…. and so early to bed after a quick dinner.

Wednesday morning and Winfield came by – we had arranged to get our varnishing refreshed whilst here – so we agreed a price and he got the lads to come over to start rubbing down. Went into town for breakfast at Gingerbread – enjoying the views and the local birds who are looking for titbits….. then onto the tourism office to get info on the music festival and decided to buy tickets for Friday night – which is Dana Gillespie and the London Blues Band plus guest artistes from the Mustique Blues Festival.

Also went into the dive shop and organised a shallow dive for Thursday to get us back into the swing of things. Whilst out and about we bumped into Glen and Pam from Blue Pearl – at last! We have been missing them by hours / days ever since we arrived back in Grenada. They were heading out to St Vincent to pick up friends, but are coming back to Bequia so hope to catch up with them properly soon!

Wednesday afternoon we went bobbing again with Dan and Ruth and were met by Patrick and Lucy from Illusions who had pulled in the day before. Was another lovely way to spend the afternoon – followed by a great dinner onboard Evensong, where Ruth was trying out local recipes. Pretty authentic results too!

Thursday morning and Winfield finished the preparation work and got the first coat of varnish on. We are sorting stuff out to go diving and realise that Richard’s computer has a dead battery – now we had a replacement kit but do you think we could find it???? No….. so a quick trip to town and he managed to get a battery so we went through the delicate process of replacing it. This is always a worry as getting it wrong means that it floods and dies on the next dive. Kitted up, went ashore, and joined the boat. Loads of divers on board but most of them were students doing qualification dives so Ruth, Dan, Richard and I were with the divemaster on our own.

Lovely shallow dive starting at 10 feet off the boat and then meandering down a sandy bottom towards the reef which drops down to about 45 feet – Dan and Ruth had some equipment failures but managed anyway…. Great dive – we saw two frogfish which is such a treat, but sadly couldn’t find the seahorse that lives in this area. There were loads of spotted eels, cleaner shrimps, schools of parrots and triggers and the usual assortment of critters – along with spectacular coloured coral and large sponges…. Just beautiful – and we had over an hour underwater which wasn’t bad for the first dive of the season!

Back to shore, organised more diving for Monday, and back quickly to Morphie to clean up before heading into town. We enjoyed a spectacular sunset and sundowners at the Whaleboner with Dan and Ruth followed by dinner at Gingerbread. Pretty tired so we didn’t go next door to the Frangipani which was kicking off the music festival with steel pan band music – not really our favourite thing. So back on board – this time with lights! – and so to bed.

It is Friday now and we are heading into town for the internet. During the night a Windjammer cruise ship has come in along with loads more boats – we have never seen so many boats in an anchorage! Looking forward to tonight and nothing much planned otherwise.

Bye for now.

Jan

Saturday afternoon we returned to Happy Island for my birthday. There was a huge crowd in – who, strangely, had bought their own food and were using Jonti’s BBQ… so I guess they must have paid him a set fee or something for the privilege. Anyway, everyone was in party mood, and we spent some time with a family from Cornwall who are taking a year off to cruise the islands. Again the weather was changeable and the wind was strong – bringing out more and more kitesurfers to entertain us. They always seem to get acrobatic as the sun starts to go down too.

Shortly after sundown Jonti called us over for our meal – and what a spread!  The food just kept coming – garlic potatoes, a huge pork joint accompanied by a variety of vegetables (which are called provisions locally), salad and fruit and an amazing onion sauce. This could have fed a family of four easily!  Anyway… we had our fill and it was delicious. We then realised that the water taxi drivers had been sat there for hours and their guests had not even offered them anything to eat – really shoddy we thought, so we gave them our leftovers. They were amazed and grateful and we were sent some extra beers and I even got a couple of dances in! Phew….about 10 pm we called it a night…and went back on board and straight to bed.

Sunday morning and we headed out to Petit St Vincent. We sailed away from Union under headsail alone and went the long way round outside of the reef to keep the sailing angle. Again the seas were pretty big but not too uncomfortable. On our way we spotted the Royal Clipper on the AIS and then it appeared majestically sailing along behind the reef. What a sight!

Arriving in the anchorage and we were amazed, again, by the colour of the sea. This is, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful anchorages in this area.

We spent the afternoon snorkelling – and were a bit surprised to see that our anchor had completely disappeared in the soft sand – followed by bobbing in our blow-up chairs. Later in the afternoon we cleaned up and headed into Petit St Vincent’s beach bar for sundowners. Enjoyed ourselves and I love the way they utilise driftwood here, although always feel sorry for the lobsters that are on death row! A great way to end the day… A windy night in the anchorage meant a rolly one – so not much sleeping going on unfortunately….

Monday up bright and early and the sky is blue again – hurrah!   Went snorkelling again – not much to see really just the usual suspects but this weird fish lying on the bottom with his wings out! He folded his wings and swam off just after we took this photo and don’t know what he is – definitely not a flying fish though! Oh yes, and while out with the camera, we checked out dink’s new hydrofoil which helps him plane at lower speeds – so faster and more fuel efficient… Doesn’t he look smart???

After snorkelling and more boat jobs, we had a spot of lunch, noting with interest that there were a couple of dinghies on the beach. This is a private island and the public are not allowed outside of certain areas – and, yes, security soon made them leave! In the afternoon, we were going to bob in the chairs again, but the clouds rolled in and it started raining. Oh well – a lazy afternoon on board and a quiet evening.

Tuesday and we moved on again – this time to Chatham Bay, back on Union Island. The wind direction is perfect for us to sail through the gap in the reef and harden up to get around the corner – so the headsail is out and we enjoyed the best sail of our trip so far. Beautiful seas with winds between 15-20 knots and no rain squalls…. Just plain perfect.

All too soon, however, it was over and we had arrived in Chatham Bay. We love this laid back place. Got ourselves anchored and Richard snorkelled it to make sure we have a good set – this is an anchorage notorious for its strong winds so we have a lot of chain out…. Well, the mistake I made was letting him take the camera with him, so while I’m fussing around checking everything is set he’s taking snorkelling selfies and views of Morphie never seen before!

We then went ashore to the Aqua Resort – not really keen on this place but it is the only way we can get the internet and having been offline now since Saturday morning, wanted to just check all was OK. Was nice, because I picked up some more birthday messages….. thanks everyone….. Back on board and we did more jobs before going ashore around 3ish – and straight into Bollheads to see the gang. Although we were hoping for some bobbing time, the weather turned against us again as the rain came down. Oh well…. But Tony, Shauna and Tim were delighted to see us again and we had a great time catching up with them and Tim cooked us some of his most amazing fishcakes as a treat. (Ron and Carolyn please note – they are still delicious!). Enjoyed the sunset and were back on board around 6.30 pm for a quiet night.

During the night the wind howled – as expected – but there were strange noises coming from the anchor chain as we swung around. So a couple of times Richard went out to check everything and all was well – we think it was just snatching so we led out another 40 foot of chain…. It was a gorgeous moonlit night though although the photo really doesn’t do it justice. So another restless night – and we are both pretty tired!

Wednesday morning and we were up bright and early – and did more boat jobs like laundry and making water. Oh yes, Richard had to go back to Aqua to retrieve our dinghy padlock which he had dropped into the sea yesterday!   Didn’t let him have the camera this time…. We eventually went ashore around 4pm and did a beach bar crawl. The first bar – called Mr Pleasures – was very local and near the fisherman’s village. Really friendly people and we enjoyed chatting with them. One of the guys – called Stress – had caught an iguana in the morning and it was bubbling away in the pot. So Richard, getting in practice for “I’m a Celebrity Get Me Out of Here”, decided that it was worth a taste. No, it doesn’t take like chicken! It was strong and tough as old boots – and I nearly gagged watching him chew on the green lizard skin…. Yuck although the local guys were very impressed that he ate it!   Later on we moved to Sunset Bar and bumped into some cruisers that we had met recently in Carriacou. Had a bit of a laugh and then wandered off on our own to have an early dinner at Bollheads…. Fantastic spread as always – thanks Tim!  Amazing what he can turn out with the very limited facilities that they have behind the scenes.

Another sunset and this time with a cruise ship coming into anchor behind us for the night. Who needs the moon when these guys light up the anchorage for you????

Thursday morning and we have a bit of a lay in…. followed by some boat jobs. I’m keen to clean up the stainless along the guard rail, the rub rail and the deck fittings – so get in dink and manage to get half of it done. The rest can wait until tomorrow as we are supposed to be ashore for 1pm at Bollheads today. They have very kindly invited us to join them for their staff lunch (at no cost). What an honour and pleasure it was – fantastic food too. Really really local – callalou soup (think spinach) which was the base for a stew which contained plaintain, carrots, home-made dumplings, pigs tails and chicken wings… All on the bone of course… so lots of eating with hands followed. We had a really nice time.

After lunch we went off to Aqua again as we want to check the weather forecast in preparation for our next sail direct to Bequia. The weather actually is vastly improved with the odd shower and potentially stronger winds overnight Friday into Saturday – but any other day would be good for passage making…. Coming back to Morphie we spot that Troubadour have just anchored – so we went over to say hi and then went ashore for happy hour and caught up with all the other cruisers, who all knew each other from before. It was great to see Linda and Chris again.

After a great happy hour, we then walked back on our own down the beach to Bollheads for sundowners. We enjoyed another spectacular sunset and then as we were leaving Tim ran out with a huge pot of the callalou stew for us to take back onboard – so guess what we had for dinner on board too?!? Fantastic tasting stuff…. and, with bellies full, we had an early night.

It is Friday now and we have decided to leave for Bequia on Sunday or Monday – providing the forecast sticks. So this morning I have finished the rest of the stainless and Richard has done a couple of other jobs…   We are in Aqua again now to publish this and are hoping for some beach bobbing time real soon!

Bye for now

Jan