Living on the hard in Opua, New Zealand

Monday night the queue was huge for the fish and chip takeaway shop and that also meant that we couldn’t get a drink either as the Easter alcohol rules continued to be enforced.  So we decided to go to one of the smarter restaurants on the waterfront called 35 degrees.  The food was by far the best we had had and we thoroughly enjoyed our meal washed down with a lovely bottle of local Sauvignon Blanc.

Tuesday morning we were up early and on the boat by 8 as we were expecting some guys from SeaPower. They arrived on time and promptly removed the fuel injectors which came out easily but the stuffing gland was a different story.

Up and down the ladder he went with different tools eventually realising the thread had been crossed. Basically it was not worth “repacking” as it would probably give us problems going forward so they recommended we go down the Volvo type instead which is a more modern version. Happy with that he went off to order it and left us alone again with the boat looking like a bomb had hit it!

We managed to clear our cabin out and find new places to store stuff mainly into the space vacated in the starboard lazarette by the fuel cans which, now that we had finished cleaning the topsides, we could reinstate so that was our final job for the day.

Back to the motel for our last night – so we packed up everything we could – and went back to Jimmy Jacks for dinner. Basic fare but we enjoyed it…..

Wednesday morning we were up very early and did a quick stop at the supermarket – just for essentials like bread, eggs, milk, butter and some drinks. Whilst on the hard we have no refrigeration (as both the fridge and freezer units are keel cooled) so we don’t want much more than that. We arrived at the boat yard and lugged all the bags up the ladder to Morphie. We then cleared out the car and returned it to the hire company who have a base here in the marina. We picked up some ice and turned our freezer into a cool box….

We worked hard unpacking and making the bed whilst reorganising things again….and, eventually, in the afternoon we were pretty clear so we went and collected our canvas from the store where it had been repaired, valeted and re-waterproofed. We then put all the canvas on so we had some protection in the cockpit.

Wednesday night we headed to the Opua Cruising Club and had dinner and a couple of drinks. It was very quiet apart from some people who were having a darts competition – not 301 or 501 as we know it – and we politely declined although might be tempted in future if we are here long enough LOL.  After a few hours we walked back to the boatyard and settled down to our first night on board.   We decided we would not eat in the Cruising Club every night as most of the menu consisted of fried food and we wanted to be a little healthier than that….

Thursday morning we got up early and I went for my daily shop at the Opua General Store. I managed to get chicken and lots of fresh vegetables for dinner so very happy about that!

We visited Cater Marine and decided upon our new dinghy which, according to the specifications, is 16kgs lighter than dink.  We could have had an even lighter one than that but we needed a certain size to fit across the back of our arch….but the new Highfield UltraLite that we have chosen does have a lower profile so we are hoping it will fit better on the bow for future long passages.

In the afternoon Hans came by and delivered our new electronics and gave us a talk through all the cabling. All very simple to him as he does this for a living but it’s going to take us a while to get our head round. The plan is that we are going to pull all the cables through the arch replacing the old stuff as we go – but we won’t start this process until we are in the water as it is just too dangerous when we are elevated above a hard ground.

During the day the guys came back and re-installed the serviced fuel injectors and the new Volvo stuffing gland…so we are ready to splash hurrah!   Everything else can be done in the water going forward. We have organised our slip in the marina and have paid for a month’s live aboard so everything is good to go. The marina is under construction and is being extended around us so we are never bored watching the activity around us….and here comes an Oyster out for a bottom clean….

Thursday night we had a quiet evening on board enjoying the sights of the marina around us.

Friday we did more cleaning down below and thoroughly compounded and polished the gelcoat in the cockpit. We then considered more wiring diagrams … and discussed what arch risers would be best for which items as some of the cables can be extended others not.  All very complicated but we think we have it sorted in our heads at least LOL.

We will probably also need someone to help us with the new radar cabling through the mast and, potentially, we might need to get some modifications made to the existing stainless cradle to accommodate the new radar. Oh yes and North Sails have finished valeting the sails so they are ready to be delivered to the boat on Wednesday – something else to tick off the list. SeaPower also confirmed that they have a new starter motor, a new alternator and our old repaired/serviced autopilot waiting for us too – we’ll also take this from them once back in the water as Richard doesn’t fancy carrying all this heavy gear up the ladder!

Saturday we cleaned all the stainless steel below the capping rail which involved Richard moving a heavy platform around and me climbing up and down to reach the areas. Was very hard work and, when we finished, we called it a day and headed to the cruisers lounge for long hot showers. On the way we spotted this huge marlin which had just been landed on a local small fishing boat – the boys seemed pretty happy with themselves!

We returned to Morphie and relaxed before having another quiet night in the cockpit. Morphie is looking really sparkly now…..

This morning, Sunday, we had a lazy start. We decided to get the anchor chain out of the locker so Richard could do some maintenance on the windlass. Remember this was only installed brand new last July in Tahiti and has not been used much since. And, of course, it failed to work!!!! Sigh…. We know that our batteries are very old and need replacing so it is possible that they just do not have enough “umph” to get it to work – but will need someone to help us trouble shoot it. Oh well, one step forward….

Later on we are heading to the Cruising Club for one of their famous Sunday roast dinners – can’t wait!  We splash on Wednesday so we’re looking forward to not living up a ladder for much longer;  not having to pee in a bucket any more;  and being able to do a proper shop once the fridge and freezer are operational again. Not very exciting but we are getting there!

Bye for now

Jan

Our return to New Zealand

Having arrived early Sunday afternoon into Singapore we collected our bags from the Thailand flight.

We then promptly repacked them as the Qantas hand luggage limit was significantly more than JetStar so we could carry everything we wanted this time, plus a change of clothes for our layover in Melbourne.  Ready to go we followed the signs for the premium check-in area for our next flight with Qantas. We were travelling business class so, although we had a seven hour stopover, we knew we had access to the lounge from 2.30 pm onwards. So all was well….

Or at least it was until we tried to check in!   The entry rules for New Zealand state that you have to have a departure flight from New Zealand to be allowed in. Well, we knew in advance about that, and that is why the NZ customs and boatyard issued us with appropriate documentation prior to our departure last November. So we were pretty confident we had it all covered….we carried our UK boat registration documents too for completeness.

Of course this is where it all went pear shaped. The computer said ‘no’ as we didn’t have a departure flight/date and refused to issue baggage tags or boarding passes. We were then told we would have to wait for the Qantas service desk to open….would we like to go have lunch and return? Laden with bags the answer was no – we didn’t want to be out of sight out of mind – so we plonked ourselves down right in the middle of the area. At 3.00 pm (an hour and a half later) the girl phoned again – this time the desk was going to open at 4.  We were getting the run-around….so Richard went off to find the service desk himself. He did – and yes it was unmanned. So we sat and waited again…..very frustrating and I admit to getting a bit teary at times…..and was definitely not a “premium” experience.  I guess this is what happens when you outsource the check-in process for 17 airlines to one company as they can only follow a script. This was the first time they had come across this situation alledgedly…..

Anyway….eventually….after over three hours the Qantas service desk opened and our girl was told to phone New Zealand immigration to check with them. If they confirmed they were happy with our story then they would give her override codes for the system…..sigh….so Richard had a very long and detailed conversation with NZ immigration who, eventually, agreed to let us travel. OMG what a nightmare!!!!

So luggage finally checked and boarding passes in hand we took ourselves off to the lounge. This was a delight and we settled in and had a few recuperative glasses of wine. Then we started on the food – freshly prepared by an on-site chef – which was absolutely delicious. Was a very nice way to spend a few hours after our earlier trauma!

We boarded the double decker plane later that evening and took our seats upstairs and had our first champagne of the day. The seats were very nice and comfortable including duvets and sleep suits for the eight hour flight. We thought the service was a bit slow and the food offering very poor – good job we had stocked up in Singapore LOL.

We arrived into Melbourne very early Monday morning and got through immigration quickly – we then wandered to the ParkRoyal Hotel which is connected to the international terminal by a walkway. We checked in but our room wasn’t ready so we sat in reception for a while….and eventually got our room key for an eight hour stay. The room was a bit shabby for the cash but hey, we needed a break!   We enjoyed the luxury of a nice bed to laze on, a TV to watch, lovely hot showers and a change of clothes.

Suitably refreshed we returned to the terminal and, already armed with boarding passes, we cleared security through to the business lounge in preparation for our flight to Auckland. The lounge was a disappointment after Singapore – OK seats and wine but terrible food offering!   By this time we were pretty hungry…..

Eventually we boarded our flight to Auckland and settled into the very nice spacious seats. The service was much better on this short flight – with our wine glasses being topped up very often – and a good menu. The explanation of the food, however, crafted by their head chef was all a bit pretentious and the offering really didn’t match the hype LOL. Never mind….it wasn’t very long before we arrived in Auckland early Tuesday morning.

We expected problems with customs and immigration as we weren’t the normal holiday travellers with return tickets in hand – but we were in the system after our previous telephone conversation and were cleared through incredibly quickly. We collected our bags…..and then repacked them all again. The luggage allowance for Air New Zealand was, once again, different and we needed to check three bags to get them all under 23 kgs each and our hand luggage in line with the domestic policies. So more faffing….

Anyway…..we got organised….and walked around to the domestic terminal. This is supposed to be a 15 minute walk but I think it is nearer 30 minutes. There is a shuttle bus apparently but we haven’t managed to find one yet LOL.

We checked our bags in and sat….and sat….and sat. No lounge for us this time as we were on the cheapest economy tickets and so we waited. There was an earlier flight to the Bay of Islands but when I asked if we could transfer to this one we were told our tickets were not transferable – basically we would have to buy them all over again – so we decided to sit it out. People watching was interesting….and the wait was long in our exhausted state.   Lots of Ed Sheeran tee-shirt wearing fans waiting to board Gisborne flights as he was playing there this weekend.

Eventually at 2pm we boarded our last very short flight of the epic journey to Bay of Islands – Kerikeri airport. We were delighted to arrive – collect our baggage – and pick up the shuttle bus to our motel. We had booked into this motel for a few nights while we got ourselves organised. The room is basic with a small kitchenette and wet room attached so all was well.   As we were being dropped off I overhead one snooty woman tell her husband that she “couldn’t possibly stay here”.  So I just casually dropped it into conversation that we were here for six months and this was our temporary base whilst we got our yacht ready to go back to sea…..  Her attitude changed immediately LOL…  That was definitely naughty and a verbal ‘up yours’ but she shouldn’t have picked on me in my tired state!

We crashed into bed late afternoon and that was it for the night!

Wednesday morning we were up very early and drove off in our hire car (which had been delivered the night before by Rent a Dent, which really is the name of the hire company) to see Morphie. She was looking in good shape and we were very pleased to see her again.

We unpacked bags and moved things around to clear the back cabin as we need to access under the bed as the stuffing gland is going to be repacked.  We visited the trades and paid some of our debts….we just need to organise collecting some of the things we had ordered in advance. The only thing we were interested in at this stage was the bottom paint and organising the sander from the boat yard. Although this is a self-service yard dry sanding is not allowed without a vacuum attached to protect other boats – which was fine by us!

Wednesday afternoon we returned to our motel for a break. We did some laundry and got ready for a night out in Paihia. The Dolphin Motel is only a few minutes walk from all the restaurants and the waterfront so it is ideally located.

We wandered the waterfront and stopped off at the Swordfish bar. We enjoyed the view but the food offering didn’t appeal so, later on, we went to a craft beer and kitchen restaurant – the ambience was lovely, service was fine but the food was really pretty poor for the cash!  What a shame….

Thursday morning we headed back to Morphie very early and taped up around the awlgrip. Richard sanded the whole hull while I took my time on the propeller.

We finished mid-afternoon so we did some more tidying down below – including getting all the crew out of their lockers LOL – and then called it a day. We decided to go to Jimmy Jacks for dinner – a ribshack – and enjoyed a meal between the two of us and a few draft Tiger beers. Was very nice sitting on the pavement watching the world go by. Back to the motel for another early night.

Friday morning we were back to the boatyard again and started anti-fouling in earnest. Have to say neither of us particularly enjoyed this!   We worked hard all day….and finished the whole boat by around 6pm. Note my full protective gear compared to Richard – but I think I still managed to get more paint on me than he did LOL.

By the end of the day we were absolutely shattered so got some beer and a takeaway pizza at the local store and returned to our motel. Had a lovely restorative shower and an early night.

Saturday morning both of us were pretty knackered and stiff but Morphie needed a second coat. So we just pushed on…..and finished her second coat….plus a third coat on the leading edges and water line. We also painted the propeller with Barnacle Buster – something they don’t sell or use here in New Zealand. The store are, however, going to see if they can source some more for us.

Saturday night we headed off into town. The place was buzzing – guess we kind of forgot that it was Easter when we made our plans – and we fancied a curry. So we had to queue up and wait to get a table in the local Indian restaurant. It was worth the wait and we had an excellent meal, although a tad expensive compared to the UK. Afterwards we went to the local sports bar and chatted to an interesting local Maori….and listened to the karaoke. Richard was treated to his first Maori Hongi where the breath of life is exchanged and is equivalent to a formal handshake. No other visitors in here so clearly a bar for the locals – we had fun!

Sunday morning we carefully removed all the tape from Morphie and cleaned the Awlgrip line. This painted strip is in relatively poor condition after a bad paint job in Grenada many moons ago, so this will probably be it’s last season. But giving it a good scrub with cleaning compound and a ‘protect’ layer gave us a pretty shiny finish!

After that was finished we moved to the topsides and gave them a scrub with boat wash.   We did some more tidying down below before heading back to the motel. Later on we wandered the restaurants and decided on pasta. Well, the meal was average at best and we didn’t like the craft beer either. We left – still hungry after the very small portions – and thought we’d stop at Jimmy Jacks for a plate of chips and a beer. However, being Easter Sunday, no beer was being served anywhere without a full meal…and the supermarket although open wasn’t allowed to sell alcohol either – felt like being back in the UK in the 50s LOL!!!

This morning, Monday, we were a bit slower getting going. We compounded the gelcoat on the topsides and have called it a day at that.   She looks pretty good just with this bit of tender loving care – will look even more amazing once we give her topsides a ‘protect’ coat too!

We are now in the Cruisers Lounge blogging and catching up on the internet. This evening we might try fish and chips?!?  The food here in New Zealand is familiar but, actually, we haven’t been that impressed yet….other than the pies, of course, which we have succumbed to a couple of times from the local bakery.

And so the boat jobs go on….. We are moving back onboard on Wednesday – and hoping not to be living on the hard for more than a week – but we’ll see….

Bye for now

Jan

Exploring Phuket – part 2

Tuesday we had another day by the pool…..very nice!   In the evening we wandered back to Bangla Road, ate at a local restaurant, and sat and people watched. We were constantly being hassled by local hawkers and, this time, we gave in. Richard got a young girl to make him a Morpheus wrist band and I got another bangle.

We should have done this sooner as we just showed our latest purchases to everyone else that came behind and they left us alone LOL. We had dinner at a local restaurant followed by a couple of beers in Mollys listening to live music before heading back to our hotel.

Wednesday we went on a fast catamaran day trip. We relaxed in our room for a while in the morning awaiting our 11.30 am pick up. We travelled to Ao Por Grand Marina and were met by our tour company who then issued us with sarongs, towels and beach shoes for the day and we settled down to a buffet lunch while we waited for other guests to join us. Once everyone was there we were taken down to the docks and boarded the boat, settled into the seats, and the captain took off. It was interesting (well it was for us!) that they had a chart plotter repeater in the main saloon. We watched the captain ramp up the speed and the depths were pretty shallow, which reminded us of the Bahamas.

We enjoyed the spectacular scenery along the way before we made our first stop at La Wa Island. We had hoped for a beer bobbing session but no alcohol was served on the island as it was part of the Phang Nga national park. Never mind…..it was lovely to just bob around in the Andaman Sea.

Back on board – being transported by a traditional long boat – we took off again to Hong Island. Here we were taken by kayak through the limestone tunnels and caves. Very serene place despite the huge numbers of other tourists LOL.

Back to our mother ship and we had a beer on board while we travelled to James Bond island for some photo opportunities. Again more stunning scenery. This place is just plain beautiful.

On the return trip we went very very slowly……seeing one cruising couple enjoying the sunset on the bow of their boat at anchor…..and watched the sun disappear into the clouds. Shame we didn’t get the perfect sunset but it was still beautiful.

We sped back to the marina and then were fed a buffet dinner. We had lots to eat and my stomach didn’t react so looks like that episode is behind me, thankfully! Enjoyed the company of a couple of Australians before we all took off in our different minibuses back to our hotel. We got there about 9pm and we were exhausted from having been out in the weather all day so just had an early night.

Thursday we had another leisurely pool day before heading out to see the Siam Niramit show. We watched a few exhibitions and tried a few samples of local food before heading to the main courtyard to see some parades. Richard even took part in a tug of war with an elephant LOL.

After that we headed into the main auditorium for the show. This was absolutely amazing….stunning costumes….fantastic back drops….a real tale of the history of Thailand. There was even a flowing river, some thunderstorms, pyrotechnics and lots of people flying around. A real West End type production. Really glad we took the opportunity to see this.

After the show we posed for a few pictures with the cast before we were returned to our hotel.

On arrival we decided to go out on the town. We headed towards Bangla Road and found a local restaurant that took our fancy so had some dinner first. Then we walked through the madness stopping for the odd beer or two. Was fun!

Friday we were heading out mid morning to visit the Elephant Sanctuary. This place is where they allow elephants to be elephants. It was very sad to hear the stories of how they are mistreated in Thailand – particularly how their spirits are broken when they are babies – to end up in trekking camps / logging camps / or in the entertainment industry (just like the night before – damn).  Most of this is done by violent means until the elephants behave. Once they outlive their usefulness the owners keep them tethered and often don’t feed them enough so they end up dying a very slow and painful death. The Sanctuary are trying to change mindsets and rescue as many as they can but as the King himself has his own elephants it doesn’t look like any change will come soon. Sigh…..

One of the old girls we met had been working for 70 years – thankfully she is now enjoying her retirement having been rescued by the sanctuary. Our role for the afternoon was to be keepers for the day so we fed them, we hugged them, we covered them and ourselves in mud, we scrubbed them, we rinsed them off and put them to bed. Was a very special way to spend the day. Sadly at the point of publishing this blog the official photos of our afternoon have not yet been put on their Facebook site so you’ll have to do with the few that we captured ourselves.

After we came back and got ourselves cleaned up (literally!) we headed out for our last night on the town. We wandered Bangla Road again and this time we ate in the night market. Then we did a mini bar crawl before finally returning to our hotel in the early hours of Saturday.

Saturday morning we had a late start and then lazed by the pool for the day. Later in the afternoon we got ourselves packed up and then headed to Sam’s Steakhouse, which is part of our hotel. We had the most amazing meal for our last night in Thailand.

Sunday morning we were up at the crack of dawn and in a taxi to the airport by seven – the roads were surprisingly busy for a Sunday so it took about an hour.  We had our checked bags shrink wrapped as we know that Phuket airport has a bit of a reputation for things going missing. Then we dropped them off, ate the contents of the hotel’s supplied breakfast box, and headed through security. This took a while and by the time we got through airside our gate was open so we went straight there.

Eventually they started boarding….so we got on the bus…..across the tarmac and climbed the stairs. We settled in and we took off on time.

Goodbye Phuket.   We had a great time and may be back another day to explore some more.

Our first flight of the day was pretty uneventful and we landed into Singapore about an hour and a half later. The rest of the epic travel adventure will follow shortly!

Bye for now

Jan

Exploring Phuket – part 1

Thursday we continued relaxing by the pool.

Later on we headed to our hotel lobby to meet the Govatos family. We had a lovely time in a nice Indian restaurant nearby and caught up on news. They are moving to Phuket shortly and are also looking for another boat so hope to get back on the high seas soon. Was a fun time and we wish them well in their future adventures.

After they had left we wandered into town. We stumbled across Bangla Street – the famous party place – and we were both a bit surprised by how ‘in your face’ it was. We were constantly pestered by hawkers selling anything you could imagine and lots of people offering signs to advertise ‘ping pong’ bars or ‘live ****ing shows’ and everything in between. It seemed weird that these people also appeared to target couples rather than the numbers of single men wandering around. Most bars facing the street had pole dancers too……

There were a lot of western men of all shapes, sizes and ages with beautiful girls on their arms…..and we were trying to work out whether they really were girls or not in this land of the ladyboy LOL. We sat in a bar down a quiet side street and just people watched for a while.  Slightly overwhelmed by all the madness we eventually wandered back towards our hotel and had a relatively early night.

Friday morning we went for a walk along the beach road shopping and had some fun bartering with all the little shop keepers who are selling pretty much the same things.

We managed to get Richard a hat and a new waterproof bag in preparation for our planned speedboat trip as we had left these all on Morphie. Oh well, guess you can never have too many!  Later on we returned to the hotel for a few pool hours.

Finally after a restorative few hours in our air conditioned room we headed out for the evening. We found the big mall and enjoyed wandering through here and watched fried ice cream being made – basically they chop up ice cream with things like Smarties / chocolate etc onto a hot plate. Then when all chopped up into a mush they spread it over the cold plate and then roll it up. Very labour intensive….but looks very tasty….although Richard did think that most ice cream would have aluminium in it with all the vigorous chopping and scraping going on LOL.

We stopped at a local Thai restaurant for dinner and thoroughly enjoyed the food.

We then wandered through the Bangla Road again and weren’t quite so shocked as before – I think you get acclimatised to the madness and are able to turn a blind eye once you know what is going on. We found another small bar tucked away and watched the antics of the girlie staff who were trying to entice men in – one of them was so blatant she just grabbed them by their privates – and it was funny to watch men run off as a result LOL.

After this we headed back towards our hotel and came across an Irish pub called Mollys – we wandered in attracted by the loud music – and ended up staying late. They were really good!

Saturday morning we were up really early and were ready and waiting in the lobby by 8.15 am. On the dot of 8.30 am the little minibus turned up to take us across the island to Chalong pier. We were put into groups – according to which tour you were taking – and we were introduced to the rest of the ‘Monkey’ gang….all Japanese, Thai and German.

We boarded our speedboat and put on our life jackets as instructed. Felt very strange to be on a tourist boat…..

First stop was Racha Yai for some snorkelling. I couldn’t snorkel because my prescription mask is stored on Morphie (must try and plan this better next time) but, to be honest, there were so many boats and tourists I doubt whether many fish would have come out to play. So we just bobbed in the deep water near the stern of the boat.

Back on board we enjoyed some fruit before we took off again – this time to the beach we could see from the snorkelling anchorage. We tied up, momentarily, to a floating pontoon and wandered down to the beach.

We were looking forward to sitting at the beach bar enjoying a few cold ones in the shade only to find out it was open to hotel guests only. This resort – which looked deserted – have definitely missed a trick here as the crowds from the boats were significant. There were some people making money though – from renting beach chairs, umbrellas, huge floating toys and, sadly, baby monkeys being touted around for cuddles and photos.

We purchased some cans of beer from the corner shop and bobbed in the beautiful clear water before returning to our speedboat.

Back on board we headed over to Banana Beach on Koh Hey. We enjoyed watching some boats sailing around – but very few were private – they mostly seemed to be crewed day trip boats. We arrived and tied up alongside the floating pontoon. This was huge and, as the tide was coming in, the pontoon was being picked up and down by the surf so we walked along surfing down waves LOL.  Must be a nightmare for those with walking difficulties!

We arrived to our allocated table for lunch and were surprised by the amount they gave us – from squid soup through to fried chicken with chips. We tucked in and enjoyed the food but sadly wasted loads. We then took ourselves off to a couple of beach chairs and planned to bob again later but swiftly fell asleep.

We awoke to find it was 10 minutes before we were going to be picked up and that the tide had now gone out – so the walk down the pontoon was much easier and we admired the boats coming and going, including tourist longboats.

We boarded our boat and managed to grab a seat in the bow for the fast ride back.

We returned to Chalong pier having had a nice day and treated ourselves to a Durian icecream – very very smelly fruit (think mix between poo and vomit) but apparently a local delicacy. Well the icecream was nice but I started to feel ill just eating it – so Richard finished mine off too.

Back on the minibus to our hotel and I felt bloated and uncomfortable – by now Richard was feeling the same. So we went to bed for a few hours….

At 8pm we got ourselves cleaned up and headed out – still not feeling completely well – to the Drunken Leprechaun Irish pub to celebrate St Patrick’s Day.  Can you believe how short the Thai Leprechauns are LOL!  We had a pint but didn’t particularly enjoy the live music.

So we took ourselves off back to Mollys. The same band were playing and they were great – but we both felt ill – so after just a single drink we headed back to our hotel.

During the night we were both violently ill…..and were still feeling under the weather on Sunday.  We had a basic breakfast and did our laundry in the hotel’s laundromat.   Note to self – do not eat local ice cream ever again!!!!

Later on we returned to the pool for a few hours.   In the evening we were going to go out but I couldn’t venture far from the hotel, just in case, so we decided to have dinner at the Terrazzo restaurant, which is part of our hotel.   We had a nice meal and then retired to bed.

Monday morning, after visiting our in-house tour guide and booking a few more trips, we decided to stay by the pool again and had a really nice time bobbing in the little ‘spa’ pool and enjoying a beer.

Later on we headed out to see the famous Simon Cabaret show.   The cast are 100% men but you wouldn’t believe their costumes and figures…..   Can see how the tourists get hoodwinked LOL.   The show was fun, the miming wasn’t great and the dancing was OK – but the spectacular costumes made up for it.   Glad we saw it.

Today, Tuesday, we are having another lazy day…..

Bye for now

Jan

Exploring Singapore – part 2

Monday morning we rode the bus again.

We did the brown line through different parts of the city and then the green line down to Sentosa Island. Sentosa is like being in Disney…..there are theme parks, lots of activities, beaches, free local buses, segways  combined with Universal Studios etc. All very fake and we didn’t venture into any of the parks – we took the little tram ride and stopped off for a beer at a beach restaurant overlooking the huge ships anchored off. Again, even the beach we think was man-made…..

Back to the City we took the red line bus again to explore China Town. We wandered around and found another Michelin-recommended food court and ate one of Singapore’s signature dishes – Hainanese Chicken Rice. Was pretty tasty but not sure we’d repeat the experience LOL. After another late lunch we returned to the hotel for a couple of hours.

In the evening we walked the river to Boat Quay which is a popular destination for both fresh seafood and pubs / restaurants lining the river. We enjoyed a few beers and got chatting to some new friends from London LOL. After a good night we walked back to the hotel and didn’t actually get to bed until 2am. Phew was a long day!!!

Tuesday morning – after a restorative breakfast and coffee in the local mall – we headed off on the MTR to the Marina Bay Sands area. We visited the Art and Science Museum – which is inside the iconic lotus flower building surrounded by lily pads – and then wandered the mall. This is absolutely huge and very high end with the usual array of Gucci, Prada, Versace etc with many floors and amazing laser light chandeliers.

Shopping not really our scene we took a lift up to the Ce La Vi bar on the 58th floor of Tower 3 of the hotel and enjoyed a few glasses of bubbles whilst admiring the most amazing scenery from the port, to the Gardens and across to the City. Plus, of course, our hotel. This was a tip from our airport taxi driver – use the bar and pay S$20 each to access which is then offset against any food or drink ordered. Going up to the observation deck restricts you to just a small part of the hotel roof with no amenities. Great tip!!!

We then crossed the road to the Gardens by the Bay and thoroughly enjoyed the huge Supertree Grove (which is lit at night) and the Skyway. Stunning structures made even more amazing by the natural foliage climbing and flowering up their bases. We did take a selfie but not our best efforts as we are both hot, bothered and squinting at the sun.

Oh yes as well as lots of flowers there were some art installations. Check out this baby boy LOL.

After this we felt a bit jaded so returned again to our hotel.

Later on – our last night in Singapore – we headed off to another recommended food court which sits on the waterfront. More up-market with its proper cutlery and corporate branding on the plates whichever stall you used. My mission was to find some roasted duck – another Singaporean speciality – and Richard decided to have Thai. Really enjoyed it. After dinner we had a beer at a local hostelry and then returned to our hotel.

We enjoyed Singapore a lot and can only marvel at its empty roads, it’s amazing cheap transport systems and its cleanliness. The sights are wonderful, the food is amazing and the people are lovely. It was a fantastic experience.

Wednesday morning we were up bright and early and packed our bags. We put the minimum stuff in our hand luggage cases as, although they were within the size limit, our next flight with Jetstar only allowed 7kg each.. This includes hand bags and computer bags so more restricted than we had realised.. So we packed / unpacked / packed / weighed / unpacked / packed until we had just about achieved it….but only by putting some important things in our checked baggage with some trepidation. Oh well…..we finally checked in our bags which with all the mucking around had risen to 28kgs each….phew!

We then wandered off to find our lounge but only to be told they didn’t supply food at this venue. We headed off in search of food and managed to get some western fare but the time it took was quite something. Never mind….. We then wandered back towards our lounge to see that our gate had opened and we were being told to go straight there. So no lounge for us LOL. We got to the gate and boarded along with lots of Russians, Germans, Japanese and Australians.

The flight was uneventful and we landed into Phuket, Thailand, on time. We got a cab straight to the hotel, checked in and was pleasantly surprised by our refurbished room and went to the Manager’s cocktail party which we had been invited to upon our arrival.

Today – Wednesday – we are lazing by the pool recharging our batteries and are meeting the Govatos family this evening for dinner. This family lost their boat on a reef in Huahine, French Polynesia and we haven’t seen them since. What a coincidence that we are here at the same time. Really looking forward to catching up.

Bye for now

Jan

Exploring Singapore – part 1

Thursday afternoon we arrived at Heathrow in good time and queued up for the bag drop which seemed to take a while but eventually we were into the security area and finally spat out the other end. By now we had a couple of hours to kill so headed to the pub for a pint and a sandwich. This turned out to be a big mistake as my credit card got cloned at the contactless touch machine.

Blissfully unaware of the spending spree that the perpetrators of the crime were enjoying on my credit card we boarded the double-decker British Airways flight to Singapore. This was absolutely rammed with very few spare seats obvious. We taxied away on time but then got held as an aircraft ‘tug’ broke down on the runway and we were too big to get by – so that took a while to resolve – and eventually we took off about an hour late.

The flight was a bit bouncy with turbulence – I enjoyed two recent Oscar-nominated movies in Four Billboards and the Darkest Hour – but was slightly irritated trying to stay comfortable with the annoying woman in front of me bouncing around like a lunatic. She seemed to be determined to spill my wine with her seat being moved back and forth at speed on frequent occasions. Sigh….why do I always end up sitting behind them?!?

We arrived into Singapore on Friday afternoon having made up some of the delay. Three huge planes arrived at the same time so the immigration queue was long and slow and it took us a while to get through. By the time we reached the luggage carousels all the bags had been offloaded to the floor so we had to climb through them all to find ours. Thankfully they were there and we just then followed the easy signage to get a taxi. This was the first time we left the air-conditioned terminal and the heat and humidity hit us. Around 32 degrees centigrade with 90% humidity – but not going to complain having escaped from the grips of winter only 24 hours previously!

We got a taxi – got some good sightseeing tips from our driver – and arrived at our hotel which is centrally located near the bay. We checked in, went to our nice-enough room at the Pan Pacific Hotel and got our Singapore clothes unpacked.

We logged into the hotel internet to catch up and spotted an email from the credit card company telling me it was time to pay the bill – so went online, checked the statement, all fine and paid the bill. Of course then I spotted the ‘pending’ transactions which had been approved for numerous on-line Tesco purchases in Nottingham while we had been travelling. So had to phone the fraud team and my cards got cancelled. Just as well we travel with spares and know our address in New Zealand for a while so replacements can be sent over. What a great start!

By now we were pretty tired so we headed to a Chinese restaurant in the attached mall for dinner – puzzled by the balloon art installation – before we returned to the hotel for a beer in the bar before giving in and retiring.

Saturday morning we went out with a plan of walking the bay area and river. We enjoyed the sights across the bay to the iconic Marina Bay Sands hotel, the lotus flower-shaped museum and the hedgehog-looking Esplanade Theatre and the skyline of the financial district.

Of course we had to fight the other tourists near the symbol of Singapore, the huge Merlion statue on the waterfront (which is a cross between a lion and a fish). Allegedly a Sumatran prince called Sang Nila Utama thought he saw a lion when he set foot on here so he named the island Singapura which means Lion City. However, lions have never existed here so not sure what he might have seen LOL.

We stopped along the way for the occasional bottle of water and a breather in the shade…checking out the unusual art installations…and an empty Boat Quay and Clark Quay as they get ready for the afternoon and evening tourists….

We also walked across the river returning via the historic Raffles area. When Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles landed here in 1819 the main island itself was 25% smaller than today due to huge reclamation efforts. Raffles is considered to be the ‘architect’ of today’s Singapore with his vision for the future. Since independence from the colonial past Singapore is one of only three sovereign city-states in the world the others being Monaco and Vatican City.

Having walked for about six hours in the heat dodging the occasional shower we were pretty shattered….so returned to our hotel room for some air-conditioned comfort. Later on we headed to the MTR (Singapore’s tube system), having purchased our travel cards, and took ourselves off to Telok Ayer then walked to Lau Pa Sat which is a historic food court.

Lots of lovely grub there but our destination was Boon Tat Street where the street is taken over by hawkers all serving satay each night. We found our favoured hawker and sat down to a ‘couple’ menu which included 10 skewers of king prawns, 10 chicken and 10 beef. Wow….amazing. And all washed down by a pitcher of beer as this was an area where drinking is allowed. Singapore is strictly controlled with fines for everything from chewing gum in public through to taking a particularly foul-smelling fruit onto the tube trains.

We managed to find our way back to the city on foot and found a waterfront bar where we sat and enjoyed the light, fountain and music show over the bay – including Merlion being lit up by lasers. There are also lots of art installations around lighting up at night for the current iLight festival. We then wandered back to our hotel having had a pretty full first day.

Sunday morning we were up early and headed out to the Suntec City mall (just one of a number attached to our hotel) and purchased 48 hour hop-on, hop-off bus tickets. We rode both the yellow and red lines all the way round enjoying the sights and sounds of the city without getting off. We also noticed lots of migrant domestic workers enjoying their day off camping out on the pavements.

We then took the red line again and this time we got off at Little India and enjoyed wandering the streets – I even managed to buy a couple of tops for beach throws – and then found the Tekka Centre which is a food court recommended by Michelin for best Indian hawker fare in the city. Had a lovely curry from Allauddin’s Briyani. Little India is just like being in India with the shops and the sights….but without the cows, the dust, the dirt, the rubbish and open-street urinals LOL. After our food we returned, on the bus, to our hotel for a couple of hours.

At 6pm we went down to our hotel foyer to await our pick up as we had booked a tour to go on the Night Safari at Singapore Zoo. We were collected by a feeder coach and transported to Chinatown and then onto another coach once we’d all been rounded up into different groups. We thoroughly enjoyed our night out and finished it back at the hotel sitting in one of the bar’s pods watching the lifts come and go through our little thatched roof.

Part two of our Singapore adventure to follow soon.  Bye for now

Jan

Preparation for Season 6

We have been sat at home watching the snow fall on numerous occasions.  There has been some unusually severe weather here in the UK and, although the snow was only three inches deep at the point of this photo being taken, when combined with temperatures of -12C, it meant that everything was at a standstill with cancelled trains, closed schools, blocked roads and closed airports.     Brrrrrr……

But we had it lucky here in the South East compared to the poor people in Wales who felt the full brunt of hurricane force winds which demolished a whole marina in Holyhead with the loss of all 80+ boats.  Absolute carnage…. check out the ‘before’ and ‘after’ pictures.

Our hearts go out to everyone who suffered the loss of their boat especially as we had dodged the bullet ourselves this year with a close call from Cyclone Gita that swerved at the last minute towards New Zealand’s South Island.  Phew….

Whilst at home we caught up with lots of family and friends although there have been some occasions that sadly slipped through the net because of the adverse weather curtailing arrangements. It has, though, been a real delight to catch up with folks after such a long time away and especially being home for Christmas. But we have come to hate the cold weather as we have not experienced winter for over five years and it seems to seep right into the old achy bones LOL.

Now we are in preparation mode again as it is time to get ready for the next season. In New Zealand the autumn is about to start so we have decided to break the flights up and do some exploring on the return leg. So we are spending some time in both Singapore and Thailand on our way back….where it should be lovely and hot…..so we are really looking forward to some sun despite our lack of summer clothes which are neatly stored on Morphie LOL.

Whilst we have been away Morphie has had a few jobs done – primarily repairing the gel coat properly after the damage done in the Panama Canal which, amazingly, was over a year ago. We have also had a stainless steel plate installed on the transom to stop the swim ladder damaging the gel coat. There was also some gelcoat damage on the stern seats and some cracks in the stainless rail welds beneath them so that has all been repaired too. She is looking lovely!

Sails have been valeted and await our arrival in the loft. Likewise the canvas is also waiting for our return to the shop. The old autopilot has been repaired and a replacement starter motor, alternator and a few other essential things like paint and varnish should be awaiting our return to Opua.

We have ordered a few things for Morphie whilst at home so the pile of things to take back is growing but is pretty light compared to previous years as we are unusually staying in a country that is renowned for it’s boat building skills so most items can be procured or even fabricated.

We have scheduled works for our return and the main project is replacing our electronics….new radar, AIS, plotters etc. So you can see that the first few months of our return are looking to be pretty busy – and that’s without factoring in both the anti-fouling and the varnishing work.

Meanwhile at home – now that the snow has finally melted – we are having last-minute repairs done to our garden fence which got damaged in one of the storms earlier in the year…… That should keep the neighbours happy!

So feeling excited about our return to New Zealand and getting Morphie ship shape and ready for future adventures on the high seas. Of course there is also sadness mingled in with having to say farewell again to family and friends…but this year we won’t be away for so long and they have got used to our frequent absences now.

See you in Singapore!  Bye for now

Jan

Reflections on Season 5

We got home safe and sound last week and were a bit shocked by how cold it was. We recovered over the first few days and watched our first snow fall in years through the windows whilst huddled in front of the fire…  Reflecting on our last season, I thought I’d break it down into chunks.

We were delayed in Guatemala by waiting for spare parts but this gave us the opportunity to go to the orphanage on Christmas Eve which was a very humbling experience.

Finally moving on we headed to Roatan and had some good times in the sun whilst waiting for a weather window towards Panama.  And of course we mustn’t forget Cheeky the monkey…

Then it was the nervous passage through pirate alley around the coast of Honduras and Nicaragua. We were relieved to arrive safe and sound into Providencia which was a lovely place.

We then moved on to Panama and dodged all the ships entering into the canal zone. Whilst in the marina we got ourselves provisioned up and prepared for the passage to the Galapagos and beyond.

We went line handling for two boats prior to going through ourselves and, despite keeping them safe, we were sadly unable to stop Morphie getting damaged on the wall.

On the Pacific side we did some temporary repairs and cleaned the hull before leaving for the Galapagos and also spent some time out exploring Panama City.

This was our first long passage of this trip – around 1,000 miles – and we were very excited to cross the equator and to finally arrive.

What an experience – we had an amazing time visiting three of these unique islands getting close to some of the local wildlife.

After the Galapagos we headed toward the Marquesas, part of French Polynesia. The 3,000 mile passage was challenging particularly for the last 10 days when we had to hand steer as our autopilot had failed. We managed it and were relieved to arrive in Hiva Oa, despite the constant rain!  We hauled Morphie to have the arch welded although we did manage to get the autopilot fixed – but then the windlass completely disintegrated – so we lived up a ladder in the mud bath and were pretty demoralised by this point.

We splashed and headed straight to Tahiti, sadly missing the other Marquesas and the Tuamotu islands. We arrived into Tahiti and, straight away, things picked up with parts arriving from both the USA and New Zealand and we were assisted by human dynamo Guy who helped us do all the repairs. He also spotted a few other issues which we then got resolved quickly. So, finally, after a month in a marina we moved out to start having fun again.

Tahiti grew on us after a while and we enjoyed Papeete, particularly attending the Hiva festival.

We had fun at the other French islands and finally waited in Bora Bora for a weather window to make the next passage. French Polynesia is undoubtedly beautiful but there are limited opportunities to go ashore and we found the whole place a little boring.  Apart from some other holiday makers we had little interaction with locals as French Polynesia is so expensive the locals cannot afford to frequent the bars and restaurants.

We finally had a weather window which then closed down but with customs not playing ball we left anyway….and endured some feisty conditions….so were pleased to arrive safely in Palmerston. This was an amazing place with the families living a simple life. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay there.

Then we headed to Nuie and enjoyed watching the whales in the anchorage….but didn’t enjoy winching dink up and down the dock, particularly when the ship was in the harbour. Enjoyed great food and some lovely walks.

Next stop was Tonga where we stayed around Va’vau for the Blue Water Festival and enjoyed the festivities after having done some diving. Two highlights have to be the school brass band followed by the visit to the local school where we were entertained by the children and fed a Tongan feast by their parents.

Then we visited a private island and had an amazing time…..including swimming with humpback whales….. Just plain wow!

Then the weather changed again so we headed back to Va’vau to sit out the rain and celebrate Richard’s 60th birthday before heading down to Nukuʻalofa, the capital of Tonga on the island of Tongatapu.

We enjoyed socialising at Big Mamas bar on Pangiamotu but this was for a very short time before we then started our final passage of the season to New Zealand.

This is a notorious stretch of water so we were very careful picking our weather window – hence our early departure from Tonga – and run pretty much straight to Opua. We had some wonderful sailing days and some rough weather with big seas.

An amazing adventure and although it was tough at times we had an incredible journey and feel very proud of our achievement.    In New Zealand it felt all very English and we enjoyed socialising before putting Morphie to bed on the hard for the season.

So what lessons can we pass on to others planning to follow our footsteps?

Preparation, preparation, preparation is the key word. Everything needs to be checked end to end and if there is any age or wear you need to replace it even if it is working perfectly. You also need to have a way of running downwind either with a poled out genoa or a spinnaker / cruising chute. The stress on the boat of travelling 9,000 miles in mainly following / breaking seas and high winds should not be underestimated and the creaking noises down below are quite scary. Carrying spares is essential and you need to have as much as you can afford to store as access to parts in the South Pacific is limited and importation (apart from into Tahiti) is difficult, expensive and time consuming. The mantra for any South Pacific passage has to be reef, reef and then reef again and before the weather kicks in – once it is upon you it is too late. When we arrived in Tahiti there were very few boats – from tiny 28 footers through to 70 foot Oysters and larger yachts – who had suffered no failures or breakages. Lots and lots of shredded sails too. But if we can do it, so can you! Go for it….just be prepared…..and enjoy every moment along the way.

So what are our plans for the next season? Well, we need to do some upgrades to Morphie – particularly her electronics. So new radar, new AIS, new plotter, new autopilot, new wind / depth / speed instrumentation is on the cards. The original plotters are nine years old and failing and the charts are no longer supported by Garmin so we are moving over to Raymarine products. There are lots of other things we want to do too….as well as explore New Zealand properly. So, for Season 6, we’re going to stay in New Zealand – buy a car – do some land travelling and some sailing but no huge sea passages. We’ll also do some other land travel to and from London to make the most of being in this part of the world just like we did on return with our trip to Hong Kong.

So our intention is to leave the UK in March again so please return to the blog around that time and, to make sure you don’t miss it, subscribe and you’ll get an e-mail when I make some changes. So bye for now and I want to wish all of you a very Merry Christmas and a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year.

Jan

Exploring Hong Kong – part 2

Sunday morning we weren’t sure what to do. We knew that Sunday is Hong Kong’s busiest day and when the territory’s Philippine ‘maids’ have the day off. Apparently these women come here to earn money to support their families back home often leaving their children behind with other members of the family. They then earn meagre wages as maids / nannies / cleaners for wealthier Chinese and other ex-pats, often sleeping on the kitchen floors of their employers. So on Sunday they all congregate on the pavements around the City and enjoy being together with some of them just catching up on their sleep. What an existence….definitely a darker side.

Before we headed out we enjoyed watching some yacht racing in the harbour as they tried to avoid the commercial traffic, including the arrival of a cruise ship. This was all watched from the privacy of our lovely hotel bedroom.

We finally decided to do the double-decker hop-on hop-off bus tour as this meant we could avoid doing as much walking and still see some new sights. So we headed off over to the island on the Star Ferry and immediately came across some of the maids enjoying their leisure time.

We decided to go on the ‘green line’ as this took us away from the city and into the more rural areas of Hong Kong island.

We travelled through the Aberdeen tunnel, went through the beautiful Repulse Bay and then arrived at Stanley. This is a world away from the hustle and bustle and we enjoyed walking the seaside promenade and seeing all the boats.

The promenade was lined with small cafes and we found one and had a really nice Chinese lunch although we are both getting a bit tired of noodles LOL.  Interestingly every restaurant we go into here in Hong Kong from small cafes to top-end establishments give you a menu so that you can tick off the items you want to order.

We headed back up to the bus stop through the fancy mall. You can really shop until you drop here and it appears that most of the residents and mainland Chinese tourists intend to do just that!

The next stop was Aberdeen where we went on a Sampan boat ride through the fishing boat village. These people are not indigenous Chinese and are of Malaysian extraction and continue, despite intervention from the ruling bodies, to live their traditional life on their boats. All very interesting…and the living conditions look pretty harsh, however, when you realise that many people here live in a parcelled-up flat with just a bed in a cupboard to call their own….the relative freedom of having some space onboard is certainly a more attractive proposition.

This harbour is also home to the famous Jumbo Floating Restaurant which ferries in customers from all over the territory.

We then returned to Central. Not wanting to tour the City any more – as we think we have covered most of it on foot by now – we headed back across the river to Kowloon. We hopped on the bus doing the ‘blue’ route and watched the huge crowds swarming across the streets and into the markets – certainly didn’t fancy getting off at this point LOL.

So we continued people watching until we arrived at the Sky100 building and left the bus. We got into the lift to take us to the observation deck and were whisked up into the sky at a huge rate of knots which takes just 60 seconds to ascend to the deck which is 393 metres above sea level.

We wandered around the deck enjoying the views, especially as the sun was low in the sky, before taking the lift back down. This time the exit escalator took us into another fancy mall full of designer shops and people were shopping like crazy with fancy shopping bags full of genuine Gucci, Luis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, Versace and other designer labels…..there is some serious cash being spent here!

We decided not to return to the bus station so, instead, headed off on the MTR back towards the hotel. It was about 7pm by now so we decided to eat out first and queued up to get into the Outback Restaurant for dinner. We just fancied some simple fare and a nice steak with a jacket potato and salad was a real treat – along with the really cold draft Carlsberg to wash it all down with. We eventually returned to the hotel around 9pm and had an early night.

Monday morning we headed off on the MTR again – our destination this time was Ocean Park. We don’t usually visit anywhere that has captive dolphins but this place, allegedly, is really into conservation of the planet and is a major researcher into different species. The real reason we wanted to visit, though, was that they have Giant Pandas and this may be our only opportunity ever to see one. We arrived at this gaudy looking theme park and got our entry tickets…… immediately heading off to do some rides before the crowds built up. We were twisted upside down, inside out and generally thrown around which was great fun.

Afterwards we headed into the North and South Pole enclosures and saw different type of penguins. Didn’t realise just how large some of them are and they are so graceful in the water it was lovely to see.

We also enjoyed the seals and the huge walruses. You could watch them on the surface and below the water and when we went down to see them underwater we caught the walruses having sex – seriously – and all of a sudden the Chinese were ushering their kids along LOL. The exhibits were, to our surprise, all about saving the environment for these creatures and how global warming is the biggest threat to their continued existence. All very worthwhile and they are obviously trying but then you walk back outside to a gloomy day caused by pollution being blown down from mainland China. Sigh….

We then headed back down the park on the cable car admiring the views and spotting a yacht mooring field…….and got into the queue for the pandas. But at least we had pretty flowers to look at whilst waiting.

The people in the queue were really excited and almost exclusively Chinese. There did not seem to be many almond-eyed tourists around and we got lots of looks and smiles. We shuffled forward being pushed around by the crowd as the Chinese really do not have an idea of how to queue for anything despite notices saying ‘queue nicely’ LOL. Finally we were inside and saw the pandas which were bigger than I expected. We also saw the cuter red pandas who were a little more active in the daytime.

Through the Amazon exhibit we came across some pygmy monkeys and other critters including a very large two-toed sloth and lethal frogs.

We then headed to the giant aquarium and were amazed by all the different goldfish and then into a huge tunnel and watched manta rays, hammerhead sharks, southern sting rays and loads and loads of other fish. Would prefer to see them in the wild but hey ho. Again the signs were very encouraging trying to educate people about the food chain and the essential role of coral. We didn’t go anywhere near the dolphin enclosure and was pleased that the whole exhibit was closed ‘for maintenance’.

Leaving the aquarium we hot footed it up the hill again to see the Golden Snub Nosed monkeys which we have never seen before. The male was clearly in a mood and strolled around exerting his dominance including having sex with the female…..Chinese kids exit left LOL…..and we loved watching the baby play around in the enclosure.

By now it was getting late and the park was about to close so we enjoyed the dancing fountain with lights and music before we headed to the MTR station.

We changed stations / lines three times – clearly this was rush hour as the trains were very busy – and we finally arrived back to the peace of our hotel lobby at around 7pm. We headed to the bar for a few cold ones and then had an early night.

This morning, Tuesday, and it is our last day in Hong Kong. We have no plans other than to visit the pool area if the weather warms up enough and generally to relax before our 13 hour flight home later tonight.

So what did we think of Hong Kong??  Well, it is a fascinating place and if you like cities and shopping opportunities then this should be high on the bucket list. The cost of the transport system is both amazingly cheap and easy to navigate.  We have travelled extensively around the MTR network every day including ferries, buses and trams – and spen only £16 each.   For example a six-day Oyster adult travel pass in London would cost you £118.15!!!

The juxtaposition of rich and poor shows itself up in many ways – from the shiny new glass buildings towering into the sky next to a ramshackle falling-down apartment and the maids sleeping on the streets next to shoppers queuing outside luxury stores. The shops are luxurious whilst the markets are full of low-end tat. And that covers everything from clothing to watches to handbags to shoes…. Chinese people aren’t good at queuing so be prepared to sharpen those commuter elbows to get around. Interestingly, unless they are heading to work, they all wear trainers and are constantly on their phones, including the older generation. They are watching videos, reading cartoons, playing games and are constantly texting each other. That’s probably why the escalators and pedestrian crossings all emit this annoying beeping sound to let you know when you are getting near / safe to cross. This is the only time the residents look up from their screens LOL. Oh yes and babies are carried and dogs travel in prams!!!

Overall we had a great time and are glad we came – there are many highlights of this trip, particularly the temples and learning a little about their culture.   But the top thing has to be the amazing night time view across the harbour which is just simply stunning.

But now it is time to go home and we are very excited about seeing our family and friends, especially to share Christmas with them, which will be for the first time in five years. When we reach home I’ll do a wrap-up blog about the last season and share our future plans.

Bye for now

Jan

Exploring Hong Kong – part 1

Friday afternoon we had a late lunch at a nice Chinese in the Whampoa Gourmet plaza and I found a place to have my hair cut.  Hurrah!

Later on we headed out to visit the Temple Street night market.   When we arrived in the area we encountered beggars for the first time and a young girl around 15 years old sat on the pavement with no fingers or thumbs on either hand. She was clearly traumatised as she rocked backwards and forwards and we realised with horror that she had probably been deliberately maimed as her injuries were just too similar to have been caused by accidental means. Sickening….

We walked through the ‘golden mile’ of jewellery shops admiring the craftsmanship but not sure that the designs will travel LOL. Above the stores were loads and loads of flats and it seemed like it might be washing day….

We finally arrived at the night market. This was full of bling and lots of copies of designer items such as bags. There really wasn’t anything that took our eye and, if we did buy electronic gifts, we would want to make sure that it survived longer than being taken out of its packaging LOL. So we declined and walked end-to-end….

We had hoped to eat street food but the hygiene standards and the smell of the cooking oil in these places put us off big time.

We worked our way through the crowds and ended up back at the MTR so took the line towards central on Hong Kong island where we stopped to watch the LED light show on the buildings.

We then walked to Soho where we found a very popular local restaurant and had some great noodle dishes although found eating this soup-like meal with chopsticks a little challenging LOL. After our meal we took the Star Ferry back across the river and the bus back to our hotel where we had a couple of cold ones before turning in for the night.

Saturday morning we headed out on the bus and got the Star Ferry back across to Hong Kong Island. We walked across the road towards the Hong Kong station and caught another tube to the island of Lantau. We got off at the end of the line at Tung Chung and walked to the cable car terminal. Sadly it was a little cloudy (or polluted?) but there were still fantastic views across Tung Chung Bay to the airport and then through Lantau’s North Country Park. We continued on this ride until we reached the Ngong Ping terminal.

At the terminal there is a new village which has been built specifically for tourists. We walked through until we came to the corridor of 12 Divine Generals each of whom symbolises the 12 animals of the Chinese Zodiac and represents two distinct hours of the day. Here are a few of them.

We then took our breath before tackling the 260 steps up to the Big Buddha statue who is sitting on a lotus leaf. We found it hard to walk up at this altitude and couldn’t believe it when we came across a woman who took the steps one at a time on her knees praying all the time. Amazing dedication.

We enjoyed our visit with Buddha and the views out, particularly the deities that surround him. Then it was time to work our way down the steps again….

Having reached the bottom we admired other gates and statues – as well as talking to a couple of wild cows that hang out here – before taking ourselves off to the Po Lin monastery.

This was a series of temples and each one was more beautiful than the other….with numerous gold statues and the most ornate carvings and woodwork. Oh yes and we had to sneak a couple of photos despite the signs LOL. Just stunning…

Having had our fill of temples and saying a final farewell to Big Buddha we headed back into the village and had some Turkish food. Then we found a bus to take us to the fishing village of Tai O. We took a boat trip through the stilt houses that adorn this area and then out into the South China Sea looking for white dolphins. We knew that these were pretty rare so were not surprised we failed to spot any.

After the boat trip we walked through the village into the fish market and our senses were assaulted by the smell of the street food and the dried remains of certain fishes – a few were recognisable like squid – but we were horrified to see ‘gills’ as we know of the Chinese liking for manta ray gills as they are supposed to strengthen respiratory tracts. This place also had crispy squid which Richard had taken a liking to in our hotel bar but I think seeing it in its raw state might have put him off eating it in future LOL.

We returned to Ngong Ping and took the cable car down the mountain trying to keep warm from the chilly wind. At the bottom we headed back to the MTR station and took three tubes to return to our hotel. We had a few hours relaxing in our room enjoying the oasis of calm away from the manic craziness that is Hong Kong. Later on we headed to the outside bar to watch the evening laser show over the harbour.

By now we were hungry so we headed back down to the Courtyard restaurant for dinner. Again there was live music and again the app didn’t work. But I managed to get the cashier to give us a bucket of beers so that we didn’t need to return and queue to order more. The Indian food was fantastic again but the band cleared off at 10 pm. Not wanting to sit in an empty restaurant we carried the beer to our room to finish it off.

Bye for now

Jan