Chilling in Canouan

After relaxing on the beach on Sunday at the Tamarind Beach Hotel we headed back on board for a quiet evening. Just as we got back the heavens opened….phew, glad we didn’t get caught out in the dinghy in that! Sunset was really moody as a result and we turned in early.

Monday morning we explored Charlestown. We wandered around and came across a cute little local bar on the beach – although it wasn’t open – and did some shopping Canouan style at a stall set up by the side of the road. We also found a small supermarket where we stocked up on some snacks….local peanuts are really cheap and good!  But we are really missing our daily fruit and bread delivery to the boat which we got in Bequia. Oh well…  We were surprised by the amount of building materials just lying around – the goats clearly liked them as places to hang out – and that they recycled old shipping containers into so many things. We actually went into a local restaurant made out of one for a soft drink while waiting for another rain shower to pass…. Of all the buildings, the police station was the most impressive with its grand facade.  

Whilst we were out and about we came across a cute puppy who Richard really wanted to adopt as he looked like he needed a good home and had boat puppy potential – but we resisted the temptation.  We also bumped into cruisers who were on the catamaran anchored in front of us – and they had a phone stolen from their boat Sunday night. We weren’t surprised at this news particularly when we found out that they sleep with their doors open….it may be hot here but we lock ourselves in at night because we knew that these islands have this reputation. Shame to hear it though – this place is really friendly and chilled –but you always get a few bad uns…

Having explored, and returned to Morphie to stow our acquisitions, we went back to the beach at the hotel for the afternoon. On Sunday it was busy – today it was empty. Just us and a barman…. So we chilled, relaxed, bobbed and chatted to Pete about life on Canouan. Around 4pm the heavens opened again and we ended up staying in the beach bar for a bit longer than intended while we sat it out…. About 6pm we went back on board for dinner – no sunset tonight in the gloom.

Tuesday morning we headed into the hotel reception as we wanted to visit the other end of the island where there is another resort, golf course and private villas…which is a gated community. Well – it is closed because of the massive construction work going on – so not able to go there officially.  However, they were happy to organise an island tour for us by taxi at a reasonable price of US$20 each – and, because it was in a company vehicle, we could drive around the gated bit providing we kept away from the construction areas. Well – this place is amazing. Truly a millionaire’s paradise and the photos really do not do it justice.

Having left the gated area behind us we enjoyed the views as we drove along the hill tops and eventually down to the other end of the island, where the airport stands on reclaimed land.  The reefs surrounding this island are amazing and the colour of the water has to be seen to be believed…..  We went into Friendship Bay and had a coke at the beachfront bar / restaurant while looking out towards the Tobago Cays. They had a great sign up on the wall which Richard really liked…  In this area they are reclaiming more land and building a huge marina – not sure when it will be finished but it is going to be some place.

On the way back to the hotel we asked our driver what he thought about half of the island being gated – and the view is mixed apparently, but the majority agree that it is a really good thing as it brings so much employment to the island. And, indeed, the affluence of the locals can be seen in the housing which is pretty sturdy looking and they all have mains electricity – no real shacks here. Having been out for a while we decide to return to the beach for our final afternoon and Richard treated me to lunch as I’ve been cooking a lot recently! So that was nice – and again we had the beach to ourselves. Not sure how we are going to cope when we come across other people in future destinations!!! 

Back on board now and getting ready to depart tomorrow for the Tobago Cays. This is probably the most challenging trip in terms of navigation so far. We are hoping to be able to anchor behind the horseshoe reef for a couple of days and get in loads of snorkelling. I’m particularly keen to get in the water with the turtles I hear are found here in great numbers – Richard was luckily enough to come across one when snorkelling the anchor the other day. Whilst we are in this area internet coverage will be zero – so will be in touch with a blog update when I get connected again. 

Bye for now

Jan