Exploring Terre d’Haut

Tuesday morning we did very little but did get around to cleaning Morphie’s hull in the afternoon….. which was surprisingly clean, considering how long we had spent in the marina over the last month. While we were in the water we had noticed that quite a few largish catamarans had come in – all full of young guys and girls, maximum age 18 we reckoned. They had no skippers on board with them and couldn’t even drive straight towards a mooring ball – the guy who collects the fees actually had to tow one of the boats to the ball to get them attached. Scary stuff…..

Party boat

As the afternoon went on they got louder, shouting at each other across the bay – unfortunately we had two of these boats behind us – and then, thankfully, they went ashore…. Hurrah peace restored.  And then, of course, they came back and carried on whooping and hollering…. Finally we gave up and went to bed but this was a rolly night so sleep was a bit elusive – and the party boats continued to party…. The last time we heard them was at 4.30 am…. We were definitely not amused and felt very grumpy and old!!!!

Sunset 1

Wednesday morning and we head in to hire an electric car to explore the island. We arrive just after the day-trip ferry has come in from Guadeloupe… and no cars available as they have to be reserved in advance. Well we did try to do that the other day but virtually got pushed out of the door as the guy was locking up for his two hour lunch while telling us to come back tomorrow!!! Oh well – best laid plans and all that.  So we reserved a two-seater car for Thursday instead.

Not wanting to go straight back to Morphie we decided to walk across the island to visit Grande Anse beach.  We admired first the doctor’s house – which is built into the cliff and shaped like a ship – donated to the island, providing a doctor remains living in it….    Very interesting structure….

The Doctor's house

Wandering up, down and around the island we enjoyed the beautiful flowers that adorn most hedges; met some local critters; marvelled at what passes for a main road here; admired the serene setting of the island’s cemetery; and finally ended up at Grande Anse.

Local critter 2 Local critter Lovely spot for the cemetary Main road out of town Beautiful tree Flowers everywhere 1 Flowers everywhere 2

Grande Anse is beautiful and wild – and very clearly not a swimming beach – as the undertow here is very dangerous.  We wandered around and had some fun in the sand… and came across the end of the runway to the little island airport.  Misjudge that one and you end up in the drink!

Grand Anse beachHaving fun in the sand

Grande Anse beach 2 Airport! Airport 2

Having got a bit hot and bothered we wandered back to the town beach and was looking for a place to sit and have a cold drink while people watching. Having walked about five miles we felt we deserved it!  So we tried half a dozen places – but either no-one around to serve or no drink without food.  We were a bit fed up at this point – especially as we wanted to spend some euros – so we headed back to Morphie, checking out the unusual lamps and signage at a couple of the restaurants along the way.

View out from town Unusual lamps Unusual signage

We packed a cooler with food and drink and returned.  We beached dink and had a really good time bobbing in the sea and enjoying the sun….. The water is spectacular and clear here…. During the afternoon we watched a few planes come in low over the town heading to that tiny airport and enjoyed watching the pelicans hunting for fish too.  And we could keep an eye on Morphie and her large neighbours too.   Life is good!


Town beachYellow buoys everywherePlanes fly low over townMorphie has some big friendsTown beach 2Pelican hunting

Artistic shot of the day!

Back on board and we were relieved that the party boats had left during the day… We had just showered off on the transom – but were still in our swimsuits – and suddenly we had a couple of dolphins visit the stern of Morphie. I jumped in quickly but they scarpered…. Never mind…was quite an exciting moment…. And so to bed.

Thursday morning up early and go to collect our solar-powered car. Oh yes and it is raining….hard!!!   Oh well…. we can’t do anything about that as we have reserved and pre-paid… just have to make the most of it. Finally we get our hands on the car – no driving licence required – and it is a weird looking thing. We couldn’t help but break out into a rendition of Postman Pat as we drove away – all we needed was that black and white cat LOL.

Postman Pat..... Postman Pat 2 Postman Pat 3

Richard was desperate to try out his racing driver skills and it was pretty scary when he was tearing around at the maximum speed of around 15 miles an hour… Don’t laugh – these roads are barely made for walking, let alone fast buggies!!!

Main roads Main road to the church

First stop was up to Fort Napoleon which has been well restored and there were stunning views from the ramparts… Shame about the rain and the grey skies though!!!

View to Marigot View to town anchorage Superyachts out there Guadeloupe

The museum was pretty interesting and had a great range of naval information but very little in the way of actual historical objects save from a few bits and pieces. But we particularly enjoyed some of the battle scene artwork and the beautifully crafted models of the ships involved in the numerous battles fought in these waters.

Fort museum Full steam ahead Model ships 1 Not sure what he was re-enacting! Model ships 2 Dramatic artwork Model ships 3

I spy with my little eye

Moving on and we drive down to Baie to Pompierre – which is a stunning beach… even in the rain…..

Baie de Pompierre 3 Baie de Pompierre Baie de Pompierre 2

Afterwards we explored the whole island – having to enter many of the coves on foot as the final approach to them was not navigable in our little buggy.  We had a nice time – even though it was still raining.   We particularly enjoyed watching the little goats keeping dry by the stadium and under anything they could find!

Sheltering from the rain Sheltering from the rain 2

We then decided to go to La Papilotte for lunch, which is in a stunning place called Baie du Marigot, and was the highlight of our visit here last year. Got there just in time to get one of the last tables and placed our order. We had fantastic food and wine…. this is a great place and very worthy of its rating. Having finished a leisurely meal we asked for the bill and went to the bar to pay it…. We were treated to a free rum shot – and Richard was given his in a very unusual shot glass!

Baie du Marigot Baie du Marigot 2 Amazing rock formations La PailotteThat was a great lunchGets busy at lunchtime Enjoying lunch

Unusual shot glass!

The sun was now starting to come out so we head back to Baie de Pompierre and enjoyed an afternoon of bobbing. Driving back through the town we marvel at the amount of derelict houses that are just left to rot and wonder about the stories behind them…..

Hurrah - sun and bobbing!

Selfie 2It looks like sun!

Derelict house 4

Derelict house 3 Derelict house 2 Derelict house 1

We hand back our car – which we had grown quite fond of during the day – and had a final glass of wine watching the day trippers line up for the ferry back to Guadeloupe. Back to Morphie and we enjoy sitting in the cockpit enjoying the final hours of the evening with some tunes…. No dinner tonight – still full up from lunch!

Time for the tourists to leave

Friday – and it’s Easter and to make us feel at home it is a rainy squally day…. Happy Easter to all our friends and family. Enjoy your long weekend…..

Happy Easter

No chocolate eggs on board but I did manage to get some Smarties and Galaxy the other day so we enjoyed them instead. We did very little apart from a little bit of handwashing and we made water. We didn’t got off the boat at all – and thoroughly enjoyed our lazy day, which was rounded off by the beautiful colour of the sky as the sun prepared to say farewell.

Time to say goodnight

This morning – Saturday – and we plan to head into town and hoping that the rain will go away….. Not sure what will be open or going on… but fingers crossed that the laundry will be open so I can get the heavy stuff done.   After that maybe lunch?  Maybe beach or chair bobbing?  We’ll just have to see how we feel…..

Bye for now