We chatted to the manager on arrival whilst we had a cold drink to recover. He explained that we would be introduced to our guide around 2.45 pm. So we made ourselves comfortable and enjoyed the views up and down the river. Later on Abdul turned up and explained the itinerary for the day….4pm time for tea and then 4.30 pm boat trip followed by 7.30 pm dinner and an after dinner night walk. In the meantime he took us to check out the vipers which were sitting in the bushes we had just walked past. Eek…hadn’t spotted them at all!

All went to plan until we got down the river to see the fireflies – they had just started sparkling when thunder clouds built and the lightning started. So back to the lodge and we had a couple of Tiger beers while waiting for dinner to be served.

We had a lovely beef curry – definitely the softest meat so far – along with veggies and jasmine rice. Delicious! Then the heavens opened…and the torrential rain meant that our night walk was cancelled. Oh well, never mind. We were back in our room by 9pm but as we had a 6.30 am start in the morning we weren’t bothered…

After a reasonable night’s sleep we were up early Friday and headed down to the jetty to pick up our boat for the next river trip. There were lots of probiscus monkeys again and a few spectacles. Oh and much bigger crocodiles here!!!

We also came across a rope bridge which had been strung between two islets. This is for the orangutans…the other monkeys can all swim and the probiscus make huge leaps across and, if they fall in, they hope not to become dinner for the crocs as they swim to the shore!

During the trip we asked Abdul about the negative publicity re palm oil plantations endangering the orangutan habitat as the primary forest has been cut down. He had a different view…. He confirmed that this area used to be rainforest but had actually been felled after WW2 to supply the timber for rebuilding the towns which had been completely flattened by bombing raids. Malaysia suffered significantly at the hands of the Japanese invasion. So yes it was sad that palm oil had taken over but he said for hard workers it was a reasonable crop to make a living. And it wasn’t all big plantations and large businesses – many were smallholders. However, he was very supportive of the Government’s push to preserve the rainforest and that, now after a number of years, there were miles of the river edged by forest rather than plantations (which resided behind). An interesting perspective from someone who makes their living out of tourism and the animals that inhabit the area.

We went back to the resort and headed around the boardwalk into the jungle for our breakfast which was cooked and served. There was a guy manning the toaster and he offered me some white sliced warm bread…so I asked for it to be put through again…and he was shocked. When he saw that we liked it quite brown he said that was burnt and ruined LOL.

After lunch we rested up for a while and then reconvened at 12.30 pm – again we were going to a local village for lunch. So we piled into the boat to head over there…we met the old lady (who was the grandmother of one of the lodge’s waiters)…and settled down to eat. Again another buffet…and again I chose beef curry…can’t get too much of a good thing LOL. Funnily enough this village was clearly more Islamic than the previous one we had visited. This was a Friday so the call to prayers was very loud and actually not that melodious! Guess you can’t always guarantee that your Iman has a good voice?!?

This particular village was very boggy underfoot so we had to balance on planks that had been laid down to get around. Abdul explained that this village was at threat of becoming an island as the water levels continue to rise. But everything is built on stilts so they weren’t overly worried although I had some concerns over crocodiles invading the village green LOL and eating the kids!

Back at the lodge we rested up as we were going to reconvene at 3.30 pm – an hour earlier than usual – as we were heading back up the river towards Sukau as there had been some pygmy elephants seen in the area. We boarded our boat and took off very fast – full of anticipation about seeing the elephants. They are small because of the area they reside in – full-sized elephants would not be able to get through the dense forest…

En route my stomach started rebelling…all that beef curry LOL…and I asked Abdul if he could find a place for me to go to the toilet. Hopefully not in the bush with the monkeys and critters! As we continued we spotted a site on the river where guys were working on their boats – this river is the main road in the area and lots of barges etc move things around between areas….

Luckily there was a dunny on the pier…we pulled alongside…and Abdul got permission for me to use the facility. Well, a shack over the river with a hole in the floor is better than nothing, so I was very grateful to him…. Whilst I was in the dunny the heavens opened and, when I came out, everyone was soaked through! Luckily we had ponchos with us – first time of using – so were suitably kitted out for this…. Very sweaty but at least they kept the rain out….

We then headed into a small river stream and there were lots of boats around – from every lodge and camp along the river – so lots of tourists too. Abdul got the information from the others and, yes, elephants were around. Sadly they were not on the river but they were in a plantation which was being felled…they clear old trees and let the elephants play in the area…

Sadly this meant climbing out of the boat – up a steep muddy slope – and onto the flat land above. And, of course, this has to be the day we had travelled in sandals rather than our hiking boots! Suddenly, we saw them – OMG – a far distance away but at least we had glimpsed them, along with every other tourist visiting the area it would seem! This was a real treat! Everyone was pretty excited at this point….

On the way back – much slower than on the way – and enjoyed more monkey antics. Back at the lodge we had showers and changed for dinner. After dinner we headed along the boardwalk for a night walk – the humidity in the forest was a killer – and we were sopping wet in seconds! We saw lots of little beasties / critters and a slow lorus. Back to the bar – we had a beer – and then to bed.

Saturday we were up very early, packed, had breakfast in the jungle again – alone this time as all our fellow guests had gone off for their early morning boat safari – and we were back on the dock for the 9am small ferry departure.

Next stop was My Nature Resort in Sandakan. Come back to read all about it soon – bye for now.

Jan