Party season approaches….

Monday afternoon stayed nice so we decided to take the day off and headed ashore to the beach at the Calabash resort.   Really pretty place – had a great time bobbing, sunbathing and generally chilling.   Calabash beach Calabash beach 2 Bobbing at Calabash Calabash beach 3 Calabash beach 4 Whilst at the beach bar we were talking to the English chef – the Calabash has a Gary Rhodes restaurant – and we mentioned that we had been here many years ago and enjoyed a lovely afternoon at a small bar in Lower Woburn with some local guys, one of whom – Roger – worked as a chef here too.   It turns out, sadly, that at a very young age Roger died from a massive brain clot, but that LeslieAnn, the supervisor here in the bar, was his widow!   Small world…   So we enjoyed talking about this great chap and how he and his friends made us welcome all that time ago.  Poignant too especially when we realised that LeslieAnn had been left with twins who have limited recollection of their father as they were very young when he passed away and are now coming up for their sixth birthday……  

Calabash beach bar LeslieAnn Looking back out to the anchorage it is time to go…so we said our farewells.  

View out to Prickly Bay anchorage Back on board we had a quick shower and headed into Prickly Bay marina for happy hour and pizza night.   Kill or cure after a few beers on the beach – so I ordered the small healthy option pizza with salad but ended up with some concoction with chips!   Weird…and not nice either…   Couldn’t be bothered to send it back because the waitress was absolutely rushed off her feet and we had already waited a long time.   Oh well….  at least they have a nice Christmas tree!

Christmas at Prickly BayTuesday we headed into the dinghy dock and took the long hot walk into town as we need to get some drinking vouchers from the bank and some provisions before we leave Prickly Bay.   By the time we got there Richard was hungry so we popped into a local eatery and he had his first chicken roti of the season – I’m still being cautious so just had soda water!    Went to the discount supermarket and loaded up with soft drinks and some rum rations along with a few other things – wow, really heavy, and a loooong walk back.  So we flagged down a local bus to help us with a little bit of the journey.  But we still managed to walk about three miles laden down like donkeys!   Phew!  Back on board and after another shower we got ready to welcome Peter and Sylvia on board for sundowners.   Had a really fun evening with them – followed by an early night….

Richard enjoying being back at the helm of dink

Wednesday finishing up the current list of boat jobs – almost there – and have decided we are going to move around to Clarkes Court Bay on Thursday when the sea state has calmed down a bit and hopefully the rain has moved on….    Quiet day on board – didn’t even go ashore – and managed to tick off most things on our list. Thursday morning up really early, went into the marina for some bread for the freezer, and then waited for a rain shower to go away before we picked up anchor.   Heading out the seas were pretty flat and the sun was shining….  Nice.    Only moving five miles, straight into the wind and waves, so we decided to drag dink along behind us and motor.  

Saying goodbye to Prickly Bay marina

Heading out towing dink

Oh hang on … there is a massive squall coming our way as we turn towards our destination.   So we head further out to avoid the breaking seas in the shallow water – then the squall hit – WHITEOUT and 38 knots of wind – and it went on for quite a while.  We were bouncing off the top of breaking waves, slamming down and burying our nose deep, and then spluttering back up for more trying to steer around them best we could.   It must have looked pretty dramatic to anyone watching – we were just hanging on!    Finally, as we neared the entrance channel to our destination according to our electronic charts, the gloom lifted enough for us to see the markers to guide us in.   Phew…. glad to get the protection of the reef as we came through.

Whiteout!

Luckily the channel is buoyed!

Thursday night Sha Sha came on board for sundowners – and we had a really nice, if boozy, reunion.   Talked about plans for Christmas and, as they have been anchored in this area for a while, they have sussed out all the good stuff for us to do…..  

Friday morning and we were doing our hangover cure bit – jumping straight into the sea.  Lovely way to start a day!    What a great view from our galley port too while fixing breakfast.

View from the galley

After breakfast we headed out in dink for a tour around to see if we could book ourselves in for the festivities.    So went to Whisper Cove Marina to visit the butcher and got some great veal fillet as well as some lean bacon and fresh-baked bread.   We also booked ourselves in for their Italian buffet and live music night on Christmas Eve.     Had a couple of beers while he prepared the meat for us and we waited for the rain to pass – there was a huge iguana there too but he legged it the minute I got the camera out.   Typical!   From Whisper Cove we enjoyed watching Morphie sitting out in the bay on anchor all shiny with loads of swinging room around her.

Morphie's Christmas anchorageThen we moved onto Taffys and managed to get booked in for their full three course Christmas day turkey dinner along with pigs in blankets etc!   Hurrah….    That’s Christmas sorted then – we even have a bottle of bubbly in the fridge so that we can toast friends and family on the day itself.   Back on board and a quiet afternoon of reading, sleeping and no drinking before bed….. at the outrageous time of 8pm!

Saturday and we are up before the sun – what a gorgeous sight as it rose into the sky.

Sunrise at Clarkes Court Bay

Boat jobs take precedence again today – and Richard has fixed the lock on the heads.   We’ve also swapped out the nylon washer and greased up the gooseneck as it was squeaking overnight.   For our non-sailing friends this means taking the boom off from the mast.    We also re-commissioned both the watermaker and the generator and topped up our water tanks.  And we greased up the steering gear and checked all the through hulls – and Richard turned two little LED lights into navigation lights to hang on dink when we are out and about at night.  What a great job!

Dink's new nav lights

Saturday night after dinner on board we dinked round the headland to Le Phare Bleu for their Christmas concert.   What a treat – Tammy Baldeo was the lead artist – and she is absolutely amazing and I would love her to get discovered!   Thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and headed back to Morphie glowing in the dark with our new lights….  

Christmas concert 1Christmas concert 2

Sunday morning up early, had a swim, and now chilling at Whisper Cove Marina doing laundry, blogging etc.    Love this life!

To our friends and family we wish you a very Happy Christmas and hope that you all enjoy the day with each other.  We will raise a glass to you all in the morning and remember those special people who are no longer with us.

Merry Christmas

Bye for now

Jan

Friends, countrymen, cruisers….lend me your tools

Monday ended up being rained off – so we had a very lazy non-alcohol day on board sleeping, eating and reading.  

Tuesday and it was sunny with blue skies again.   Hurrah!    So we got to work early.   I topped up the varnish repairs with another coat and Richard got on with mechanical jobs.    Finally assistance turned up to help him get the impeller out – this had frozen solid and had broken in situ – and we just didn’t have the correct tools at our disposal which are needed because of the very small tight space we are working in.  Well mission accomplished – sigh of relief – and we now have the very expensive piece of kit that we needed in our possession, so future impeller changes should be a doddle.   The refrigeration guy also turned up and fixed the fridge which was a gas pressure issue.  Very happy about that – we can have cold drinks on board now!    But we also realised that the stuffing gland is leaking – not its customary two to three drips per minute which is acceptable – but one drip per second!   Not good… and we do not want to be on anchor with this issue unresolved, so decided to book into the marina for another couple of days.   Morphie does seem quite comfortable in her slip!

Morphie at Le Phare Bleu

As we were now staying, we headed off to the pool for a few hours bobbing in the sun before an early dinner and evening on board.

View out from the pool

Wednesday and Richard works on another issue we found – a leak into the forepeak from the anchor locker.   Another problem resolved.    Yea!!!    But Richard continues to struggle with the stuffing gland.  The locking nut should be ‘finger tight’ only but this is absolutely ceased solid.    It is down a really small hole which he can barely get his arms into as well as two wrenches – which he’s borrowed from Cutter Loose as we are still waiting on ours to arrive….   Well – he still can’t do it.   He comes up for a breather now and again and at one point we both end up laying on our stomachs with one wrench each on the offending nuts – but we just don’t have the brute strength or length of arms to do this job!    And we’ve tried penetrating oil too…   Grrrrrr……   

Stuffing gland

Eventually we give up and get ourselves ready for the evening as there is a concert in the restaurant tonight – our favourite Grenadian pan band, The Wizards, and Madison Violet are doing a set.    Lovely time had by all – good music, nice food and great company.   Enjoyed spending some time with Eric and Pat (Cutter Loose) although how they manage to look so cool in the heat is beyond me!

Wizards 1

Wizards 2

Madison Violet 1

Madison Violet 2

Group shot

Pat and EricUs feeling the heat!Thursday and we continue to persevere with the stuffing gland to no avail – we have asked the guys to come and help us but still not sure when they will fit us in.   Really wanted to leave today….   Anyway, we bumble around all day, chasing the shop down but in the end they admit they can’t fit us in until first thing Friday morning.    Oh well – what can you do?    We are going a little stir crazy here in the marina but need to get this sorted.    So we had another quiet non-alcohol evening on board.

Friday and the weather is starting to close in – there are big seas and strong winds forecast for Saturday and Sunday so need to get moving today.   Jason turned up – and he is a very very strong guy with long arms – just what we needed!   But it still took him quite a while.   Being optimistic I busy myself getting our water and electricity meter read, picking up the laundry, and generally get the boat ready to go to sea.   Hurrah – job done – we are on our way!    Marina slip paid for and we head out around lunchtime into Prickly Bay where we plan to anchor and sit out the weather. Getting stormy out

The five mile trek was pretty uncomfortable in building seas but we arrived in good time and found a spot – although the bay is pretty busy – and anchored easily.   Went ashore to the chandlery for more bits and pieces and we suddenly realised that it was Friday the 13th December!   Glad we didn’t know that before we left Le Phare Bleu…    It was great to see Morphie back on the hook and she seemed pretty happy to us!    Morphie back at anchor

Later on we headed into Prickly Bay Marina and enjoyed listening to New Dimensions – not as good as the Wizards though – and met some really nice people, particularly Sylvia and Peter from Tradewind of Lynher, who had just returned to Grenada having been cruising in Venezuela for many years (and who, amazingly, are in their 70s!)…

New DimensionsSylvia and Peter

We were back on board relatively early for a light supper and settled down to our first night on anchor this season.  It was a little rolly – but nicely so and quite soothing.  Well, it was until about 3 am when I was taken really ill.    Not sure what started it as we have both eaten and drunk the same for the last few days….  

Saturday morning and I’m still feeling rough – we go ashore to get some provisions from the local shop – and Richard has breakfast ashore while I try some toast and tea.   On the way back we spot a couple of boats a bit too close together, especially with the wind getting up and 30 knots forecast for later today.   Then we realise that one of them has actually dragged into another and the guy on the front is trying desperately to stop his boat getting damaged.   Getting back on board and turning on the radio and we realise that this is not an isolated incident – the volunteer rescue service is being tested today!    We also see a large helicopter moving low over the sea followed by the Grenada Coast Guard zooming out of the anchorage….   Fingers crossed it doesn’t mean anything serious going on out there.Dragging.....

After all that excitement I’m still feeling really poorly so take to my bed for the rest of the day while Richard gets on with some really useful jobs like taking out the dimmable tungsten halogen overhead lights and converting them into LEDs.  This has taken down our lighting load from 160 watts to 24 watts which will be much better for our batteries.   He also cuts the hard wiring to all the other lights and fans and puts in connectors so that they can easily be removed for cleaning and repair in future.    And now the wind is really howling – so he did a last minute check around – and we settle down for the night.   Didn’t sleep much – the creaking and groaning combined with significant howling and heavy rain wasn’t conducive really!

Sunday and I’m still feeling rough – Richard carries on working on boat jobs and I settle into the cockpit for a cuppa.   The wind still howling and it’s very grey out there – with huge seas running – but at least the rain is intermittent now.   Then we noticed a bit of excitement when we realise a very large trimaran had run aground on the reef – and luckily Rescue One were out there helping them get free.  Hope the boat isn’t too badly damaged….   We had been invited out for dinner tonight but had to give it a swerve – I haven’t been able to eat anything substantial yet and, with the weather continuing to howl, we really didn’t want to leave Morphie.  So another quiet night on board.

This morning – Monday – and thankfully I’m feeling a bit better, the sun has come out, the wind has moderated a bit, and we have come ashore to take advantage of the internet.   Hoping to have a beach afternoon today if the weather holds.

Bye for now

Jan

    

Work and play….

We have now settled easily back into our routine – mornings are for boat jobs and afternoons are for having fun!

We awoke Friday morning – still in Le Phare Bleu marina – to a beautifully stunning bright day with a flat calm sea as we looked out from the bow.   Wow!

View from the bow

Richard is still trying to work out where to store everything and is reorganising his tools and spare parts into a more logical order…   Along with essential things like changing impellers, fan belts, tightening stuffing glands etc.    I was definitely in the way so decided to get busy on the stainless steel again – and we were both pretty pleased with our efforts.   Suitably hot and bothered we took ourselves off to the pool and enjoyed a leisurely few hours until we returned to Morphie for a curry dinner on board.    Walking back we enjoyed the sights of the Vastra Banken lit up for Christmas.

Christmas at Le Phare Bleu

Christmas at Le Phare Bleu 1

Christmas at Le Phare Bleu 2

Saturday morning up early and again Richard is doing essential mechanical maintenance things down below – and I’m off to the shop for some more ice.   It looks like our fridge is playing up unfortunately.   Oh well….things do break on boats.   Will give it another couple of days to see how it gets on before we call out someone to help.  We have done all the obvious trouble-shooting things…   Anyway, after I come back I start on the woodwork – there are a few spots on the rail where the varnish has started to peel – so I rubbed them down and did some patch repairs.   Pretty pleased with my efforts!

In the middle of all this, we were pleased to see Eric and Pat from Cutter Loose – another Island Packet – who had just pulled in having splashed from Grenada Marine.   Really nice to see them again.   After a few hours in the pool cooling off we came back, cleaned up, and headed into the restaurant for dinner…. and were joined by Eric and Pat and had a lovely evening catching up.   Oh yes, there was a polar bear in the restaurant too…. and Morphie was looking very festive with her new Christmas lights at the end of the dock.

Polar bear alert!

Morphie gets in the Christmas spirit too....

Sunday morning and we declare it a day of rest.   So at noon we head off to Taffys in Lower Woburn for Sunday lunch with Sha Sha.  Roast pork and fresh veggies with the rare addition of a Yorkshire pudding – not very Caribbean I know, but couldn’t resist it!   Yum.

Lower Woburn dock

We enjoyed the dinghy ride there and back and the views from the restaurant across to Calvigny Island – a very exclusive island resort which has to be rented in its entirety and can take up to 50 guests for an unpublished price!

View out to Calvigny Island

Headed back about 2.30 pm having said our farewells….    Bit rainy and we hoped that it would hold off as there is a dinghy concert this afternoon.   Back on the dock, quickly got ourselves ready, and then took the big rib over to the barge for the concert.   Today Madison Violet were playing – a singer songwriter duo from Toronto.

On the barge we enjoyed watching the dinghies coming in and had a bit of a giggle at the cruiser’s dog with sunglasses – just one of many sights to be seen!    The concert was great, the beer was cold and the company was fun.   I did feel for the group though – the barge they were performing on was really rolling and at one point they had to grab on to avoid falling over!   People fell over on our barge too – but this may have been excess alcohol???

Doggy sunglasses

Dinghy concert 1

Dinghy concert 2

Dinghy concert 3

Dinghy concert 4

Dinghy concert 5

They even sent Mike up the mast to take the video…..

Dinghy concert 6Thankfully we didn’t get any serious downpours although there was a lovely rainbow at one point.

Rainbow

Monday morning and we were supposed to be on our way out to the anchorages.  But unfortunately the fridge is definitely playing up – and it’s pouring with rain – so we are staying put and have asked for a guy to come by to have a look.   So it looks like we will remain marina dwellers for a little while longer…..

We have an important announcement to make – there has been a crew change this season!    Bubo the owl decided that he didn’t like being parted from his mum and Hullbridge so he was returned to Elaine – who was pretty happy to get him back!    That left us with a vacancy and Jack donated Gervaise – the monkey – as a replacement.  Gervaise has been living on board Jack’s boat which was anchored in the Crouch and he wanted some sun.   So he is now on Morphie and is entertaining us with his magical dance moves and monkey noises.  You cannot fail to be happy when he gets going…so a welcome addition!

New crew member - GervaiseGervaise getting comfy

Bye for now

Jan

Back in the water….

IMPORTANT NOTE:   We changed our mobile phone contracts before leaving the UK and are now no longer able to receive text messages (which was not something we realised).   We are not ignoring you!   Please use e-mail instead to contact us.   Thanks.

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Monday morning and we are up very very early….   Had to leave the hire car in the car park and had a cab coming for us at 7.30 am.   We have already reserved a marina slip – not a great one to be fair – but it will suit our purpose.   So off we go quite nervously anticipating the launch day ahead.

When we arrived in the boat yard we were disappointed that no-one was around to finish off the anti-fouling.  We still needed the hurricane cradle struts removed and new ones put in place so that they could prime and paint the spots that had been missed.  Well – nothing happened – and we are now in a position where the paint will not have time to dry between coats and being launched.  So we head off to the office and they say they will launch us later in the afternoon.    Not happy with that – there is supposed to be eight hours between last coat and ‘splash’ for optimum ablative paint performance.   So we have  a bit  of a debate and decide that it is probably in our own best interests to get them to finish the paint today and splash Tuesday morning instead.   So we organise this with the boatyard, extend our hotel stay and reschedule our arrival into Le Phare Bleu marina too.    Phew….  Oh hang on, we haven’t got any transport to get back either!   Oh dear…     

The ‘boys’ have now gone for lunch so we headed into the boatyard restaurant – Richard wisely went for the local special of beef stew but I madly went for the fish….which was absolutely disgusting.   I am a bit particular about fish and it was just too strong for me – Richard tried a bit and wouldn’t have eaten it either.  So decided best thing to do was to feed it to the boat dogs – had a particular favourite who came by every day, so enjoyed some cupboard love!   

Cute boatyard dog

Anyway we decide to hang around for the rest of the day to check that all the paint is done and finished before we leave and then organise for Blendon the taxi driver to come back to collect us.    Unfortunately it was late again by the time we left so we missed our final chance of seeing Pam and Glen before they flew home for Christmas.  Shame….

On the way back to the hotel, Blendon could sense that we were tired, very very hot and a bit fed up with the whole thing, so suggested we visit a rum shop on the way back.  Which was a great experience sitting by the side of the road watching the world go by enjoying a couple of very cold beers.   A really welcome break!     Arriving back at Le Phare Bleu we were both so shattered we just had showers and went to bed – would you believe by 8 pm!!!!  

Tuesday morning up very very early again and Blendon was back for a 7.30 am pickup.   Full of anticipation and a bit nervous about what was to come as we have never launched Morphie before and getting her out of the water was pretty stressful!    Well…anyway….we got there in good time and then waited, and then the heavens opened, and we waited again.  Did some useful stuff like checking all Y valves and fresh-water flushing the diesel engine to ensure it would run freely.  Finally we heard the beepers of the travel lift coming towards us and we had to get off of Morphie for the last time on land – with both of us giving her a quick hug.   

Richard admiring Morphie's new bottom paint

All mooring lines and fenders were ready and now we just had to stand around and watch her being got ready and lifted for splashing back into the sea.   Sooooo nervous!   Quite a spectacle….

Getting into place

Pulling the strops through underneath

Careful guys!

Great lift operator - thankfully!

Towards the dock

Finally going in

Finally she is in – we climb back on board from her stern – and we throw the lines ashore.    The line handlers calmly keep her in the middle of the slip, although we have fenders along both sides just in case, and then the travel lift throws off her shackles and reverses away.   Morphie is finally back in the sea where she belongs and the engine starts like a dream and we motor away.   Phew – mission accomplished!

Immediately we picked up a mooring ball out in the bay and started to hank on the main sail…   Of course there were rain squalls while we did it but thankfully we managed before finally taking our last look at Grenada Marine.

Final view of Grenada Marine

We then headed off out and did the few miles around to Le Phare Bleu marina.   And it was horrible – lumpy, big seas, swelly etc, the works – but you know what, we just didn’t care as we were back on board Morphie where we belong.   Pulling into the channel at Le Phare Bleu and we were met by Stairon (the dockmaster) who told us where our berth was – and we were delighted to be allocated one tucked up right into the corner.   Which, ironically, was the same berth we left from in August.  Hurrah!

During the course of our trip we heard Troubadour on the radio from Mount Hartman Bay.  Thought they had left Grenada already!    Made contact but, unfortunately, they were leaving in the morning so no chance to get together with them either.  But no doubt we will catch up with them up island later on. 

We secured Morphie for the night and headed off back to our room.  After cleaning ourselves up we enjoyed a couple of happy hour drinks watching the sun going down then – after checking on her again – we crashed for another early night.

Nice sunset view from the bar

Up early Wednesday and we were on board Morphie by 8 am to hank on the two head sails before the wind got up – hurrah, all done!    Now back to the room to pack it all up – bringing down the food and fridge / freezer contents first – then back for the clothes, bags, spare parts and other important stuff like tea-bags!     Finally we had everything on board – but not stowed – and the next thing was to clear a path to our cabin and make it habitable for the night.  We also had to get dink off the coach roof, re-inflated, and the outboard reinstalled….  Finished by just before 5pm – what a full-on day – and had a couple of beers before headed off back for another early night.  Becoming a bit of a habit!

Thursday – today – we awoke very early and we did jobs again.  Richard was doing important stuff like reinstalling dorades, replacing gas struts, organising spares etc etc and I was doing things like laundry, collecting our cockpit cushions which had new closed cell foam installed, and polishing the stainless.   We decided that we would call it a day at lunchtime today so headed off in dink and surprised Sha Sha with a visit round in Hog Island anchorage.   Spent a very pleasurable few hours bobbing in their fancy chairs and then back on board for dinner and a relaxing evening…..

Richard and Jim enjoying their rum ration

Dink and Jim Jim enjoying the sunset together

Bye for now

Jan

 

Morphie gets spruced up!

Thursday morning we head back bright and early to the boatyard…. full of expectations about the antifoul work starting today on Morphie’s bottom.  We have all the paint purchased – and wow it’s very expensive! – everything is ready to go, we just need the workers.  So we carry on unpacking and putting things in order….but still no-one shows up.  Oh dear – island time again!  This drives me bonkers and I’m not allowed to go to the office to make my displeasure known as it will only make things worse – so Richard tracks them down and with his smooth talking, soon a chap turns up to do the primer coat.  And we are now working against the clock as they knock off at 5pm and time is ticking!  Not confident at all at this point that we are going to meet our ‘splash’ date of Monday.  So I carry on down below and Richard supervises the work – and, wow, Morphie has been tangoed with yellow primer.  Eventually we head back to the hotel and were sorry to have missed Glen and Pam who popped in earlier for a drink… Had a nice dinner in the restaurant as a treat and then early to bed. It was a stressful day!

Morphie got tangoed

Friday we were up bright and early again and headed off to the boat yard in our trusty hire car.  Richard continues to hone his racing car skills.  He tells me that he isn’t going that fast and that I’m just a very nervous passenger.  Yes there is some truth in that but he’s not the one looking directly down into huge drop offs on my side of the road or very large deep water gullies whizzing alongside with what seems like inches to spare!  On the way to the marina we picked up some local delicacies from the bakery and I had a very funny encounter with six large rasta men who were getting their breakfast and couldn’t believe that a tourist was up that early!   I’m not sure whether they were on their way home from a party or going to work – but I think they remained under the influence of something or other….

Our hire car

Arriving at the boat yard and the guys turn up on time…  Hurrah!   I make myself busy unpacking, but we are pretty much there now and not a lot more to be done until we get into the water and hoist the sails on, re-inflate the dinghy etc.   So I head off to the laundry to make the most of the self-service machines – took ages – and all the time beating off the thousands of midges that live around the boatyard in all the standing water!   Finally finished the laundry and head back to Morphie and was delighted to see that they had finished one coat and were about to start the second.  I then spotted that they were about to splash another yacht – so followed along to see what happened. Glad I watched it – not sure that it has filled me with confidence as the line handlers were a bit casual!   Anyway…. back to Morphie and she is almost finished.  Just the areas to be done when the hurricane cradle ‘arms’ are removed.  And she is looking absolutely beautiful.

Morphie 1

Morphie 2

The minute the guys packed up for the weekend so did we!  We headed back to our room for a night in front of the telly after some food….  With the villa opened up and the beautiful scents from the lovely grounds it truly is a special spot.

Making lunch !

Our villa opened up

Our villa opened up 2

Pretty grounds around our villa

Pretty grounds around our villa 2

Saturday we took a day off from the boat yard as the guys are not working – so headed off into town to do a big provisioning run while we have the benefit of a car.  Massive shop – and more stuff from the chandlery of course – and back to the villa to get all of it put away.  Had a leisurely afternoon chilling and then headed off to Little Woburn to meet Jim and Sharon from Sha Sha who were celebrating Jim’s birthday.

Chilling

Well the taxi didn’t turn up – so we cadged a lift from the security guy – and Richard got to ride in the back of a pickup truck!  What fun….  Arrived at the restaurant and were a little put off by the huge crowds of people around in the square below and the loudest music ever.  Apparently there had been a naked car wash event earlier and this was the spin-off party, along with a ‘twerking’ competition.  Richard was a bit disappointed we had arrived too late for the main event!!!   Anyway – had our reunion with Jim and Sharon – and it was lovely to catch up with them and to meet other new faces.  Had a good time but, would you believe it, we left at 9pm as we had another busy day ahead of us.

Jim's birthday bash

Sunday up really early and we headed off to the boat yard to do what we could – as well as dropping some stuff off that we needed for Monday’s launch.  Spent a few hours there and then returned to the villa via a bit of a scenic route – and Richard picked up two hitchhikers again…   So spent about 15 minutes chatting to the young man who was all dressed up and was running late for church.    Followed by the rather stinky rasta man who got a bit panicky when the child locks wouldn’t let him out LOL.

It rained and rained and rained all day…. so we enjoyed a lazy afternoon in our villa.  At about 4ish it cleared up a bit but not enough to get in the pool so we just took up residence in some comfy chairs and enjoyed watching the weather – later we were joined by Jim and Sharon for happy hour sundowners – and then early to bed after a cheese on toast supper!   A big day beckons.

Bye for now
Jan

Back in Grenada!

Had an incredibly hectic week or so trying to say goodbye to everybody – had some great laughs, amazing generosity and kindness shown, as well as some sadness at parting again…..  Thank you all for making our few months at home so special.

Finally we were packed up and headed off to Heathrow with as much hand luggage as we could physically manage and bags for the hold on the limit in terms of weight! And I promise only about 20% was clothes related…..  We are travelling cattle class this time – no turning left for this girl now that we are cruisers.  Well, after a slowish run around the M25 through the miles of roadworks we arrived to be confronted by huge British Airways signs warning us about everything, but especially about heavy bags and over sized hand luggage!   Oh dear…  So we headed off to the “weigh and repackage area” – supplied just so that we take them seriously I guess??? – and made sure we only had one checked bag that would incur the extra £40 charge. Now at the drop bag desk and the BA woman was a bit concerned that we didn’t have ESTAs on file – and was very relieved to find that we had US visas… So much so that she forgot to charge us. Result!

BA notices

After getting through security checks we ended up in the departure lounge admiring the very trendy Christmas trees that adorned the terminal. Eventually our gate was announced so off we go – full of strange feelings and a little nervousness – thinking of friends and family we are leaving behind at the same time as being excited about seeing Morphie again.

Christmas comes to Heathrow

Was an OK flight – chicken or pasta meal choice as usual – please change the tune.  Oh yes, and if the chicken is in a mushroom sauce tell me. Yuck!!!   To make up for it there was a nice Pinot Grigio available so we settled down and enjoyed a couple of good movies. Filled in the US customs declaration and steeled myself for the usual two to three hour nightmare that is immigration in Miami – what!?!?!?   Through in less than an hour – a record for us – and, in fact, it took us longer to walk there from the plane than it did to get processed!   Feeling a little smug – we got a cab to the hotel and checked in. Richard usually likes to hit the bar for a night cap but he is shattered and wants to go straight to bed. Very unusual but feeling pretty tired myself so didn’t argue…

Up very early – that five hour time difference always does that to us – so had breakfast and headed out to Home Depot to purchase a 110V sander. Mission accomplished – but frustrated that our US bank account cards were rejected at the ATM. WTF??? So got back to our room and I called them – luckily it was a free call – to find out that they had not been activated on their system and could not be done retrospectively. Soooooo frustrating as we had done this in London in August. Oh well I guess that small pot of dollars is safe this trip!

Now it was time to go to the airport – usual Miami chaos resumed – and it took a while to get checked in.    We avoided the $100 excess baggage charge again because we offloaded 9lbs into our hand luggage because they didn’t care about the size. But am pretty fed up with repacking constantly!  Finally all done and we wandered through the terminal admiring the fish art on the way…..

Fish art in Miami airport

Fish art 3

Fish art 2

Then we finally settled into our favourite bar which just happened to conveniently be opposite our gate.   Shared a lunch of fish and prawn with fries … along with a Corona. Life is good!

Favourite Miami airport bar

Time for lunch

Watching the gate from the bar

Onto the next flight – a few hours later and we are arriving into Grenada. Queued up in the red channel at customs and declared all our boat spares / tools, paid the duty, and was warmly welcomed by Martin the “yellow taxi man” that we had used last time. Quick road trip and we are checking into our lovely self-contained villa at Le Phare Bleu – and went off to the bar for our first ice cold Carib. Fantastic – and was warmly welcomed back by the staff who all remembered us. Lovely….and so to bed in the air conditioned bedroom after Richard had dutifully dispatched the very large cockroach who had taken up residence in the mosquito net over the four poster.

Our villa

Awoke this morning to a hot day – what a difference from freezing London!    And I was puzzled by all the noises outside – had a peak and it was a huge flock of starling-like birds who had taken a shine to the tree outside our door. When they spotted me they all flew off – and resembled a Hitchcock scene!   Spooky… After an early breakfast – enjoying the lovely views from the restaurant – we took delivery of our hire car and headed off to Grenada Marine to see Morphie.

Resort restaurant

Resort beach

Resort marina

Very nervous now – would she be OK?  We know that recently some boats had been broken into – and, assuming in the absence of news we are unaffected – but still nervous!   And did we do it right?   Will we be bug infested or mould ridden?  Thankfully she was looking great waiting for her protective wax to be removed and no problems on any front. Phew – relief.  Felt great to be reunited….

Morphie 1

Morphie 2

Spent a busy (hot!) day unpacking some of her contents, airing stuff, and putting some canvas back on…. Called it a day at 4pm and came back for pool happy hour, followed by a quick noodle dinner and so to bed.

Resort pool

Bye for now
Jan

Preparation for our next cruising season

We have been home almost three months and I can’t believe how the time has flown… So heavily into preparation mode now.   Loads to do although it is a bit easier this year as finding insurers to meet our needs took me a lot of time last year – renewing policies is a much easier process…..  So insurances sorted for house, car, boat and ourselves….

Now just the rest of the administrative stuff to finish off like paying all the bills (groan…), working out what papers we need to take with us and remembering the stuff that caused us grief last year, like the paper versions of our driving licences.    Grenada – unlike all the other islands we travelled to – really did not like accepting our plastic driving licences to give us temporary driving permits….   Don’t fancy going through that at the police station again!   So check – they are ready to go….

Whilst I have been a lady that lunches and generally doing domestic goddess duties, Richard went back to work as he got an offer he couldn’t refuse.   He retired again last Friday so is now busy doing stuff that I couldn’t manage – like repairing the shed roof that decided to leak….    We’ve had a great time seeing loads of friends and family and the rest of the time we are in the UK is absolutely manic – with one very busy social week planned.   Those people we haven’t managed to catch up with – sorry – we’ll prioritise you for next year!

Although Richard has been working he has also been busy buying spare parts and tools for Morphie and I’ve been buying all the domestic stuff that we found we needed and couldn’t get on our travels – exciting stuff like plastic egg holders, a mosquito net, clothes pegs and a lovely new teapot!    There was some important stuff too like more paper charts, a Garmin chart plotter upgrade chip and prescription dive masks (for us both)…

This year we are travelling economy using our air miles so I can see us being laden with as much hand luggage as we can get away with to try and avoid the US $100 per checked bag excess luggage charge!  Not confident though as we’ve also been buying new clothes!   Oh well what will be will be….

The most exciting new item that will be coming with us is a brand new waterproof camera – something we have had our eye on for a while.  So imagine our surprise and absolute delight when we were given it as a gift!   Thank you so much Ron and Carolyn Smith – very very generous and greatly appreciated.   So watch out for all the more unusual photos we plan to take over the next nine months!

After a hectic social whirl we’ll be doing the final things like cleaning the house and winterising the car before we fly to Miami on Monday 25 November.   An overnight stop before we fly to Grenada on Tuesday afternoon means that Richard gets an opportunity to buy some more power tools that he needs and we can’t buy here either as we are looking for 110V stuff – the joys of owning an American-built boat!

So what do we have planned for next season?   Well the plan is pretty simple – run north back up the island chain, re-visiting favourites and ignoring those we are less keen on.   Catching up with some cruiser friends on the way and a reunion with Mum again planned for March in St Lucia.    So longer periods at sea probably with more overnights….   After running north – which will enable us to get a better sailing angle – we will be running south to the Dutch Antilles, Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao which are off the coast of Venezuela.   Will be a four day 400 mile run probably…   Very excited by this!    Love exploring new places and Bonaire is a dive mecca…. so have great expectations.   When will be doing this?   Not sure – but probably in June as the hurricane season starts and the Dutch Antilles are below the hurricane belt…..   We may leave Morphie there but we are also considering Columbia as our final destination – and I’ve been learning Spanish while I’ve been home just in case!     So plans are fluid at this stage and all depends…..  We’ll let you know when we know!   The only thing that is certain is that we’ll be home again at the end of August 2014.

So welcome back – and bye for now.

Jan

Time to reflect….

We started our first cruising season at the end of November 2012 and were immediately frustrated by the fit-out work not having being completed when we arrived in St Thomas – everyone being on island time – but were particularly annoyed as we had given six months’ notice prior to our arrival in the islands. And that’s without mentioning the stuff that wasn’t done properly the first time round and had to be rectified…..

While we were waiting on crucial parts to be delivered – we pottered around and visited Tortola, Norman Island, Virgin Gorda, Jost van Dyke, Marina Cay, Anegada, St John, Peter Island and Cooper Island, sometimes just going the long way round to reintroduce ourselves to Morphie and get used to sailing her again. We enjoyed a fantastic Christmas (thanks in particular to the Corsairs gang!) and celebrated New Year’s Eve in Cane Garden Bay – before we returned for our third and final time into Red Hook, St Thomas, US Virgin Islands and finally slipped for our new adventure on 5 January 2013.

We then did our final spin through the British Virgin Islands to say goodbye to all the friends we had made over the years as well as waiting for an appropriate weather window – and putting the frustrations behind us we finally slipped for St Martin on 18 January 2013.  We had a tough overnight trip but were pleased with the way we – and Morphie – stood up to it….

We visited the following islands and I’ve asterisked our favourites:

  • St Martin* – great food, great supermarkets, lovely scenery and fantastic French pastries for breakfast.
  • Saint Maarten – Dutch side and more commercial
  • Anguilla* – sleepy, welcoming people and up-market resorts
  • St Bartholomew (St Barts) – expensive and full of huge superyachts
  • St Eustatius* (Statia) – sleepy, welcoming people and an amazing volcano
  • St Kitts – fantastic history, annoying customs practices, some dodgy areas
  • Nevis* – beautiful black sand beaches, friendly beach bars but difficult to beach dink
  • Antigua – loads of history and great marina
  • Barbuda – pink beach and amazing frigate bird sanctuary
  • Guadeloupe – bad weather meant we didn’t really explore much
  • Iles de Saintes* – beautiful islands and French food
  • Dominica* – stunning rainforest, volcanos, waterfalls, rivers, rum shops, fantastic diving and friendly people but poor for provisioning
  • Martinique – great beaches and historic capital but average food and poor service
  • St Lucia* – great choice of restaurants, best Chinese ever, amazing to anchor under the Pitons and, of course, holiday with mum.
  • Bequia* – sleepy, great beach, friendly people, fantastic varnish work by Winfield
  • Mustique* – part of British history, shame it was a bit quiet when we were there
  • Canouan – good anchorage, nice beach and hotel, cheap beer in the supermarket, but theft from a boat behind us.
  • Tobago Cays* – the jewel in the crown.  Turtles galore.
  • Mayreau* – Saltwhistle Bay fantastic picturesque beach but didn’t like the vibe of the village or Saline Bay anchorage
  • Union Island* – Chatham Bay amazing and friendly but boat boys annoying in Clifton and boat stolen whilst we were there
  • Happy Island* – Jonti’s little paradise
  • Petit St Vincent* – beautiful anchorage with pale blue water and great beach bar
  • Carriacou* – sleepy, friendly, welcoming island and great t-shirt shopping.
  • Grenada* – amazing marinas, rolly anchorages, fantastic beach, lovely hotel, big supermarkets, chandleries and Morphie’s home for the worst of the hurricane season.

In total – excluding duplicate visits to islands in the US and British Virgin Islands at the start of our trip and when we returned north for the Smith family holiday – we sailed to 34 islands and visited 56 anchorages…..covering 1251 miles.   What an adventure!

Reflecting on our experiences we had the following highs:

  • Meeting some great cruiser couples / families and forging lasting friendships
  • Meeting cruisers who are young at heart if not in years
  • Dolphins!
  • Turtles!
  • Fantastic bobbing in wonderful clear blue sea
  • Great food – particularly in French St Martin, Anguilla, St Lucia, Union Island and Grenada
  • Seeing a seahorse and two frogfish on a single dive in Bequia
  • Pristine and uncrowded dive sights – particularly in Statia and Dominica
  • Navigating to and from different islands / anchorages
  • Visiting so many wonderful islands – different cultures, fantastic history, friendly people, amazing sightseeing
  • Beautiful beaches…
  • Swimming under waterfalls
  • Driving through rainforests / volcanos
  • Mechanical failures that we could fix ourselves
  • Eating fresh fruit as it falls from trees when out walking
  • The full moon / the sunrise / the sunset / sailing (particularly at night) / isolated anchorages and living on board
  • Carnival!

And then there were the lows:

  • Frustrating delay in starting our cruising life
  • Island Yacht staff not turning up for our leaving party
  • Trying to keep up with the dirty laundry
  • Cruisers who think that our common lifestyle makes us good friends on first meeting
  • Cruisers who are young in years but old in habits (er…I mean boring!)
  • Provisioning in some islands, particularly for good quality meat
  • Receiving bad news from home and not being able to do anything about it
  • Emotional response to news from home – even the good news!
  • Some unfriendly / shady locals
  • No whales!
  • Bureaucracy of moving between islands and overtime fees
  • Mechanical failures that we couldn’t fix ourselves
  • Leaving Morphie on the hard on her own

So the burning question is did the cruising life suit us?   YES!     Would we do it again?  YES!   Did the lows ever outweigh the highs?  NEVER…     A fantastic adventure and we are very excited about doing it all again…. although not sure of our route yet for next season.   We leave home on 26 November arriving in Grenada on 27 November to continue our cruising life.   So that’s it folks….   Please return to view the blog at the end of November.   And to round it all off, I’ll leave you with a snapshot of the last amazing nine months.  Enjoy!

Jan

 

Final days in Grenada

Wednesday headed off early to the boatyard…. It was a squally day with rain showers coming through frequently and of course this was the day I was trying to get the rugs dry….and they kept getting rained on!!!!   Without the canvas we also got rain coming in down below through the companionway – so with that shut down it was a bit like working in a sauna…..  Anyway around 3pm – having achieved quite a lot with bagging and packing up stuff – we called it a day and went back to our air conditioned apartment and watched TV!!!

Thursday and we are finally getting there….. Never did we dream that laying up Morphie for a few months would be so much work!  We have been flat out for over a week now….. but we also recognise that as we haven’t done this before we have probably gone way over the top…. Will be interesting to see what strategies worked and what didn’t when we get back. We called it a day early afternoon and went back to the marina to enjoy happy hour in the pool along with the crew of moodyfinn – Chris, Jaana and their beautiful kids James, Charlie and Alice. Went back to our apartment for dinner and then down to their boat for a chat – now that they had got the kids to bed.. Great evening – ended up a bit of a late night! – really fun people.

Friday and off out early again and we spent most of the day washing everything down with water and vinegar – which is supposed to help prevent mould in this humid environment – and went back to the marina pretty early as we had made arrangements to go out in the evening. Friday night we got a cab down to Mount Hartman bay to pick up Chris and Linda and then went round to the Dodgy Dock restaurant at the True Blue resort. It was Mexican night – with a great live band and professional dancers showing their amazing skills. Fun time had by all and Chris and Linda even enjoyed a dance…. unlike us both who were quite happy to just watch!

 

Saturday and we are up early determined that this will be it at the boatyard – so we packed our suitcases, vacuum packed down the clothes we were planning to leave behind, and headed over to Morphie. Went via Island Water World to pick up some pre-ordered spares – spare toilet and water pump this time – and then did a quick drive to the airport so that we knew how to get there on Monday morning.  Arrived at the boatyard – thankfully hurricane cradle is now complete – and went through our checklists. All done…time to say goodbye. Well that was it – I’m blubbing like a baby and really don’t want to leave Morphie…. Incredibly mixed emotions – I really want to see my friends and family – but also want to continue with the adventure…. We are only going home for three months – this is ridiculous – get a grip woman!

Drove away sadly and I managed to get it together by the time we arrived back at the marina. Decided to treat ourselves to lunch in the restaurant and were surprised to bump into Chris and Linda who had dinked round for lunch!  Anyway…..lunch turned into an afternoon session in the pool….joined by others from the marina….and onto the veranda of our room for a few more hours. What a great end to the day and cheered me up no end!

Sunday morning and we headed to the pool quite early – and then got a lift round to Hog Island where we spent the afternoon listening to the live reggae band whilst bobbing in the warm water with Chris, Jaana and the kids…. Lovely.

Then we headed back to the pool and bobbed with mum and dad as well as played with the kids…. Richard even played monsters…..   And I joined in with them doing backward somersaults in the water…  Unfortunately the pool wasn’t quite deep enough and I ended up scraping my face along the bottom…. So surfaced a bit bloody and had a very very sore nose. This is going to look great!!!   Mmmmmmm… Oh well – damage done – time to say farewell to the family. Hope to catch up with them again at some point in the future.

Monday fly day and we have a tiring trip ahead as, to keep the costs down, we have used our air miles so are heading the long way round home – Grenada to Miami to Houston to London!!!  Anyway we had a very very early start – enjoyed the sight of the sun coming up over the bay as we left – and headed off to the airport. Checked in and security cleared we settled down to breakfast….

The plane took off on time – with me getting upset at leaving Morphie behind again!!! – and we enjoyed the beautiful sights of the Turks and Caicos islands and the Bahamas below us through the clouds.

Landed on time – and did the usual five mile walk round the houses to get to the immigration desks. Big sign up warning people that federal cuts had impacted upon staffing levels so waiting times had increased! Oh great – and we have a connection in three hours. Well it was the usual nightmare – why do we always get put into a line behind a range of people that the immigration people decide need to be investigated a bit more thoroughly than most???!!! Grrrrrrr…….. Anyway we finally got through to the baggage claim area after almost two hours and legged it through customs / rechecking the bags / and onto the gate where our plane is leaving from. We managed to get there with half an hour to spare so quickly grabbed a Chinese takeout and found a table … PS spot the red nose!!!!

Took off again on time and had an uneventual trip to Houston – found the little weird underground electric train to change terminals and had a couple of cold beers at the Texas restaurant while waiting for our London connection. Took off on time and nine hours later we landed in London. Home again…. and it was sunny!

Not planning to blog whilst I’m at home – but do plan an overview of this trip, along with the highs and the lows – which I’ll get done soon…. So this is just another ‘bye for now’….

Jan

 

Laying up….

Wednesday we picked up our anchor off of Grand Anse beach and headed round to Le Phare Bleau marina, on the south coast of Grenada, where we are booked in. We had a really uncomfortable trip with 20 knot winds on the nose and five foot seas….and couldn’t sail it either!  We barely made three knots under engine and were pleased to get in the area of the bay where the marina is situated – bad news was that the sea state meant we couldn’t tell where the reefs where even though it was at noon with the sun high in the sky!   Never mind – we picked our way in gingerly and found the markers on this dog legged entry – and were assisted into our alongside slip by the dockmaster and his assistant. Great line handlers – good slip – and we were very happy to find ourselves with fast internet on board!   Once we were set we started work with gusto and the first job was to remove dink from the davits and get cleaning – as well as removing the outboard onto the rail. We then treated ourselves to cheap beer at happy hour – very happy at about a £1 a bottle! We came back on board to have dinner and an early night….. Productive day but very tiring and also a bit emotionally charged – the start of the hard work marks the final days of our first cruising season. Can’t quite believe we have been out almost nine months…..

Thursday we started dismantling stuff and sorting out jobs we need to do…. There is so much – but the main tasks today were polishing and protecting dink’s hyperlon tubes; to fresh water flush the outboard motor; take some canvass off, clean and re-waterproof it as well as starting to clean the external stainless steel. Oh yes we took the main and staysail off too – flaking and bagging them on the dock. We left the genoa to be done when we get to the boatyard just in case of an engine failure on the way…… The unforeseen downside to removing the main at this stage was that the furler foil inside the mast bangs around without a sail….and drove us crazy. Luckily it couldn’t be heard far from the boat – we did walk the docks to check! – so we just had to put up with it…. Happy Hour in the bar – cheap beer again – and we loved the fact that Captain Jack Sparrow visited for Happy Argggghhhhh in his sunken ship!!!!

Friday – more stainless to be done; we also thoroughly cleaned and waxed the topsides; removed more canvass / washed it / rewaterproofed it; and lifted dink up onto the coachroof where he will live whilst on the hard. Also “pickled” the watermaker for storage…. And done some other stuff too…. Wow this is hard physical work – and we were hoping to link up with a local chap to help us with the heavy stuff – but although we left messages he didn’t turn up… Oh well… This evening Happy Hour was on the Vastra Banken – the historic lightship that is a formal restaurant (in high season) and has a cruisers lounge and houses the marina’s toilet and shower block… Amazing place…. Enjoyed a lovely sunset tonight….

Saturday – more of the same… and took ourselves off to the beautiful pool for a few hours into happy hour…. Back on board for an early night. We are sleeping really well with all this physical activity!

Sunday and it was time to start on the interior – we were lucky enough to be invited to Hog Island by Larry off of Slipstream V but sadly declined. But we’ll definitely take him up on his offer next week when all work will be finished!!!! Quiet exhausted night on board and early to bed.

Monday and it was time to go round to Grenada Marine for haul out. Amazing kindness from the owners of Le Phare Bleu who gave us access to our booked apartment very early in the morning so we were able to move all our clothes and remaining food stocks in before we left….. Did a very tight turn onto the fuel dock – very successful, well done Richard!!!! – and then we were on our way. Was another rough trip (and our last this season…. boo hoo…..) with rain at times – but it was only a few miles away…. Worked our way into the bay and picked up a mooring ball…. Took a final crew photo while we waited around to be called to the lift dock….

At this point they told us we have to go stern too – no-one told us that!   Not happy – the wind was blowing hard and we had frequent rain squalls coming through. Anyway…..we made it into the slip…. but unfortunately the wind caught us out and Morphie’s bow was swept towards to the concrete dock…and even with Richard’s impressive speed of reactions….we touched the dock on her rail…..   Only cosmetic damage sustained on the wood but both of us were really upset….. Nine months out and we manage to scratch the boat on our last manoeuvre??!!?? Damn…….. Anyway – we had to put it behind us quickly – because suddenly Morphie is being lined up with strops and lifted out of the water; jet washed, and then motored around to her final spot. Stressful and worrying times!

We had paid for a hurricane cradle and they lowered her into it. Few more legs to be completed and some props in place as a temporary measure….. Not happy but it will be done before we leave!!! We think it is just a matter of keeping on their case!!!!  We got tied down anyway so very secure….. Also went to visit Glen and Pam’s boat Blue Pearl – took some photos for them – and gave her a pat.

Back to Le Phare Bleu by taxi and enjoyed the open-air veranda, air-conditioned bedroom with huge bed, unlimited water in the showers and the kitchen – complete with huge American style fridge – to cool our remaining libations!

Tuesday we picked up our hire car for the week – a Rav4 – and took off for the boatyard. Up the ladder onto Morphie and removed the genoa….  All three sails were then delivered to the loft for cleaning and storage whilst we are away. Oh wow…. the list keeps growing…. and so damn hot down below with all hatches closed because of rain today….. Richard thinks it could be a good weight loss plan – and we could both do with losing some!

Wednesday more of the same planned…. Phew… Watch this space!

Bye for now

Jan