Wednesday morning and we had breakfast before heading out in our good looking rental 4×4 to explore the island.

It isn’t going to take that long as it is only 9 x 2 miles at its widest point – but we’ve never done this before so looking forward to it.   So we head off with the warning about quick sand in the marshes being the only restriction – oh yes, and no real map. There wasn’t any other traffic – just a few cows and goats wandering. Oh yes, and Carolyn and Ron fancied this prime bit of real estate for a holiday home – bit of a renovation project or what!   Richard was driving and we all enjoyed the concrete roads for a while before we then went onto the sand…. We found a viewpoint of the interior salt ponds – fantastic panorama – but unfortunately the flamingos were out for lunch and we didn’t see one!

We arrived at Loblolly Bay – stunning place and a personal favourite of ours. We had a beer with the owner of the Flash of Beauty and reminisced about playing with the little ones many years ago – felt old when she told us that the boy in question was now a trainee fireman!!!

Moving on we took diversions up and down sand roads and at one point we went up a steep incline between loads of bushes and, of course, if it doesn’t look like a road it probably isn’t!   So Richard had to reverse back down through the winding shrubbery and we were horrified by the noises of the bushes scraping down the side of the SUV….   Once we were back safely on a real road – lesson learnt – we inspected the damage and were pleased to see nothing to write home about – with most scratches coming off with the application of a few wet wipes!   Phew…..

We continued driving – stopping briefly at The Big Bamboo – before we ended up at the Anegada Beach Hotel.     This has the only pool on the island – well, actually, it’s more like a plunge pool – and has some spectacular accommodation. Now that is what I call Glamping – although you need deep pockets at $300 a night!   We stayed here for a while and had a nice lunch before moving on again…..with Carolyn tasting the conch fritters…. Leverick Bay is still in the lead in this competition!

Back to Cow Wreck for a quick one – where I did the usual barmaid routine at the honesty bar – and then returning, finally, to Neptunes where we admired the views over the flat calm anchorage. Going our separate ways for a while we reconvened having freshened up and enjoyed the beautiful sunset together. 

We then all walked along the beach to the Wonky Dog – a new restaurant – and had a great meal, although we were the only ones in there!   The lady serving the restaurant and bar was the owner of the business and her husband was the chef.   She was lovely and friendly and then he came out to see us. Well, a big surprise!   He was a huge tattooed Scotsman from Govan, Glasgow.   We enjoyed good food…. and hope this couple manage to make this new venture work for them.

Back to Neptunes for a pontoonie and we chatted with Mark – one of the owners of the business – and he told us about the significant number of sharks that they were now finding in the anchorage. We knew about the two sizeable tiger sharks they had killed previously – but he said now there were bulls and hammerheads too…..   They are coming in hunting an increased turtle and stingray population. The recent ban on killing sharks had been strictly enforced when Mark had been caught on camera – which had gone viral – killing a very large hammerhead that was patrolling the edges of the waterline where the kids were playing. He had been questioned by the authorities as a result although there is a clause in the new law which says that you are allowed to kill if there is a threat to human life….   Interesting stuff – if you are reading this, and planning to visit soon, I wouldn’t recommend that dip off the back of the boat in the anchorage!  Morphie seems to be having fun anyway….

Thursday morning and we survived the slightly shambolic breakfast service and enjoyed the views while chilling…..

Later on we headed out to Cow Wreck beach. We had a great time bobbing in the water, chilling, eating lunch, and generally just having fun.   Carolyn and Ron particularly enjoyed walking the beach and watching the pelicans fishing…..   A truly magical place – and photos really do not do it justice….

Back to Neptunes in the afternoon and we headed off in separate directions before Richard ran ashore later to pick them up – tonight the plan was cheese and wine in the cockpit whilst enjoying our last spectacular Anegada sunset.   Was a great evening….

 Friday morning up early to see the sun rise and a double rainbow.

Sadly it is time to say goodbye to Neptunes and Anegada.

All week the weather forecast had predicted wind of 10 knots on Friday – but, alas there was nothing! Oh well, never mind. Carolyn and Ron were picked up, luggage stowed, and then we picked up our anchor and worked our way through the mooring field.   As we came to the green marker buoy where you turn at 90 degrees into the channel a large bareboat catamaran came inside us and cut us up – er, hello, you are the overtaking boat, keep clear!   Anyway…. he didn’t…. so was treated to Richard shouting some working class language at him as he drove away at speed.

Leaving the channel behind we motored towards Great Harbour, Jost van Dyke.   No wind although the seas were not as flat as the passage up to Anegada….   Sadly no whales today either…. But we enjoyed the sight of Green Cay and Sandy Cay on the way.

Arriving into Great Harbour we anchored briefly in close so that Carolyn and Ron could be dropped off to check into their room at Ali Babas.   Richard and I then went further out and dropped almost 200 feet of chain in 40 feet of water….   Once we were happy we quickly freshened up and headed into shore and met Carolyn and Ron for a cold one at Ali Babas and some lunch – Carolyn still continuing with her conch competition. We decided to eat at Corsairs, so made reservations, and went our separate ways again for a little while – particularly important for our friends to get out of the heat into the air conditioning! Jealous – me? – OK perhaps a tad!!!!

Later on we met in the bar at Corsairs and caught up with the staff – sadly Vinnie was ill…   We had an excellent dinner and then wandered down to Foxys to join the party. Was a pretty busy night with a DJ playing and Carolyn and Ron actually met Foxy himself which was a bit of a treat.   Was a great end to a hectic and tiring day so we called it a night.

Saturday morning and we met at Ali Babs for breakfast.   Enjoyed chilling for a while admiring the view of the anchorage before wandered down to visit Foxys gift shop.

Foxy himself was sitting outside entertaining the tourists with little singing ditties….. So that was fun – and Carolyn and Ron enjoyed looking at the photos when he came to Buckingham Palace to pick up his gong!   Purchases made and time to head to the beach. We wandered back to Corsairs – met Vinny briefly – and then got Bun to take us in his taxi to White Bay.   Amazing views down to Great Harbour and White Bay from the top of the hill….

We arrived at the Soggy Dollar Bar to be greeted by Mic with the lovely comment ‘welcome back to my UK family’. Nice. Was a busy day in paradise so we bobbed for a while…. Did more shopping in the gift shop…. Bobbed again…. Watched the pelicans fishing…. Admired the huge black yacht – and were told that Sir Paul McCartney was on board and that this was his smaller yacht!   Hmmmmm…… Definitely can’t confirm this rumour…. We then had lunch – with Carolyn declaring that the winner of the conch competition was, to date, the Soggy Dollar who had retained their crown from 2009. Here is a photo to prove it!

We then wandered down to the beach to One Love to find Reuben entertaining the tourists…. Enjoyed listening to him and Richard started on the Bushwackers…..   Enjoyed chatting to others – but Carolyn and Ron were shocked when Seddy came in.   A shambling dirty skinny wreck – and a huge contrast to the smiling rasta magician of yesteryear….   The whole place actually looks pretty seedy and shoddy now too…

Back to the Soggy Dollar to be picked up by Bun and we enjoyed the trip back to Great Harbour.   We popped into Corsairs to make dinner reservations and I managed to trick Carolyn with Vinny’s box of ‘stickers’. She really jumped when the rubber mouse came out – was funny. Obviously this photo is posed for effect LOL…..

We separated to clean up…. and then met again in Corsairs. We had another wonderful dinner and Ron got to meet Vinny briefly.  After dinner we returned to sit at the bar – chatted to Kenroy – and JR the chef.   Followed of course by shots!   And so to bed.

This morning – we are meeting for breakfast – and then another Soggy Day beckons.   We’re having a fantastic holiday with friends with more adventures to follow.

Bye for now

Jan

Saturday morning we got up bright and early for some last minute things … then up to the carpark to pick up our taxi.    We were watching all these nice air-conditioned minibuses driving through and, of course, when ours turns up it is an old safari bus type vehicle.   Oh well….   As we are just about to leave we get a text from Carolyn to say that the ferry has left on time! Wonders will never cease LOL.   We arrive in good time in Spanish Town and had a Carib from the local vendor while waiting – and then the ferry is seen off to the distance and we walk inside the fence.   And they’ve arrived – yay – hugs and kisses all round.

We get a cold restorative Carib for the journey and climb into the safari bus. Although not built for comfort what it does offer is the chance to catch sight of some spectacular views over North Sound.   We haven’t gone across Virgin Gorda by road for a number of years and so it was great to admire the beautiful vista – although, of course, it is a bit difficult to get decent photos when the driver shares Richard’s racing driver tendencies LOL.

Arriving at Leverick, Carolyn and Ron check in to their hotel room and the receptionist gives us a lift up the hill in a pickup truck – so Richard and I climb in the back for the quick journey!

To the room – and we gave them all the bug stuff we had got for them – and we got pressies too!   A selfie stick for the camera, a nice bottle of brandy and beef hula hoops – lovely. Thank you.

Richard and I then left them to it and went back to Morphie – we picked up towels etc – and headed to the small resort beach.   We then spent a few hours bobbing in the pool, having lunch, having a few drinks and generally catching up. Oh yes and of course we had to try out the new selfie stick! Then we went our separate ways and reconvened in the upstairs restaurant at Leverick for an excellent meal and some very nice wine…. Was a lovely start to their holiday.

After dinner we had pontoonies in the Jumbies Beach Bar with Josh the bartender before retiring to bed…..

Sunday morning and Carolyn and Ron came on board for breakfast. We are going across the North Sound to visit Sandbox for the day with dink. Carolyn went for a wander and came back very excited because she had seen a poster which advertised ‘free beer tomorrow’.   When Richard and Ron fell about laughing she realised that, of course, it is always tomorrow and you never actually get any.   Was funny…. Of course, I have to say, I would probably have fallen for it too!!!

Richard decided it would be more fun to take Morphie rather than dink so we left the dock, motored over and picked up a mooring ball.   We had mimosas to celebrate just being there – and lazed around a bit taking in the views – before heading in to the beach. We had a great time bobbing, playing with the waboba, having lunch – with Carolyn on a mission to find the best conch fritters in the islands again LOL – before returning to Morphie. We swam off the back and enjoyed the breeze before heading back in.

Back to our slip smoothly and all is well.   Carolyn and Ron then went back to their room for a while…

Tonight we had decided to take the ferry to Saba Rock. While we were waiting on the dock some American guy asked me if my accent was for real – thought I was putting it on!   How rude / stupid is that? But we got our own back when they told us they came from Texas – Richard quickly replied with “Where’s that?!?” The look on their stunned faces was hilarious!   The little ferry turned up – and we climbed on board. We were expecting a little put put across the North Sound not a speed boat ride – boy that thing moves!   We then walked into Saba Rock and bumped into Lyle and Julia with their friends Bill and Helena.   Quick intros all round before they headed back to Orion and we sat down to enjoy a really nice dinner. Back on the ferry again and the annoying group were returning as well – this time we had to put up with really bad karaoke screaming / shouting of “Roxane”.   We were glad to get off the ferry onto the dock at Leverick to realise that the bar was shut – so we had a couple of pontoonies onboard.   Nice end to the evening and so to bed.

Monday morning and Carolyn and Ron came over for a late breakfast. It was miserable weather – really drizzly and grey.   After breakfast we went shopping into Pussers and a couple of other shops – Carolyn and Ron managed to buy some stuff and I got a bracelet too…..   We were going to then laze by the pool but rain stopped play again – so we just ended up sitting in the bar chatting.   At which point Carolyn and Ron went off to buy her a bracelet and came back with rum for Morphie and a pair of earrings for me.   Very kind….thank you……

Later on we reconvened for the pirates show by Michael Beans.   We had made the reservation on Friday but didn’t get a great table – nice position but hard benches to sit on, rather than individual chairs. So had a word with the organiser and we got moved – much more comfortable.   The Orion gang turned up – suitably attired in pirate fashion – and we had a great evening watching the show, singing along, blowing conch shells, waving the jolly roger, chatting, drinking etc etc etc.   Was really good fun.

Afterwards Orion left to eat at the fancy restaurant upstairs while we hung about so Carolyn could buy a pirate shirt!   Then we ate downstairs by the pool off the more casual menu. Had a nice meal and then a relatively early night….. Amazing how tired you can get doing not much LOL!

Tuesday morning and we were up early preparing Morphie to leave the confines of the marina and head back out to sea. Carolyn and Ron turned up on the golf buggy with their luggage so we pulled out around 9 ish – bound for Anegada.   Unfortunately the weather forecast was wrong in that although we had a lovely sunny morning with flat calm seas there was absolutely no wind at all…. Nada…. Nothing.   Shame – so we ended up having to motor. The upside was that it was much easier to prepare the bacon butties to eat underway for breakfast!

After a few miles we saw a few catamarans going around in circles – as we got closer we realised there was something in the water near them.   So we slowed down and watched from a distance – it was a whale!!!!   Only a baby having fun broaching, popping his head back up, doing the dive thing with his tail…   What a sight – beautiful.   Was annoyed though by how close the boats were to him and wondered about his mum.   Respectful distance from these beautiful creatures please! Rant over…   Because we were so far away with our view often blocked by the circling boats it was difficult to get a photo – but here is a hazy one just to prove it happened.

Wow what an experience……   Richard then decided to go fishing. Yawn….. here we go again….   Anyway, it can’t have been more than half an hour and the lure goes screaming away   Richard excitedly pulls it in – no thrashing, no fighting, nothing. Thought he’d caught weed and was disappointed until it got close to the boat and then a fish started flapping about.   Yay! Oh dear, another barracuda so nothing for tea, but hey – he caught a fish!!!!!   Hurrah!!!!!

Arriving into Anegada we were surprised with how all the boats were laying in the water – no wind so they were facing 180 degrees where they would normally sit.   So this means that we are going to anchor the ‘wrong’ way and will swing back later – oh yes and there is a squall out there on the horizon. So we got set and then Richard took Carolyn and Ron ashore to check into Neptunes – I stayed behind to keep an eye out. On his return we decided to feel our way in towards Neptunes – very shallow water there – to see if we can get anchored closer.   We went down to just under two feet under the keel on at one stage – but managed to find a spot directly opposite the hotel – with two and a half feet under us.   Much better position here especially for late night dink rides.

Once we were all set we took ourselves off to meet Carolyn and Ron – made our dinner reservations – and then headed off in a taxi to Cow Wreck beach bar.   Was stunned by the beauty of this place –photos really cannot do it justice….. We had a few drinks – enjoyed some bobbing – and was given a tour by Belle of her brand new kitchen.   Very nice!     We were then picked up by our taxi to return to Neptunes and went our separate ways until later.   Back on board we enjoyed a beautiful Anegada sunset.

Around 7pm we went ashore – met up in the outside bar – and then wandered to our table. Had a really good meal and some wine and a perfect end to a perfect day.

We hadn’t noticed that it was raining – although we were sitting outside, we were undercover – oh no, that means a very wet dink ride back. We did stand around for a little while to see if it would pass – no chance – so we had to man up and get wet!   As we got to Morphie I realised that I’d left all the beach towels on the rail too – so off course they are all soaked now….   So put extra pegs on them and decided to leave them there overnight.   Richard and I had a pontoonie in the cockpit to warm ourselves up – decidedly cool tonight in the rain – and then to bed.

This morning – Wednesday – and we are going ashore to meet them for breakfast… And the plan is to explore the island by car today. Richard and I have never actually done this – so should be fun!   Really looking forward to it….

Bye for now

Jan

PS – Pat and June – please give hugs to Jamie, Rufus and JJ from us all – and remember to reply to your e-mails!!!!!   For other readers to know – Jamie and Rufus are Carolyn and Ron’s two dogs…. JJ is theirs….

After blogging and provisioning we motored up the coast of Tortola towards Cane Garden Bay as the time was getting on.   After getting a good anchor set at the back of the mooring field and having cleaned ourselves up, we went ashore – definitely ready to celebrate my birthday!

Tying up to the dinghy dock we came across this picnic bench boat!   Was a bit nervous when I realised that they were all drunk and were struggling to get on board, let alone manoeuvring this strange contraption!   Looked like an accident waiting to happen!

Wandered down the beach – enjoyed Happy Hour at Myetts and caught up with Prince the bartender and watched the sun go down.   Always beautiful here…..

We then wandered down to the Elm – was welcomed royally with hugs etc – and had a tasty  BBQ dinner.  This was followed by the Elmtones doing a great set and some dancing. Great fun had by all and back to Morphie suitably chilled – was a great end to my birthday!

Monday and we are moving on again  – so picked up anchor.  The day started out beautiful but soon deteriorated to a windy and squally one…..and we were a bit fed up!   Richard decided to dance in the cockpit while under way to entertain me and I used the ‘ear’ of the bimini to keep out the worst of the rain LOL….

As we went through the Little Camanoe Cut – nice place for a retreat?!? – the weather picked up and we enjoyed the rest of the trip to Marina Cay.   We anchored again at the back of the mooring field and went ashore for happy hour and to pick up internet.   After a couple of beers we went back to Morphie for dinner onboard and an early night.

Tuesday morning – and it’s raining again!!!!  Waited for it to clear a bit then picked up anchor – checking out Scrub Island on the way past – and started our trip up to Virgin Gorda….

The weather deteriorated….   Rain squalls with sustained winds at 30 knots and much higher in the gusts….   And we got wet….then we dried….then we got wet….and it was a white out….and more rain came….actually, it was pretty horrible.

We were thankful as we rounded Virgin Gorda near Mosquito Island and was quite amazed by the progress of the building works – rumour has it that Sir Richard Branson is going to use this main house as his own, and use Necker purely for guests…. Looks pretty nice!

We passed through the reef and entered North Sound, to the back of the mooring field at Leverick, and got a nice set in about 15 feet of water…..   We went ashore – when the rain passed – just in time to do some laundry before retiring back to Morphie for an early night.

Wednesday morning and it was dull again – so another chores day…..   Came in for laundry again…. Then caught up on the internet…. After a few hours chilling on board we went ashore for the Pirate show by Michael Beans. We have seen this loads of times but always enjoy it – and had a nice chat with him during the interval.   While we were watching the show this English couple sat opposite us – and they were the people we had done the island tour with in Montserrat – what a small world!   Ended up a pretty late night!

Thursday and we had prepped the boat for another varnish day – but the forecast said rain and we couldn’t face having it ruined again….   So we lazed around and did a few jobs – and then wondered whether we should have just bitten the bullet and done it…..   But guess what – at 5pm, around the time we would have just finished varnishing, the heavens opened for about half an hour. Heavy enough to have ruined it again – glad we didn’t bother!  We didn’t even go ashore…..

Friday morning and we moved into the marina.

We have a special deal with the manager for this as we have friends coming in to stay in the resort for three nights…..   Plus free water and ice…. So took the opportunity to wash Morphie down, get some more shopping, fill up the water tanks, plug into shore power, and generally tidy up and get ready for tomorrow when our friends arrive.   She sure looks pretty on the dock doesn’t she???

Anyway….this afternoon….. I took myself off to the Spa for a massage and Richard carried on working.

Good job!   Finished….  We then went into the bar for Happy Hour….   We went back on board for dinner and planned to go back out to see the Jumbies – but decided to stay put in the end and have another early night.

We are really looking forward to seeing Carolyn and Ron again tomorrow.  They are not staying on board this year – they are going to be land based – with us being their personal water taxi, sailing them between islands. Should be fun!

Bye for now

Jan

Friday and the weather kicked in – we didn’t even go ashore!   It was pouring with rain….and then cloudy….and then raining….with very little sun. So we ran the generator to top up the batteries and made some water. The wind, actually, was not as bad as forecast but the conditions weren’t nice – and definitely no good for varnishing – so glad we stayed put and enjoyed a lazy day.

Saturday and the weather improved – looks like they got it wrong again…. Oh well, always better to be safe rather than sorry!   We did a few boat jobs and then went ashore later in the afternoon to catch up on the internet – during happy hour – and then over to the Willy T.   Nothing going on again – Richard was very amused by the tacky pirates ship lamp clock thingy that was on the bar – and we had a chat with a few people before having a very good chicken and chips supper, cooked by Branson. Back on board for an early night.

Sunday and it was lovely and we decided to spend some time on the beach….. It was nice for a while, but it was pretty busy, there was a lack of chairs, and lots of kids screaming….   So we retreated back to Morphie and sat on the transom drinking cold beer from the fridge.   Lovely way to end the day as the sun went down.

Monday morning and we were up early. We are headed over to the USVI today – our plan is to go into American Yacht Harbor to get our replacement temperature gauge fitted.   And of course the weather turned as we picked up anchor!  So we left Norman straight into bad weather and 30+ knot winds…. There was certainly a different view today of the Indians in the gloom. It is a downwind run from Norman to Tortola, so we actually had a fantastic sail under a reefed genoa alone. We did get wet a few times though as rain storms passed through.

Arrived in West End and the first thing we see is this huge black yacht – all black, no name, no AIS, nothing!   We thought it looked decidedly evil….   And check out the size of the guy standing on the transom… That’s what you call a big boy’s toy LOL!!!

As we entered the mooring field there wasn’t a mooring ball to be found. People were stooging around waiting for balls even for customs – so we decided to turn around and perhaps go to check out from the BVI in Jost instead.   As we were leaving we were checking out the depths just between the Fish and Lime Restaurant and Steele Point – and found a sandy spot in 25 feet…. So decided to anchor…   We got a great set straight away and sat there for a little while to check how the wind would move us around. Happy that Morphie was safe we left her and went into the Customs and Immigration Office and checked out. Very quick and pleasant experience – makes a change!   Even the weather had started to improve….

Then over to D’ Best Cup coffee shop and we’d received an e-mail to say that the spare gauge had not arrived….. So we quickly cancelled our slip at AYH – rescheduling for early February – as we didn’t want to go into the marina for nothing… and debated our next move. Well – we have to leave the BVIs now as we’ve already checked out – so decided to go shopping at the Marina store for some bits and bobs and were very happy to find Branston pickle, French cheese, French baguette and English pork sausages. Sadly they had run out of English cheddar cheese… So got our fill of those LOL!

Back to Morphie, picked up anchor, and sailed downwind to St John.   Had another exhilarating sail in washing-machine like seas – but we enjoyed ourselves a lot!   And we almost got 8 knots out of Morphie on reefed genoa alone….   Great fun.

We picked up a mooring in Caneel Bay and dinked round into Cruz Bay marvelling at the colour of the water – cleared customs into the US Virgin Islands – and then picked up our parcels. Two out of three only had arrived so we’ll have to come back again another day.   Got some drinking vouchers out of the bank and then headed back to Morphie where we had a quiet time on board and an early night enjoying the view.

Tuesday morning and back into Cruz Bay – some more drinking vouchers obtained – and we had breakfast while we were out.

Then we found the local supermarket and did some more shopping. We managed to get some steak and some great fresh produce….. so salad for the next few days!   Yay!!   Back on board, provisions stowed, and then we dropped the mooring ball and motored upwind to Mahoe Bay – being passed by the huge yacht Erica VII.

We arrived into Mahoe – this is a beautiful bay with a white sand beach edged with palm trees, backed by lush hills, and spectacular clear blue water. We picked up a mooring ball – compulsory here as it is a marine park – and started taping up Morphie, getting the ropes all stowed out of the way, removing some stainless steel etc – all in preparation for her first rub down tomorrow.  No distractions here other the natural beauty of it all – no bars, no restaurants, no internet, no nothing! Just turtles popping their nosy little heads up checking who is around….and the fins of tarpon chasing little fry around the bay.   This is one of our favourite places and we enjoyed sitting in the cockpit having a quiet night on board.

Wednesday morning and we started the mammoth job of rubbing down by hand…..   The teak needs some tender loving care with the varnish peeling and rubbed off in loads of places.   We pretty much finished the first rub down and collapsed in the cockpit – albeit with aching muscles – just had dinner and then straight to bed…..     Here are some ‘before’ pictures.

Thursday we got up very early and washed down all the dust and sanded a few more bits that we’d missed yesterday.   We then started to apply our first coat of varnish and were really pleased with ourselves – such a shame we have to rub it all off again tomorrow in preparation for the next coat!!!   While we were in the middle of all this – and I did get distracted a couple of times by a sting ray who kept swimming underneath Morphie – we saw a familiar boat in the distance.   It was Orion! They had just left the BVIs now that their friends had gone home – and wondered whether we would be here….   So when we finished our varnishing we all went bobbing for a couple of hours while Morphie looked all shiny and enjoyed her surroundings….

Friday morning – up early – and started rubbing down again…..   This took us until about 3pm – then we started applying the next coat.   During this time Julia came by on the kayak to invite us over for sundowners…  We said we couldn’t guarantee what time we would get there – but that was fine by them.   So when we finished we cleaned ourselves up, left Morphie to dry and headed over.

They had invited Kirk and Chrissie over too – and we realised that we had met them two years ago – what a small world. Well sundowners turned into a late night – fun times!

Saturday morning – up even earlier. We actually started rubbing down at 7.30 am! This is the final coat we want to apply so needs to be a good one.

We worked really hard and at 5.00 pm we had finished.   It looked fantastic – wood under glass – amazing!   High fives all round.   Quite relieved – that was physical hard work.  Although it was really our turn we couldn’t host sundowners as we have wet varnish everywhere – so back over to Orion again for a nice time catching up with Lyle and Julia.  They also opened a bottle of bubbly to celebrate my birthday early as we are going our separate ways again for a little while.   Well – during the evening it rained.   We had fingers crossed that the varnish was dry enough by the time it came down – oh well, what can you do? And so to bed and it rained again – hard.

Sunday morning – up early – Happy Birthday to me!!!   Opened my cards – thanks everyone.

And then we inspected the wood.   We thought we might have got away with it as there was water sitting on top of the rail…… But it looked milky….. So we dried it – and disaster – it’s ruined!!!  All that hard work – we’ve got to rub it down and redo it.  If only the rain could have held off another few hours…… Not the best start to our day.

So what to do?   We decided not to stay here in Mahoe Bay – we need to get reconnected and I needed to blog!!!   Oh yes, and I’d like not to have to cook on my birthday LOL.   So I tidied up, completed the customs / immigration paperwork and drafted this.   Richard worked hard on deck reinstalling all the lines and the stainless etc in preparation for us departing.   We then motored across – straight into wind and waves – to West End, Tortola.

Managed to pick up a mooring ball – and then went into customs.   Got some major bull from the customs guy – wants $200 for temporary importation duty for Morpheus as we are going to be in the BVIs for more than 30 days in a calendar year.   Hang on – we came in on 20 December, left on 5 January, and are returning today.  Surely it has to be 30 days consecutive???   After some discussion we persuaded him not to charge us – and we have until 2 February to get out or pay.  No worries mate – we’ll be gone for sure.    We have been coming here for years and this stuff happens all the time – but this is a new one on us.   On 20 December we paid $15 to clear in – total.  Today it cost us $55.  OK it’s a Sunday so there is overtime…. but really????   They just make it up as it goes along.    This really hasn’t been the best start to my birthday for sure……  Grrrrrrr

We are in D’ Best Cup now – catching up on news from home and was lovely to receive loads of birthday messages and to speak to my mum.  Thanks everyone for remembering.  Feeling more chilled now….   As the song goes, things can only get better……..

Later on we are going to Cane Garden Bay where we know there will be live music at The Elm tonight. We are both really looking forward to seeing the Elmtones again and maybe a bit of dancing??? The varnishing can definitely wait a few days. We are working our way up to Virgin Gorda as we have our friends Carolyn and Ron coming in for a holiday at the end of the week. So once we’ve arrived up there we can spend the time before their arrival varnishing – again…… Sigh…..

Bye for now

Jan

Saturday night we did go ashore for a couple of drinks….. and chatted with Brian who moved to Jost about four months ago from Alaska – luckily he is renting as it appears that he is struggling to cope with the challenges island life brings….    Will be interesting to find out whether he sticks it out or not!   We left relatively early and were tucked up in bed about 10 pm.

Sunday and we got up early and scrubbed the boat down inside and out….   It takes much longer than you would expect in such a small space – can’t believe how much dust accumulates and, of course, unlike at home you have to wash walls, ceilings, and doors constantly…  Well I do wash them at home, of course, but that’s not every time!    Done at last – Morphie looks and smells lovely…. Phew!

We then went ashore quickly so that I could phone mum to make sure she got back from her Christmas break OK.   Was lovely to speak to her for a little while…    Then back on board to get organised as this afternoon we have Vinny and Lori coming over for some nibbles and drinks.   Richard picked them up and we had a lovely time together.

As the light started to fade the big boats started coming in – first it was the Stad Amsterdam tall ship and we enjoyed the sight of the crew folding away the sails….  Not sure I’d fancy that job!!!   Then this absolutely beautiful British boat comes in – called Elena of London.   Wow!    Followed by a great sunset….

We went ashore for a couple of beers and Elena’s captain and his first mate were in…  So we chatted with them for a while – to find out that the boat costs €85k per week to rent, and that excludes food, drink, customs, immigration, dockage fees, fuel, crew gratuities etc….  Dream on…..!!!!   Anyway, we said our farewells to the Corsairs crew and headed back to Morphie and so to bed.

Monday morning and we were up pretty early and headed out to sea….   The wind was a bit fickle and was coming from the south east – which is pretty unusual – and we pulled out the sails and enjoyed a decent sail across the channel towards the West End of Tortola.    Then the wind died so we doused the sails and motored….

As we were coming into the channel Elena was coming up behind us – so we gave her a bit more room – and she passed us to starboard.   Beautiful boat…. And the crew waved to us when the guests weren’t looking LOL although didn’t manage to capture that!  Look at this impressive sight…..

Having come through the passage we were hoping for a good sail across to Norman Island – but again the wind wasn’t playing ball with us…  So we carried on motoring – enjoying the sights of the Indians as we passed them and the large amounts of Sargasso weed floating – until we came into Norman.

There aren’t that many anchoring spots in the Bight as it is a bit deep with much of it at 50+ feet – and we couldn’t find a spot straight away.    The only available place was on a lee shore and we didn’t fancy that….   So initially we picked up a mooring ball and enjoyed looking at the renovated Pirates Beach Bar and Restaurant.

Then we spotted that the boat that was anchored in our preferred spot was picking up – so we dropped the mooring ball – and stooged around until he had left.  Then we dropped our anchor in a small spot of sand amongst a largely rocky area in 25 feet of water.  Richard snorkelled it to make sure we were set and we were pleased as punch that we’d found the spot and the anchor was buried in the sand….   Yay!!!

Mooring balls here in the BVI cost $30 a night so we prefer to try and avoid using them if possible…..  So far so good!   We went into Pirates for a short time to catch up on the internet and then back on board for a quiet night watching the mooring ball fun….   It is really busy here now – the high season has definitely kicked in – and we were amazed that by around 3pm all the mooring balls were gone!    On the way into Pirates I got toy envy as a few of the charter boats had large inflatable water toys on them – dinosaurs, cows, ducks, swans – all sorts!    Really funny….

There were a lot of big boys anchored behind us here and then there is the sad sight of the charter boats coming in late desperately looking for a ball – and the looks of horror and desperation on the faces of the crew as they realise they have to anchor.  We did actually feel sorry for one Sunsail guy who tried about six times to anchor and failed – we would have gone and helped him but we had already raised dink onto his davits for the night.  But another captain had obviously spotted him and gave assistance…..   Thankfully he got set before it got dark – bet there were a few heated words on board that boat!

Tuesday morning and it was wash day….  Not sure Morphie appreciates looking like a laundry as we hang it all out to dry – and we certainly got some strange looks from other boats around us!   Never mind – all done – and dried in the sun.

Later on in the afternoon we went ashore for a bobbing session at Pirates and then over to the Willy T (the William Thornton floating bar and restaurant).    Was great to catch up with Branson again but it was all rather quiet and sedate – although we did meet one family doing ski shots and another cruising family had their dog with them who decided to sleep on the bar.   How cute is that???

Wednesday morning – New Year’s Eve – and we got up late.  We had decided to have a late brunch / breakfast to set ourselves up for the day and, at this point, Lyle, Julia and their friends Kerry and Ken came over to say hi, as they had arrived into the Bight the night before….    So we made arrangements to meet up for bobbing later and they left to go on a mammoth snorkel adventure.    Around lunchtime we went ashore to Pirates to FaceTime with Rachel, Kiera and Finley – unfortunately it was a bit loud in the bar and outside it was difficult to see the screen because of the sun’s glare.   But we managed to say hi and make them jealous with the blue skies and sandy beach and to have a chat with the kids.   Ah bless…..

We then bobbed until we were joined by Lyle, Julia, Kerry and Ken – and we all bobbed together with Lyle deciding to still wear his Christmas hat – quaffing champagne would you believe it, that Lyle and Julia and bought with them.   Very fancy!

After a merry few hours we went back to Morphie to get cleaned up and enjoyed a beautiful sunset….

We then headed back into Pirates for our New Year’s Eve dinner…   When we got there I managed – stupidly – to drop the dinghy kill switch into the water and, guess what, the automatic float thingy on it didn’t work!   And luckily I had a spare key to the padlock on me….   Never mind, it is possible to use without, but I wasn’t flavour of the month with Richard at that point….

When we finally got into the restaurant we were surprised to see MJ Blues playing – he is fantastic and one of our favourite local musicians – and we haven’t heard him play for quite a few years now.  So great to catch up with him again…..

Dinner was lovely and I was dancing when I got asked by the waitress to return to my table so that I could pay our part of the bill – apparently there was another sitting after us.  Didn’t realise – so we quickly evacuated and moved to the dance area and waited for our change.   And waited…. And then chased…. And then she was confused….. And then she tried to give us the wrong change….. And then had to redo the bills….. And finally we got our change.   They were under a lot of pressure though and I think they could have done with a few more staff…..   Never mind…   We carried on dancing and drinking for a little while – and then decided to move on to the Willy T.

So we piled into our respective dinghies – carefully motored across the mooring field – and climbed on board the Willy T.  Again, not a lot going on, but we made the most of it as you can tell by the pictures!

Then we counted down to midnight – Happy New Year! – and kisses and hugs all round.   We enjoyed our evening and then returned to Morphie and to bed.

This morning – Thursday – and Richard went out early to snorkel under the dinghy dock and managed to retrieve our kill switch!   Good job….. thank you!   We’ve now picked up anchor and moved closer to Pirates.  We were planning to leave tomorrow to go across to St John to pick up our parcels and tuck into Mahoe Bay to re-varnish the bright work (the outside teak for our non-sailing friends).   But the forecast is decidedly dodgy – with strong winds and gusts forecast – and that will reduce our ability to varnish as we need to do under the rail from the dinghy and this requires a settled sea state and low winds…    So we will probably sit it out here but will wait and see what tomorrow brings.

Bye for now.

Jan

Sunday afternoon we dinked around the point to White Bay to visit the Soggy Dollar and were surprised how quiet it was.   Pulled dink up the beach – so he could show off his new painted numbers and his clean bottom – and left him alone to enjoy the space!!!   We wandered into the bar and got a great welcome from Mic who gave us beers before we even opened our mouths LOL.   Was pretty hot so we – surprise, surprise went bobbing …

After a while we headed down the beach to One Love. Seddy was missing although Teddy the dog was around and we bumped into Christian and Karen – the honeymoon couple from Florida – that we’d met the previous night in Corsairs. They were drinking bushwackers and were quite jolly!   They hadn’t been to Soggy yet – having started at the other end of the beach – so we escorted them down so they could try a famous painkiller and they then joined us in a bobbing session.  Getting out of the sun and it was time to pay our tab – returning to the bar we had a lovely ‘welcome home’ from Simone, Winsome and Shaneek who had just come on shift….   Time to go and we gave the couple a lift back to their boat as they had swam ashore – but did think that they should have been picked up really as they were the only guests on a crewed catamaran charter!

We headed back around the point – enjoying the view of Morphie in the anchorage – and were back on board for dinner and to get cleaned up – and then into Corsairs.

Vinny greeted us by telling us that our American friends were already there!   We had recommended the food and told them we would be going there later, but we really didn’t think they would make it back…. They were pretty sozzled when we had left them in White Bay – but somehow they had managed to persuade the captain to move the boat to Great Harbour.   We had a lovely time ending up in the boys doing shots…. Oh well….. Then they left to go back and we found out that they had a dinghy on the dock – we couldn’t believe that a paid skipper just gave his non-boating guest who was already a little worse for wear a dinghy to come ashore in.   Really not good enough!!   Richard helped them on the dock and thankfully they made it back without incident.

After a pretty hectic Sunday we decided not to go ashore Monday – so got up later than usual.   We sorted out the water maker, serviced some more winches, did some laundry and polished some wood down below.   About three o’clock we were taking a break in the cockpit and saw Orion coming into the anchorage….   Hurrah!   They got their anchor set behind us and went in to clear into customs and immigration. They came back legal and we all got together for a reunion on-board Orion. Such fun to see Lyle and Julia again….

Tuesday morning and we were up early and into Corsairs for internet again – the only semi-reliable service it would appear at the moment.

Back on board mid-morning and we waited for Lyle and Julia to pick us up as we were going to dink around to the Soggy Dollar.   Had a lovely bobbing afternoon followed by a roti at Gertrudes and back round the point … to found that we were surrounded by large boats anchored.  After a fun afternoon in the sun we had a quiet evening on board.

Wednesday morning – Christmas Eve – and back out to get internet again – still trying to sort out spare parts to be shipped into St John and to secure a slip in American Yacht Harbour to allow Kevin the mechanic to come on board to fix stuff….   Finally all sorted out – phew – and while I was on line Richard fixed the D-ring at the front of dink which had been leaking.   Back on board and more wood cleaning / polishing again and got the generator running to charge things up and make water.   Unfortunately our water maker decided to spring a small leak so we investigated with Richard’s new wifi endoscope. Great tool – spotted the source – just a shame we can’t reach it easily!   Nothing to worry about though just a loose fitting – we’ll sort that out soon…..

Later on we went into Corsairs for dinner with Lyle and Julia. Perfect day and the anchorage started filling up quite early – and we ended up surrounded by big boys again!

We had a lovely dinner and a few drinks and laughs – we caught up with Vinny and Lori too – and then headed down to Foxys where there was karaoke going on.   Pretty busy night but the singing was dire – maybe that’s why the rest of the people there looked so miserable!!!!!  Richard asked the DJ to play one of his favourite songs from down island and then we had to dance of course. We had a good time….

And so to bed – late!

Thursday morning – Merry Christmas!

We had already planned a full-on party day today starting with a trip to the Soggy Dollar scheduled for early afternoon.    So we got up – had breakfast – had a swim and chilled in the cockpit, having opened our Christmas cards.   Thanks everyone – we miss you all….!!!!

Lyle and Julia gifted us their sea anchor as they no longer have any need for it.   We had this on our list for future purchases so were very grateful for this generous gift.   For our non-sailing friends you only use this in serious storm conditions…. So something that you should have and hope never to need to deploy!

We went over to Orion to pick them up and dinked round to Soggy.   Was a perfect day on the beach – everyone was in a great mood – and we looked the part in our Santa hats.   So bobbing in the beautiful blue water was the order of the day. There was a small stingray moving around which made a few of the other people get out quickly – and some little fish that kept nibbling our toes!!!   Funny….

During the afternoon we also enjoyed the wandering Christmas minstrels who came in and entertained us with some carols for a while before they moved on…..   Great service from Mic and Shaneek as always!

We dinked back around to Great Harbour before the sun went down and we got absolutely soaked – the waves were building and breaking over the front of dink – and I took the brunt of them, much to the delight of the rest of the gang!!!!   Oh yes, and to keep morale high, we sang Christmas carols en route…. LOL

After getting cleaned up we headed back into Corsairs for their special lamb dinner. Was lovely and we had a great evening.   Lyle and Julia bailed on us a bit earlier as they were leaving the anchorage in the morning but we stayed on – moved down to Foxys in Vinny’s army truck – and partied with the Corsairs gang which, of course, involved more dancing…..  Oh yes, and spot the Duffys hat worn by Pizza Dave….   We donated them to the local kids and they left behind one in Corsairs – so Dave nabbed it!

Another late night….

Friday – Boxing Day – and we had a lazy recuperative one.   We stayed in bed, we lazed in the cockpit, we dozed and we read books….. We even ate some chocolate to make it feel more Christmassy!!!   Orion had left us by the time we surfaced – but we have made plans to get together for New Year’s Eve so didn’t feel sad at the loss of our Canadian play mates.  We didn’t attempt to go ashore just enjoyed watching the boats moving around and the usual mad dash for mooring balls at the end of the day.   This is a great anchorage with the sounds of the goats in the hills; the views across to Tortola; and now that the big boats have left we are out here on our own enjoying the lapping of the waves on the hull and the wind whistling through the rigging……

A quiet day, followed by a quiet night, and so to bed.

Saturday – up early and Richard has installed our transom shower hose and tap covers while I wrote this….   We then came ashore for breakfast and to blog….. planning a quiet afternoon on board and perhaps some after dinner drinks at Corsairs.   It was a quiet morning in Great Harbour and the anchorage…. and we just ran into Shaneek with her new baby boy Kaleb…. Lovely cuddles!!!

Bye for now

Jan

Wednesday morning I did all the laundry while Richard and Blaine got on with some maintenance jobs.   They took apart a couple of winches that had been temperamental on the passage and also did some trouble shooting to see what was going on with our engine temperature sensor.   They couldn’t work out whether it was the gauge or the actual sensor itself playing up – so we need more expert advice on this one.   Richard and I then went off to visit the new supermarket across the road and were delighted to find it full of good quality meat and veg….   Yay!   So we stocked up on meat to take advantage of shore power to get it all frozen down before we head out.

I also spoke to Garmin – again – yawn!!!!   They have been driving me nuts… We chose not to order the new chart plotter chip that we need for this season in the UK because it was £160 rather than $160 on the US site. So knowing we were coming this way and being able to access the US Postal Service to St John we were confident in our ability to get it.   So the first hurdle – can’t order to the US Virgin Islands on line – have to call their support team. No problem – sorted – order done. Than a follow-up e-mail to say there are problems with the credit card. No worries – another phone call – sorted. They had switched the billing address with the delivery address, no wonder it didn’t work!   Then I get another email to say something wrong – please call again. Turns out – after four frustrating (Skype) phone calls and about two hours – they will not guarantee delivery to a PO Box address in St John – even though it is a US territory.   So they will take the cash but we’ll have no recourse if it doesn’t turn up.   Grrrrr….. why is this so difficult?   They supply marine charts but can’t support cruisers who do not have a local physical address???   So I tell them where to shove it and will leave it to another day….

Later on Richard and I met with Bill, Judy, and their sons Bill and Jonathan – who are the proud owners of Charbonneau, which is Blaine’s old Island Packet.   What a small world!   They are planning to go down island and wanted some hints and tips. We had a delightful couple of hours with them in Mollys before heading off out to eat and then to Duffys for ladies night.   Blaine was already there dancing around and it was rammed – ladies night means free alcoholic drinks for any girls – so gets pretty popular! And Richard particularly enjoyed the “cockodile” shot…. which was a surprise gift from the barman.

After Duffys we returned to the Tap and Still for a nightcap and Richard and I got roped into shots with big Kevin and his friends who were celebrating a birthday and Christmas all rolled into one….   Fun times and, of course, ended up getting to bed much later than planned!!!

Thursday morning and Kevin, the mechanic, came over to look at the temperature sensor – looks like a new part required – and I cleaned down the stainless and wood.   I also filled up the water tanks. Richard tightened up the genoa halyard which had stretched a bit and cleaned up down below as we started to get ourselves sorted out post passage.   We then headed over to the ATM – bit nervous – and YAY our US bank account debit card works!   At last, we can relieve it of some cash!

We met Dave and Susan – Blaine’s friends – at Mollys for happy hour and then headed over to Lattitudes for some live music.   Great sounding band – mid West American music, not really our genre – but enjoyed it anyway – especially as we had chicken rotis for dinner. Yum.   Interesting bunch of people at this bar – drunk and / or just plain scary!  …

The audience loved to dance though, including the guy who danced on and broke one of the tables.   As the band closed their set for the night we headed back to the marina and, guess what, ended up in Duffys again….   This is Blaine’s final night here in St Thomas with us – so we partied, but not too hard this time as he had an early flight.

Friday morning and Blaine was up with the lark and left for the airport.   We then spent time getting the boat straight and re-utilising the space he’d vacated.   We were excited that our friends Lyle and Julia were coming in on their boat Orion, but were sad that the marina couldn’t accommodate us for an extra couple of days to stay here with them.   But they are heading to the BVIs for Christmas and New Year so we are looking forward to a proper reunion with them very soon!   We rushed around doing some final fresh produce provisioning and stowing it all away when Dave turned up. The previous night he mentioned that he had all the physical marine charts and pilot guides that we would need this season – and we had ones that he would need to travel further south in due course.   So we did a swap – excellent!    I also had success in sourcing the Garmin chart plotter chip from another company who were happy to ship to a Post Office box on St John. Hurrah – things are finally going our way!

We left the slip at American Yacht Harbor just before the 1pm deadline to depart – and motored straight across a very flat Pilsbury Sound. The water and views across the islands is always spectacular but we really appreciated it having been in boatyards and marinas so far. We rushed into customs and immigration – as we planned to check out for Saturday – but were told that we no longer need to do this. That’s very good news – thanks!   Shame I had already completed the forms though LOL…

We parked dink by the ferry terminal and went to Connections to collect the two parcels that were waiting for us – and then onto Woodys for a late lunch. Well, it was supposed to be a snack, but it was huge US portions, and I struggled to finish even though I’d only ordered an appetizer / starter!   Richard peeked in his parcels and after a couple of drinks we left – back to Morphie. We dropped the mooring ball and motored down the coast of St John towards Mahoe Bay. Opened the parcels – only spare fuel / air filters and threaded impellers – nothing fancy, but Richard was excited anyway. There will be more parcels to collect next time we go across…   We had a very quiet evening on board and retired down below for an early night having enjoyed a spectacular sunset.   We needed a break after the madness of the last few days!

Saturday morning and it was lovely to be back in cruiser mode, enjoying tea in the cockpit admiring the anchorage.

We left the USVIs and sailed straight across to Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke.  Was a wonderful reach in 18-20 knots of breeze.  Just perfect….  We cleared into the BVIs and then headed to Foxys for internet connection.   Which, of course, wasn’t working… Really frustrated – need to talk to my mum and we have other stuff to order – and, of course, I wanted to post this!   Never mind- we headed down to Corsairs to catch up with the gang and see if their internet was working….   No, of course not, this is the islands!   We had a couple of beers and waved to Vinnie and Lori as they left for a Willy T afternoon on his new boat – they did invite us, but we declined this time LOL!

We had a quiet afternoon on board enjoying the beauty of Great Harbour and ended up being surrounded by super yachts as the sun went down…..

Later on we headed into Corsairs for the evening to catch up with the gang and meet the rest of the new staff. Fun time was had by all – Vinny was on great form – and so back to Morphie to sleep.

Woke up this morning – Sunday – early and we’ve come into Corsairs to get internet with lots of fingers crossed as I need to phone my mum before she goes away for Christmas. Thankfully it worked!   Yay!   Was a bit tearful after speaking to her but glad we managed it….   Just had a late breakfast and we’re catching up with internet stuff – and planning a soggy dollar afternoon.

In the meantime, we’d like to wish all our family and friends a wonderful Christmas.

Bye for now

Jan

We got up really early on Thursday morning and slipped quietly from our dock as the sun was rising and motored away down the river, admiring our final view of the big bridge as we passed under it.

We reached the pontoon bridge and radioed the operator – to be told they had just opened – so we had to wait. We stooged around for almost half an hour until finally it opened – the pilot boat came through first followed by the Venezuelan fishermen….

We slipped through the gap that was left into the swirling currents and then turned to port to run – under motor – along the rocky coast of Curacao.

We left early as the wind often doesn’t get up until later in the morning – and this held for us thankfully – so the dreaded part of the journey was slow but not too uncomfortable as we motored into the wind and strong currents….   We then headed towards Klein Curacao to ensure we could pass around the point of Curacao without getting caught out by the really nasty lee shore and strong fetch that comes from miles.   During this time motoring down the coast, Blaine was down below catching some sleep as Richard and he were going into their shift pattern straight away – I was a spare pair of hands to do some daytime shifts to help them out and to supply the food, of course!

We passed the end of Curacao safely and put in our rhumb line to Charlotte Amalie, US Virgin Islands.   We knew that, if possible, we should aim to stay east of this line but because of prevailing winds and currents we knew realistically that it would not be possible.

We sailed as close to the rhumb line as we could and it was pretty lumpy out there but we had lovely clear skies and much better conditions than we had been expecting. The wind only got up to 25 knots and most of the time was running at 15 to 20 – although we were getting pushed west by the current with no hazards apart from the tankers that move around this area in huge numbers. Luckily we had no near misses this time!

The first sunset came and it was time for me to retire and Richard and Blaine to move to three hourly shift patterns.   We were bouncing around a bit but not too uncomfortable…. And we had a pretty uneventful night…..

Friday morning and the sight of the sun coming up at sea – perfect – and the wind continued to ease now settling around 15 knots.   The boys continued their shift pattern and I did a few hours here and there while they took cat naps….   It was almost a perfect day apart from the increasing distance that was appearing between our rhumb line and actual direction of travel – almost 35 miles west now. That’s a long way to claw back. Oh well……

During the day we were visited by a small school of spinner dolphins playing around in the sizeable waves until they almost bumped into Morphie’s bow – and then turned at the last minute to avoid getting hit.   Really funny – you could almost imagine them chuckling each time.   Unfortunately they didn’t show themselves much above the surface so I wasn’t able to capture their fun photographically.   A great day on passage – and the sun set for another night at sea.

Saturday morning and the wind changed….   It stayed about 13-15 knots but the direction went south east which was absolutely perfect for us and pretty unusual for this area.   Yay!!!!  So we made some easting while we could and headed towards our rhumb line – we were about 10 miles away from our rhumb line when the genoa just wouldn’t set, whatever we did or how far we fell off the wind.   So we rolled it away in frustration and went under main and staysail only while we had some lunch.   With the wind change now confirmed and holding we had a sailable direction to St Thomas if it changed again.   Wow – wasn’t expecting that at all…..   An amazing perfect day at sea followed by another beautiful sunset.

Sunday morning and another sunrise – and the wind started to ease a lot.   We now had about 10 knots but still with a south element so we continued on our course.   Then the wind almost disappeared and started to fluke around and we wondered what weather was following.   During the day Richard had some excitement – he caught a fish!!!   A pretty small one and we put him back – but a better start to the season…  Let’s hope it continues LOL…

Sunday afternoon Richard spotted some nasty stuff but it passed by us without any effects. During the night, however, he came down for me to check the radar – and there were squalls all around us. The wind picked up – and moved east – but fine, we can sail that!  

Monday morning and we are getting close – and then the storms came. The wind went north east, but because of our easting earlier, we were still able to sail direct to St Thomas. Then the storms got nasty and we even spotted a water spout out there….   The heavens opened and there was a white out. And that set the scene…   Rain, rain and more rain…..

But we’re still making way…. And eventually we get close enough to see St Thomas in the gloom and we encounter our first cruise ship of the trip at the same time as the skies cleared……

But then there was more rain – more gloom – but eventually we set our hook in the waters of Charlotte Amalie at around 2.30 pm.   It had taken us 4 ½ days and we covered 516 miles in total.  Woo hoo!!!!   Great passage…..

Cleaned up quickly – into the ferry dock – and we cleared into the US Virgin Islands.   We then ended up in the Fat Turtle for our first alcoholic drinks for a while and something to eat.   Back on board pretty tired but happy and we settled into a good night’s sleep – again, back in our beds rather than in sea cots!

Tuesday morning – and we went ashore to get internet at the coffee shop.   Had some breakfast and Richard posed for a special photo for Dan and Ruth, showing off his Wisconsin souvenir tee-shirt!

We returned to Morphie admiring all the mega yachts in the marina, and had to run through the channel next to the cruise ships. Disney was in so we spotted Dumbo flying off his stern and Mickey was painted on his bow.   Pretty ship!   And of course the boys were being silly in the dinghy!

Back on board, got ourselves ready, and then – in the torrential rain – picked up anchor and motored along the coast of St Thomas to return to Red Hook.   This was our home port when Morphie was in charter so interesting that the guy on the fuel dock remembered us and welcomed us back!!!!   Well – rain stopped work although cleaned all the salt off Morphie – so we sat in Molly Malones enjoying a few Coronas and tried to catch up, but the internet failed….   Grrrr….. feeling the need to get connected LOL.

Then we met one of Blaine’s friend Dave – and had a burger dinner with him – and then headed to Duffys for a party night.   It was pretty quiet although it was Tequila Tuesday – but we really had a lot of fun as I think the photos show! Great night out.

This morning and its back to work – I’ve just loaded up the washing machines in the laundromat and am now sitting in Mollys drinking coffee hoping for internet to get this published.   Yay – it’s working!   Richard is back on board doing post-passage maintenance jobs….

Bye for now

Jan

Sunday we finally finished the boat jobs…… and had a takeout for tea!   We were too exhausted to cook and the marina dogs certainly enjoyed the left overs…. Followed by an early night on board.

Monday and we were up early….   I cleaned down below and Richard did a final engine check and other useful stuff.   Come lunchtime we were done – showered up – and headed off to the airport to pick up Blaine.   His flight came in at 2.55 pm so we had some lunch while we waited.   It was really hot and humid and we stood at the arrivals rail – we knew the flight had landed and people were trickling through… but still no sign of Blaine. Finally after a very hot hour he came through frustrated by the length of the customs queue.

Back to the boat with Richard showing off his Formula 1 driving skills in our rent a wreck – avoiding pot holes and giving Blaine a bit of a scare! After a quick visit to Morphie we went out to Pietermaai to take him to our favourite restaurant and show him around a little. Visited Mundo Bizzaro first – and we had a couple beers – followed by a fantastic meal at Ginger with lots of chatting and catching up going on.  Back on board completely full up and a pretty early night!

Tuesday and we took the day off! Hurrah!   So headed over to Jan Thiel beach and had a great time playing in the water, bobbing, and generally just chilling.   It was really hot and we couldn’t get enough shade – so we ended up in the bar.   And honestly we were rehydrating with soft drinks – there was no rum involved at all!   Blaine and Richard enjoyed posing by our old car as we left.

We had a great time chilling and once we’d got ourselves cleaned up we headed over to Pirates Rest where Happy Arghhhhh had just started.   We had a nice BBQ supper – followed by the bill served in a pirates chest! – and then ended up back on board for pontoonies and so to bed.

This morning – Wednesday – and we headed into Willemstad. Primary purpose was to visit customs and immigration to check out as we are leaving tomorrow morning.   But while we were there we enjoyed the sights of the pontoon bridge opening to let a yacht come in; the Venezuelan fruit and veg market; the cruise ships towering over the city and the spectacular renovated buildings in Otrabanda. Richard found a nice new car to lust after – and some huge new fenders!

We topped off the city day out by mucking around with some tourist things and having a leisurely lunch…. Whilst people watching all the cruise ship passengers….

Eventually back to the marina – returned the hire car – and paid our marina bills….   All done – so now having a quiet night on board in preparation for our trip tomorrow. We plan to set sail early morning and will first have to navigate our way out to the sea and will be greeted by wind and current straight on the nose. So expecting a lumpy old time out there for a while – and in fact all of the 450+ miles will be beating into the wind and current….   Will take us approximately five days for this trip and, as we have Blaine the gadget man on board, you can actually follow our progress via his Facebook page – CapnBlaine (which is publicly available) – as he’ll be putting Spot Satellite updates there morning and evening…..

See you soon from the US Virgin Islands!   Bye for now

Jan

Thursday morning and we were up early…. Today is the day we go back in the water – thankfully. After another mosquito-infested sauna night aboard we will be happy to get some breeze through the boat!

It was around 7.50 am and I’d just made a pot of tea and put on some eggs to boil – and the guys turned up with the monster trailer to take Morphie away!   So we quickly stowed everything in the sink and we are being told to get off!   Yes, OK mate….. but let us check that all is as it should be first!   We quickly climbed down the ladder with just a camera and watched the proceedings.   I was a bit fed up when I saw marks along the hull when the chocks were removed – but, on closer inspection, it was just paper stuck to the new paint, not damage. Phew…..

So heart in mouth we watched Morphie’s progress through the boatyard and finally into the water…..   Checked the stuffing gland for drips – all fine – and other through hulls….   We found that the knot meter wasn’t seated properly and was letting by a little… so tightened that up and we started the engine. No hesitation – first turn off the key. Well done Morphie!

Ready to push off and, of course, nobody around to assist…..   So Richard spoke to this Canadian couple who were splashing later on and we asked them for assistance promising we’ll do the same for them later in the day. Deal struck and we’re on our way and then into our slip – unfortunately the marina is full (it is tiny!) – so we ended up stern into the wind.   Oh well – never mind – we were safely in the water and tied to a dock.   Glad that was over!

The rest of Thursday and we carried on working hard….   We got dink off the coach roof, pumped up, and into the water….   Richard did final engine jobs and I carried on stainless cleaning – now that I could reach the outer rail…..   Thursday night we retired very early having had a long day.

Friday we worked hard all day. Very early in the morning we got the staysail hanked on….. The wind picked up so we left the genoa for another day.    Later on Richard went up the mast to check our rigging and give it a bit of a clean, and I painted new registration numbers on dink…..   We compiled a list for provisions for the forthcoming trip and we got the freezer working as a fridge. Unfortunately the fridge compressor wouldn’t start….so we had to get a refrigeration guy out to look at it.   Again it was a gas leak allegedly and he went away having fixed it pretty quickly. We must buy the gauges and the gas so that we can do this job ourselves in future – it happens every year – and these guys are always the most expensive!   Having got the fridge and freezer working we headed out for our first mammoth provisioning run……   Got the basics but very disappointed in some of the offerings – not helped by our lack of Dutch language skills!   Back on board, provisions stowed, and another early night after tea….

Saturday morning and we got up extra early to hank the genoa on…. Successfully achieved we returned to bed for a little while!   Then we were off out with a long list of stuff still to get – first stop Island Water World to order 40 foot of chain, a new secondary anchor, some shackles and Racor fuel filters.   And as we are such good customers they gave us a pretty good discount and are even delivering to us on the boat on Monday morning.   Our original secondary anchor is just a pile of rust now – and we’ve never actually deployed it ourselves – so wonder about the quality in the first place????!!!!????

Then we headed off to the posh Van der Twill supermarket to get the rest of the provisions….   Another disappointment….. Oh well – not sure what to do now!   But we stopped – on the off chance – at the discount place which is a bit like Costco and were surprised that we got everything else that we needed!!!   Pleased with ourselves we headed back and tried to find a place for everything – and I started cooking.   We will have Blaine on board to assist this passage as I’m not yet fully fit after my operation this summer – so it is meals for three and potentially a tough windward slog ahead.   I have decided to cook some decent meals that can be just taken from the freezer to the oven or the pressure cooker.   Managed to get two done – shepherds pie and cheese and bacon pasta bake – and into the freezer before bed time….   Another early night, although we did have a couple of beers first in the cockpit, fighting off the mosquitos!!!

This morning – Sunday – and I got up early and was cooking curry at 8 am!!!!   Richard still managed to taste it to check it was OK LOL.   The final prepared meal of lasagne was done and ready for the freezer by mid-morning. There is other food too – in fact, we might have gone a bit over board on the chocolate, haribos, and snack offerings – but plenty of other meal / lunch / dinner options if the passage takes longer or just gets plain boring…   A girl can dream can’t she!!!!????!!!!

While all this culinary magic was going on Richard was washing Morphie down from bow to stern – and then waxed her.

I ended up in dink going round the outside rail to finish off the stainless, as this was too dangerous up on the hard….

Finally all stainless finished and we hoisted dink up onto his davits in preparation for going to sea.   Phew…… finally we are almost ready…..  Doesn’t she look sparkling???

Sitting in the cockpit now having a well-earned beer and then another early night beckons….

Tomorrow afternoon Blaine arrives and we still have a few jobs to get done but we are almost there….. Looking forward to a couple of days off before hoping to set sail on Thursday – but obviously very weather dependent this far out….

Bye for now

Jan